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I was wondering what most of you do with your cables and lines after you lower your handle bars.
I know I can order some custom length steel braided brake lines on e-bay or get them cut at a shop, but I was wondering how I can go about shortening my throttle and clutch cables.
Is it possible to cut them somehow or should I just live with the extra length?
I shortened my throttle cable and it broke on me and stranded me. I'm running a bicycle brake cable as my throttle cable now; they work great and you canget any bicycle shop to make them for you in any length for cheap. I'm still running with the long clutch cable though.
Shortening old cables is a bad idea... my experiences are just like Steves (except Hondas have two throttle cables and you can flip them to get home). Old cables are "seasoned" with grease, lubricants, and grime and will solder poorly. Only shorten brand new clean cables.
Oh, mine did but I tought it was ugly so I ditched the push cable and went with a motionpro throttle. I pushed it for about a mile; then I ended up steering with my pinkys and using my other fingers to hold and pull on the throttle cable.
If you go to Motion Pro, they will make your cables up to the size you want. just tell them the length, they are not cheap but they work very well.
carpy
There is probably a shop or two in your town that will make them for you. In Memphis we only have two, only one that does stainless. I don't know where you are, but call around to some of the shops that aren't dealers. If they don't, ask them who does. Motion Pro does make good cables. If you go with them, it's worth it to get the stainless. they look great and last forever.
I was just going to try and re-route my clutch cable with a few extra twists and turns to take up the slack, but I guess the extra turns caused a little too much friction and the barrel pulled off the cable at the lever end.
At that point I had nothing to lose, so I decided to try and shorten the cable myself.
Here's how I did it:
I cut the outer sheath to length, and cleaned the old grease off the inner cable as best as I could. I heated the barrel to melt out all of the old solder. The barrel has a hole in it for the cable to pass through and a groove machined into the side, perpendicular to the hole. I pulled the cable through the barrel to the proper length, then bent half of the strands of the cable into the groove on either side of the hole. Then I fluxxed the barrel and cable, heated with a propane torch and filled with solder (I used plumbing flux and solder). After the solder cooled, I trimmed the excess cable and cleaned up any solder from the outside of the barrel with a file.
So far it's holding fine (but I've only been "garage riding" )
I was about to have mine cut when I started to play around with them a little more. I removed the return cable completely but there was still major friction within the sheath for the pull cable. My roommate suggested rotating the metal elbow that protrudes from the hand throttle inwards towards the bike. Once I did that, it worked like a charm. Didnt even need to put the second cable back on....
my cables were tooooo long when i got the bike. and were really hard. then when i put clubmans on it was even worse. So what i did was figure a way to put them through stuff to make less slack. i have to say it worked well.
my cables were tooooo long when i got the bike. and were really hard. then when i put clubmans on it was even worse. So what i did was figure a way to put them through stuff to make less slack. i have to say it worked well.
Here in the frozen north(last night -30c,- 22f below zero )you can buy brass cable ends for all most every application as well as cable and the outer cable search www.motovan .com, euro spares has a good article on soldering the ends
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I'm running a bicycle brake cable as my throttle cable now; they work great and you canget any bicycle shop to make them for you in any length for cheap. I'm still running with the long clutch cable though.
