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By the photo, I'd pull the points off and polish the rust off of the point cam so it doesn't grind the phenolic point shoe off. Pull the airbox to make sure there is not a mouse nest in it. Then oil the cam oiler wick, set the point gap, and give her a kick. Don't be surprised to see some critter's winter stash fly out the exhaust if it starts.
+1. Yes just knock the shit off the contacts assuming you plan to replace them anyways.
and yes pull the shitty old air filter out and clean box. So it all don't get sucked in.
don't rev it too much as the advancer could be stuck.
Seriously? That motor was left without covers on for a long time to have that amount of rust and corrosion. around generator. Almost certainly had condensation if not actual water inside it. Personally I wouldn't attempt to start it until it had been in pieces to asses true damage. Although it's unlikely, having a tooth break off in transmission or on clutch because of rust wouldn't be any fun at all and a bearing breaking up would be 'less fun', if that is possible.As for some other questions, I just re-built 3 sets of CB350 carbs with various modifications Rust on points return spring - toss them and fit new ones. they will never work properly (unless you double up on the springs they will be weak after cleaning rust off,) I tried it some time in the 70's so know it's more trouble than it's worth
trek97 said:
The parked since 98, 400F took about 1-1/2 hours to get it started.
About the same for Piglet. Parked since 1978
400A Fired up with out too much fuss.
Fuel POURING out of all the carbs. lol
So keep fire extinguishers NEAR w pins pulled out. hahaha
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