spark, clean carbs, good compression. SHE WONT START.

Pull the carbs off, check shut off valve tips are not damaged and there isn't any dirt in there, re-set float height +1mm.
If carbs come off easy it mean's your not running airbox, that will make tuning a little more difficult. In my experience you'll have to drop needle to 2nd from top groove, lifting it will make plugs wet even at idle
 
I think this is a problem. When I attach the light to the lead and the engine case, it stays lit no matter what. But when I attach it to the top half of the point, it turns on and off. From everything I've read, the light should be turning on and off when it is attached to the engine. Something is wired wrong here but I have no idea what.

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crazypj said:
Pull the carbs off, check shut off valve tips are not damaged and there isn't any dirt in there, re-set float height +1mm.
If carbs come off easy it mean's your not running airbox, that will make tuning a little more difficult. In my experience you'll have to drop needle to 2nd from top groove, lifting it will make plugs wet even at idle
right now I have pods on it for ease of removal. uni pods. not the cheap shit.

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You must have a short somewhere that is not allowing the points to function properly. Hard to tell with pics. Simply, points are just an on/off switch. Trace the circuit and find the short.
 
I think you have it wired wrong. There is no isolation between the wires the way you have it. Check this pic..

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Check this vid, the portion on points. The system needs to be isolated so that the circuit can be broken, otherwise the circuit will go straight to ground and not break when the points are open.

http://youtu.be/W94iksaQwUo
 
Heavies said:
Check this vid, the portion on points. The system needs to be isolated so that the circuit can be broken, otherwise the circuit will go straight to ground and not break when the points are open.

http://youtu.be/W94iksaQwUo
PERFECT. this was exactly what I'm looking for! You're a savior. I''ll get on it either tomorrow or Sunday.

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you said between 110 and 120 psi compression... not sure what your manual says but these old bike usually have >150 psi
my cb400t calls for 185+- 14

so a minimum of 161...
this could be your problem

right now i have 135 and 155 and it can hardly hit 35 mph
check a manual
 
90~120 is normal compression test when you 'forget' to hold throttle wide open
 
crazypj said:
90~120 is normal compression test when you 'forget' to hold throttle wide open
forget to hold the throttle wide open... I''ll be right back.

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Here's what it sounds like. The jingle are my janitor keys.

No start 2: http://youtu.be/_LjZ3Ur4trI

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One of your problems is the invisible wire between your knee and elbow. ::)
They don't like any throttle, cranking on it while kicking over will flood it.
You would be better off holding onto the switch housing
Give it full choke instead of half choke. As it is now, full throttle with fuel turned OFF will dry out the internals
 
crazypj said:
One of your problems is the invisible wire between your knee and elbow. ::)
They don't like any throttle, cranking on it while kicking over will flood it.
You would be better off holding onto the switch housing
Give it full choke instead of half choke. As it is now, full throttle with fuel turned OFF will dry out the internals

I was never meant to be a drummer haha and the fuel is on, I'm not that stupid! Pretty stupid, but not that stupid.
 
That's why I said turn fuel OFF.
Fill float bowls, turn fuel off, try starting
If it's flooding even slightly having fuel off will prevent plugs getting wet.
You turn fuel back on when it starts
 
And I should just do that over and over? wash rinse repeat?

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Pull a plug and see if it's dry.
If so, turn on gas, fill carbs, turn off gas, try again
If wet, full throttle, gas off, kick a bunch of times ;D
 
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