stubborn crankcase cover bolts!!

w_ll

Active Member
The bolts on both sides of the crankcase covers are stuck!
They are Philips so I stripped most of them trying to break them loose.
I was able to get some loose using locking pliers but any ideas how to get the rest broken loose.
 
stubborn crankcase cover bolts!!

At this point you've made the problem worse for yourself. Your best bet is to get a nail set (flat punch) and flatten out the corners of the Phillips head until it's as good as you can get it. Then stick a #3 on an impact driver (yes, you MUST use an impact driver) and give it hell.
 
Werd on owning an impact driver! If you're going to replace your bolts, which is a good idea and dresses up your engine, just take a Dremmel (also and indispensable tool), and cut a slot across your f'd up bolt turning it into a standard slotted bolt.
 
I actually remever seeing that ad in a classic motorcycle magazine! It was an ad for JIS "cause Japanese bikes need Japanese tools!"
 
stubborn crankcase cover bolts!!

Pull the silly things and replace them with socket cap bolts from BoltDepot.com, cost me $15 to replace all my case bolts.
 
junk
250px-ImpactDriverWithBits.png

not quite junk
hand-impact_s.jpg

better if just because there is no adapter . true 3/8" not adapted down from 1/2"
Reversible%20Impact-Driver%20Set.jpg

the real deal . snap on and mac just cost more
DSC_0256.jpg


~kop
 
Just went through this on my cb360...I did the Dremel slotting trick. Worked pretty good. Ordered a set of stainless Allen head bolts of eBay.
 
For me the thing that has worked the best Is a 3/8 cordless impact gun with a bit and adapter. You have to make sure and keep pressure on it but it does the trick 95% of the time. Jess
 
In case i strip the bolts, i normally take a 5mm drill in the cordless drill and drill the bolt head around 8mm deep. Then again with a 6mm and the head of the bolt will pop right of. When cover is removed, you can take pliers and remove the rest of the screw, because there is no tension on it anymore.
 
I use an industrial grade screw gun. Not a drywall gun, but similar. They have an adjustable clutch, finely divided 0 to 100% grab, which is heavily influenced on how hard you push into the fastener, and how hard you squeeze the trigger. Since I started using it for getting out stubborn screws, I have had an absolutely 100% success removing screws - and all with absolutely zero damage! Some things (like tiny instrument face plate screws) don't like being smacked with a hammer, and this tool works especially well for delicate screws. These things are NOT intended for this, but I can not overstate how superbly they work for this task. They are very expensive, but worth it at least to me. The Black and Decker's are no longer available, which is why I show the rusty DeWalt, which can still be found new, which is of similar design and works well. The B&D's were made in three grades: Heavy Duty?, Professional, and Industrial. Industrial is what you want. See one in a flea market, get it! These things are a lifetime tool. I still have a few from commercial work, which is how they are so beat up, but I bet the one in the pic has had at least 4 trigger switches and 10 cords, and still kicks ass!
 

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Bobbed_out said:
Just went through this on my cb360...I did the Dremel slotting trick. Worked pretty good. Ordered a set of stainless Allen head bolts of eBay.

Use never-sieze on the threads. The SS will gall and corrode onto the aluminum case. You'll get them out, but the aluminum threads will come out with them....

Properly tighhtened, the bolts won't vibrate loose, despite the never-sieze
 
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