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My understanding is that primer is generally used to provide a uniform surface on which to paint and promote adhesion of the topcoat. In my experience, the Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy is a pretty sticky paint in and of itself (I've read it's because of the epoxy part but can't confirm this). It usually needs a while to cure, since it air-cures, but once it does it's rather tough. My guess is that it would be fine without a primer underneath and adhere to the metal well enough. That being said, I've primed bare metal pieces I wasn't going to work with right away with self-etching primer before ultimately using appliance epoxy and they turned out great. One thing to watch out for is that Appliance Epoxy is UV reactive, meaning that it will eventually fade if directly exposed outside. This may be okay for the frame since a lot of it is hidden underneath other parts but for really exposed pieces I'd use a regular paint and clear with Spraymax 2k.
the black is better than the white for UV. it takes a long time to lighten, however the white will go yellow in a matter of weeks if left outside in direct sun. As for primer, you don't need it, but if like barnburner says you won't be painting right away it won't hurt to prime to protect from flash rust etc. The secret to a good expoxy paint job is prep and then don't touch it for 7-10 days so the paint can setup and fully cure/harden, if you start bolting bits on too soon it will come off etc.
I figured as much for the cure time, hoping to paint frame as soon as it is back from sandblasters. It'll give me time to get this motor put back together.
Just repeating what the other guys said... I used to build bumpers for jeeps... and we epoxy painted them. If you let it properly cure... they would take one hell of a beating.
Appliance paint isn't resistant to fuel, is it? My understanding is after a long cure, it can handle very short term exposure, but will eventually lift.
It's the most resistant rattle can I've ever seen. I painted my cb350 engine and an overnight fuel leak ruined the expensive por15 engine pains but the appliance epoxy was perfectly fine
It's the most resistant rattle can I've ever seen. I painted my cb350 engine and an overnight fuel leak ruined the expensive por15 engine pains but the appliance epoxy was perfectly fine
I was much less than happy with it. I still have half a quart sitting on my shelf 3 years later because I won't use it again.
I've been pretty happy with Eastwood engine paint
Check Kanticoy's Gretta build, the fork lowers on it are black expoxy and have held up for the last 5 years without any chips, fading etc. and he rides the bike, hard, and parks it at shows in the sun all day long. The black takes a long time to fade and auto wax helps protect it. the white and almond have the issue with UV a lot more.
man i just went through every pic i had of my TX, i first shot the Tins in appliance white, but then had to strip, and re body work it all as it yellowed so bad, but not one single pic of the yellow! sorry guys i checked everywhere
Joe, you had poated one once I thought cause it is your TX that reminded me the qhitw yellows fast LOL. Oh well I'll baxk ya up on it cause I remember you posting juat befire you redid it.
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