Testing coils - results are in

snmavridis

Gettin my life together. One bolt. At a time.
And I don't know what's wrong. Now that I have your attention, if you've seen any of my build posts you know my bike doesn't want to start. I rebuilt and rerebuilt my carbs, I commissioned work on my carbs twice, and so i don't think it's a gas issue. I tested compression and got readings between 110-140, not TOO BAD for a bike that's been sitting a while. So compression isn't on my radar.

It's gotta be electrical. So I tried to redo my points and ran into issues. I'll post a link to that thread if you're interested. Which got me saying "screw it lets redo the wiring harness, test the electronics and go from there".

First test is if my coils work properly. I plan on doing the bench test sonreir has so elegantly laid out in the sticky, but I figure try the easy route first with a multimeter. Continuity between the leads on each coil seems alright. Attached are the results. When I attach the multi to the lead and spark plug cap I get no reading. I've tried every combination of each of the four leads, each of the spark plug caps, and every setting on the multi. Keeps giving me a null reading.

Are my coils messed up or am I an idiot?

8f649838d5a81548971e035a81977b57.jpg


305dc5c6998e71835aecdd7aabeb37e1.jpg
 
Points and all the frustration

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=59409.0
 
110k ohms. That can NOT be right. Now my question is, symptom or problem? Would there be any reason why one of these is so bummed out? Or is this just normal wear and tear?
 
pop the rubber boot off and take them apart

here

http://cx500forum.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Servicing_the_Sparkplug_Caps

get a few 3/16 brass machine screws cut pieces of the screws to replace the resistors with and toss the resistors

bet you find one corroded and burnt connection

a little dielectric grease does not hurt
 
Sonreir said:
That's a pretty high reading. About 5,000Ω is the standard.
I figured as much. Would there be any reason why they went bad? Are my coils burning them out? Could it be a mismatch with plugs? I've never dealt with spark plug cap issues before. My only guess would be that too much current caused degradation in the cap. And if that's so, how would I find out? OR is this just something that happens over time?

Edit to clarify that I know WHY they have that reading, I just want to know if there's an underlying reason that led to this problem and if I should address it.
 
cxman said:
pop the rubber boot off and take them apart

here

http://cx500forum.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Servicing_the_Sparkplug_Caps

get a few 3/16 brass machine screws cut pieces of the screws to replace the resistors with and toss the resistors

bet you find one corroded and burnt connection

a little dielectric grease does not hurt
Honestly, I'll take it apart just to see what's inside, but I'm just going to replace them with new SYMMETRICAL units. I get the whole "built not bought" ethos, but damn. They're only $10! Haha

I would also like to point out that I'm overly excited because I've been trying to find the issues in my ignition system for a long time, so this is quite a milestone in this project.
 
they are not supposed to be symetrical

the inside one on a 4 are shorter so you can get them on and off easy from under the gas tank

if you put long ones there it will be a pain (burn your hand) to get them off
 
cxman said:
they are not supposed to be symetrical

the inside one on a 4 are shorter so you can get them on and off easy from under the gas tank

if you put long ones there it will be a pain (burn your hand) to get them off
And this is why I am part of this wonderful forum. I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the heads up! Regardless, new caps will be ordered.
 
snmavridis said:
I figured as much. Would there be any reason why they went bad? Are my coils burning them out? Could it be a mismatch with plugs? I've never dealt with spark plug cap issues before. My only guess would be that too much current caused degradation in the cap. And if that's so, how would I find out? OR is this just something that happens over time?

Edit to clarify that I know WHY they have that reading, I just want to know if there's an underlying reason that led to this problem and if I should address it.

Poor materials and/or weather proofing, and/or just time taking its toll. Hardly any current at all passes through the cables, so there's no where near enough amperage to cause any wear and tear on the parts.
 
Sonreir said:
Poor materials and/or weather proofing, and/or just time taking its toll. Hardly any current at all passes through the cables, so there's no where near enough amperage to cause any wear and tear on the parts.
Fantastic. I will proceed with peace of mind then.
 
cxman said:
they are not supposed to be symetricalthe inside one on a 4 are shorter so you can get them on and off easy from under the gas tankif you put long ones there it will be a pain (burn your hand) to get them off



Actually, they might be the wrong caps because on most DOHC bikes it's the other way round - the inside 2 are longer so you can grab the caps without burning your hand inside the cam tunnel.....and the outer ones are shorter so they don't stick out the side of the motor so much.



 
Two of each it is! I'll figure out properly placement while burning my hands! Woo hoo!
 
if i have had enough coffee to have my eyes open i will look when i get on my cb900
 
Back
Top Bottom