Stuck at last step of CB350 restomod - slipping forks

CuppaJoe

CuppaJoe

New Member
Hey guys - first off, thanks to the gents who have been so helpful and generous with their info in the suspension forum. This place is a wealth of info and I'm glad to be an active member here, after so many months of lurking.

I have completed everything I set out to do in our CB350 restoration, and am stuck on the last step. If you guys would be so kind as to help me get over this hump, I'd be really appreciative.

After a chat with DCC, I'd ordered some shorter clevis/eye shocks for the rear of the CB, and they went on smoothly, as well as perform nicely. I'm in need of lowering the front an in and a half to match the rear's drop.

I've chatted with other members on here and read every thread I can get my eyes on, about how to slip the forks up a bit. I've been told and am seeing the the upper and lower tree clamps must be loosened, slightly pried open, and the the forks will slip up.

After loosening all four points and applying pressure on the front end, they are not budging. I kinda of anticipated this since the bike's four decades old, hehe :)

Any ideas on how to get them to slide up? Soak with WD40? Tow strap the bike to the lift and then tighten down the front end even more? Remove the turn signal fork covers?

Areas in question (same for both fork sides) are as shown in the attached photo.

Thanks in advance, fellas!

20130714_171244.jpg
 
Get the bike on stands or an atv lift, something that will allow you to remove the front wheel.

Loosen the upper and lower tree bolts on one fork tube, and rotate the tube as you slide it up in the trees.

Tighten those bolts down when you've got the fork tube where you want it.

Do the same for the other side, and measure to make sure they're even.

Reinstall front wheel and axle.
 
Thanks, mate. This will come off as a total noob question, but does the wheel really need to come off? Should the forks slide up after the bolts are loosened? I'm curious how they wouldn't want to slide (if not seized with rust, grime) with all the load on them from the weight of the bike.

I've read that they should slide up without removing the wheel, but I totally understand it would be better to have it off and be able to rotate the forks upward.
 
What year is your 350?
If its 68 or 69 your forks won't slide through the trees.
If not, then grab ahold of your forks, move the gaiters down if you need to so you can grab them, and then twist and push upwards. They should move right on up.

Oh an put it on the center stand first and make sure the weight is on the tear wheel, may need to ratchet strap it to something. They won't slide easily with the bike weight on them, as they are at an angle that causes them to bind.

1.5" is a lot of drop....
 
It's a 73, so they'll slide up. Thanks for the tips, guys! Will report back on how it goes. This will be my first time removing a front wheel from a bike - but looks fairly straight-forward.
 
You can try hitting the steering stem nut or top triple with a rubber mallet. That always works for me.
 
To be perfectly honest, just sliding the tubes through isn't always the safest thing to do. It would be better to do something like in this video.

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/dropin/video.html

or this.

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7330
 
Thanks, DJ. I've talked with Progressive over the phone and they said there are no products for the CB350, which really surprised and bummed out, because I wanted to do this the "right" way, as opposed to slipping the forks.

The rider of this bike we've restored is 5'3 and needs a drop in seat height, in order to get her feet on the ground. The rear was taken care of by DCC shocks, but getting this front properly dropped is proving to be a major mystery because I've been told slipping the forks is fine, it's not fine, to get springs from Progressive, and also by Progressive themselves that that's not possible.

I'm all for a drop-in lowering kit which doesn't require dissasembly of the front end :) Any help as to parts which would work with the '73 CB350?

Our riding season is slipping through our hands and this is the last step until we can hit the open road together :D Help is GREATLY appreciated, guys.
 
Just got off the phone with Progressive and RaceTech. Both were excited to hear of the project and were very friendly but didn't have any springs to lower the front with. I'm waiting on a reply from Sonic Springs to see if they have anything.

The gent I spoke with at Progressive said I could use get together the stock spring dimensions, then order a comparable spring in terms of same diameter, but less length, and then swap in a different spacer at the bottom of the fork.

Anyone more experience with lowering CB forks want to chime in with how the rebound spring and space combo (removal?) works? I'm all ears :)

Thanks
 
Thanks, Sonic. Couple Qs -

1) Curious as to how many coils = roughly how many inches of drop, when cutting.

2) Spacer placement at the top of the spring between it and the fork cap? (ie: http://www.truckwithaheart.com/IMG_0987.JPG)
 
I have honestly never done it,
But heres a writeup for xs650's
http://www.thechopperunderground.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=34358&hl=justin+fork+legs

And also contact Forking By Frank and see what they can do for you:
http://www.frankmain.qpg.com/
 
Thanks, Sonic. I may slip the forks an inch for now and do the internal modifications this winter. Not my ideal course of action, but eventually arriving at the desired solution. I think I'll pick up a spare set of springs to chop up, JIC :)
 
if they are a standard telescopic fork, who dont you make a 1" spacer and put it under the dampner rod and lower them that way?

http://www.xs650chopper.com/2009/06/mulligan-machine-lower-your-xs650-forks-low-buck-garage-tech/
 
lowering the fork internally will take away from the travel of the fork, not really a great plan, you want to have full travel available. the forks will slide up, there's likely rust on the tubes under the gaiters and under the headlight ears, I'd try sliding them out first, cleaning them up, then sliding them back in and up the extra distance
 
nedmmo - thanks! I am thinking of going that route this week, after chatting with Rich from Sonic Springs who also recommended the same thing.

Roc City - yeah sounds like cleaning those up is a must-do. Do you think there'd be any dangers or ill effects in terms of handling/cornering from slipping them up 1 inch?
 
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