Stuck/Seized clutch on a 73 SL350?

honda53rider

honda53rider

77 XS400,73 SL350, 73 RD350
First of all thanks to everyone on the forum for your help and all of the inspiration I get from everyone's builds.

So here we go! I got a 1973 honda SL350 a few weeks back with a title for $200 It had been sitting in a shed for 9-10 years and only has a little over 4K on it. So I got it running just this afternoon after working through some funky electrical issues. I was surprised that after it started first kick and even idle after only going through the carbs and putting in some old gas I had laying around. So I kinda got ahead of my self and tried to see if it would run under power to test the clutch and gears. I got the brakes working as best i could then started it up. Pulled the clutch witch had very good feel like my buddy's CB350 that i used as a comparison sitting right beside the SL in the barn. So i pulled the clutch and kicked it down into first and to my surprise the bike jumped forward and i garbed as much brake as i could and the bike only got 2 feet before cutting out. I tried it two more times after adjusting the clutch and pulling the cover and removing the push rod and lubing it up with some 20w50. Still the bike jumped like I had not pulled the clutch in. So after thinking about it a lot I believe that the clutch plates are stuck together and pretty bad! Looking on forums everyone says that you should be able to free it by doing was doing unknowingly by shifting into first. So I would have to say that my clutch plates would be VERY stuck to take 4-5 clutch drops at around 2000-3000 RPM.

Im my head it makes sense that it would be the clutch plates are just stuck but I what to know what yall think. Neutral is a function of the transition, and the clutch plates can be engaged while in neutral and the motor and rear wheel will still roll freely witch would let me start the bike in neutral right? This is what im looking for some ones advise on. 1. am i right that the clutch plates are stuck together? 2. Can that clutch still be used after dissemble and a good cleaning and sanding of the clutch friction pads?



Other info- the SL350 has the same motor as the CB and CL350's so they should use the same clutch so if anyone knows about the CB or CL clutch that would be a grate help!

As of now its late so tomorrow I am going to pull the side cover and look at the clutch, from what iv read you need an impact to get the whole clutch assemble off the bike witch I don't have up at school so idk how far ill get with it tomorrow but ill have to see!

Thanks for the help!
 
You can try pulling the cover off and taking the clutch apart. I had a similar problem with my 360. I'd drained the oil out of the engine and let things sit for about a year while I was working on other areas. When it came time to start the bike up again, the clutch was stuck. I ended up putting the front wheel up against the side of the shop and kicking it down into first gear with a few revs on the tach. Worked right away.

Assuming you're not pressed for time, I still suggest taking the clutch apart, though.
 
no impact needed for the clutch
clutch plates are the same as cb/cl but not the clutch or lower cases
do not ride the bike with 10 year old brake shoes !
get new brake shoes
 
Thanks for the fast responce! And yes Im going to pull the side cover off. Im in no big time crunch iv got another bike to ride while working on this one. And the oil needs to be changed anyway. So looks like im going to be pulling it all apart and cleaning it up and giving it a good soak in oil. Any tips on cleaning the plates?

And yes im not going to "ride" im only in a 20' long barn that is filled with 10' of motorcycles kayaks and other crap. But I was going to make shore I could get the bike in gear and feel the clutch out to see if there were any issues like I am having.
 
you can gently sand the plates on a really flat surface
glass beads or media blasting works nicely on the steels as well
clean out the filter trap while you are in there
soak the frictions in oil before assembly
 
Sounds good! going to head out and get some work done after the mercury get above 35 haha! But hey its good to get work done on the days that I cant ride!

Thanks for the help!
 
i have 2 sl350 parts motors and an frame and other bits(kickstart only sl) so if you got broken shit hit me up
 
Thanks I will! all looks good right now the only things im going to need to replace are the regular thins like brakes and cables.

Well Just got the clutch off the bike witch was a scary easy to do! must be a Honda thing haha. But just wanting to see what im supposed to sand?
I know there are 2 types of disc in the clutch the inner metal disc and the outer ones that have the brake like material on them. Just want to make shore I get this right since its my first time in a clutch.
Also the bike now moves freely in gear and the clutch spin's when i rock the bike back and forth. So it have to be the clutch with im surprised to say was not "stuck" i am able to pull all the plates apart easy with my hands but they were sticky witch I think is just apart of the oil covering them.

But im going to put them in some 20w50 to soak all night and go from there
 
if the frictions are glazed over you can ruff them up use 100-180 grit just gently, on a piece of flat glass
dont go removing a bunch of material just break tthe glaze
same with the steels if minorly rusted
 
Well i got it all back together! before starting the bike I tried to roll it in gear with the clutch pulled. After a little rocking I got the back end rolling but by no means "free." So then I went ahead and started the bike and I let it run for a little and get some heat in it. Then pulled the clutch and dropped it into first. I felt the bike move forward a little but then it stopped and the bike kept running. So from there I worked the clutch a little and held the bike from moving while letting the clutch slip. After I did this for a little I cut the bike off and tried rolling the bike in gear with the clutch pulled. This time it was much easier but still not perfect. So i guess ill try and work the clutch more tomorrow and hope that improves with time.

Thanks for all the help guys! I love it when I can get something fixed without spending tons of $ to do so!
 
HI, I am hoping someone will pick up on this question after reading through this thread and a couple of other ones. I recently finished rebuilding my 1971 CL 350 engine and had installed new friction disks for the clutch. I have been having trouble now getting the clutch adjusted correctly. I can get it to be either fully engaged or fully disengaged but not quite to the "sweet spot" so that my clutch lever will work correctly? I have read that in some clutch rebuilds one soaks the friction disks in what ever fluid normally lubricates the clutch (in wet clutch designs of course) before repacking the disks in the clutch basket. Is this something I missed doing with my clutch? Thanks in advance for the help. Greg
 
i have heard some aftermarket frictions can be sticky
yes it is recommended to soak them in oil
have you got it all adjusted correctly ? is it slipping? if not ride it around for a bit get it nice and hot let the plates suck up oil see what happens then
 
Thanks for the response. I did not soak them and don't remember seeing that step mentioned in the honda service manual for the bike. I have not actually ridden the bike yet as this was a total resto / mod project starting with a bike that probably had not run in many years. I am still trying to get the carbs adjusted correctly also. I was hoping to get the clutch adjusted fairly well before hopping on and heading down the road for the first time with it.
 
as long as you have it assembld correctly and adjusted correctly it should be fine take it out and ride it around in a parking lot if you have to to get it hot
 
Mine is still sticking after sitting for a day or two. But now it will brake loose when I drop it into first with some revs. I rode it a good little bit over Christmas brake so im waiting to get back home and see it its still sticking.

I also got a RD350 over Christmas and it has a seized clutch (as well as seized pistons) Did the same process as the SL and works grate!
 
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