I had a really long day today. The quest was to overhaul the cooling system and wire up the manual override switch for the fan. It's tucked in neatly by the throttle so I can toggle it on in heavy traffic if the temperature starts to climb a little as the fan has a tendency not to come on from time to time.
I've got it all done but only just sat down. The thermostat tract was really bad and needed a good tidy up which took a large portion of the day. The tubes which run between the thermostat housing and the elbows looked like this:
After hitting them with a wire brush on a drill, soaking for 5-10 minutes in diluted rust converter then letting it dry (repeated this process 3 times) they came out looking much better:
I also think I found the fault which was causing the fan to cut in and out intermittently. I think this dodgy wire may possibly have had something to do with it....
Nevertheless it doesn't matter too much now as the override is in place, but I think I should go back in there at some point and replace it. I'll do that at the same time as replacing the sensor so that I can do away with the honda genuine plug and run fresh wire to the new connection.
This weld has broken too:
It shouldn't be too hard to solder up but I don't have the gear or the know how to tackle it. I reckon there'll be someone around who could help me out with this.
So the only hassle I had today was after everything went back in I realised I had two issues. The clutch cable was outside the radiator *headpalm* (but it's being held in place with the chrome shroud for now), and the left elbow in the cooling tract from the thermostat is leaking.
I have a vague recollection that the CX500 did this too when I did this fix a couple of years back and eventually it stopped as the o ring just needed to bite in and seal. As usual I used a liberal amount of KY jelly to help slide everything into place as well so this may be helping to cause the problem. For this reason I ran the bike for about five or so minutes then I parked it in the shed and came inside.
I'll run it again tomorrow and see if it's sealed up. If not I'll blame the o rings that came from the gasket set and go down to gardner bearings and buy some correct sizes. I had to pop the thermostat housing gasket in the fridge to get it to shrink back a little so it would fit as it was marginally too big so next time I won't be relying on these o rings. I'll buy the correct sizes individually instead.
For future reference the part numbers I used today were:
- Top and bottom radiator hose - Gates number 02-0031 (from repco) Ford EA falcon/fairmont 1988-89
- Radiator cap Repco brand RC50-13 (cross references to the CPC 543-13 radiator cap. In fact the repco one has CPC stamped on it)
- Dayco thermostat DT15A available from Repco.
- Castrol antifreeze/anti boil mix 50/50 with demineralised water
- The switch is a Narva 2 way toggle (part number 60290BL)