He did a beautiful job. I need to do some work to clean up the edges on the windows in the piston and also need to make a port map to figure out what he did.teazer said:Arctic Cat ZRT Thundercat would be my guess. Funny that it looks just like one that might be bolted to a Kawasaki 750 triple.
Is There enough metal to make the transfers a bit wider without adding a second pair of ports? I like those wide boost ports though. Very nice work by someone.
Doug said just to match his work. Split the cases. Being conservative and keeping the port velocity up.Measure the port time-areas and see what's up. The high boost ports must be so that they open early when the piston is still close to or at BDC and a little above. Check when they open the boost ports. They are probably close to the regular transfer time.
I have seen additional ports behind the main transfers, but that assumes a lot of welding or JB weld/DEVCON or thick enough stock barrels. It might have been possible to widen the transfer outlets but lose gas veolocity if the bottom end of the duct wasn't opened up as well. There looks to be enough meat there to go a little closer to the edge.
But that looks a whole lot better than stock.
German accent hands waving “don’t need the flywheel” No we are not generating but going total loss.Reluctor may get in the way, but you could simply add an adapter bolted to the flywheel with a hex milled onto it the same way that they used to do with Kart adaptations of the TD3/TZ250 with Hitachi self generating ignitions. I can send you a picture if that helps.
You could also just fit an HPI self generating set and fir a programmable CDI. Do you need that flywheel as a flywheel or do you use it to generate 12v? If it's not generating power and you use a super light RC type LiPo battery, you could machine a new flywheel with a hex on it and with the reluctor whatever size you need it to be to work with the pickup.
Or machine a spare crank left side for a left hand thread.