Texas Two Step Taco

teazer

Well-Known Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
Arctic Cat ZRT Thundercat would be my guess. Funny that it looks just like one that might be bolted to a Kawasaki 750 triple.

Is There enough metal to make the transfers a bit wider without adding a second pair of ports? I like those wide boost ports though. Very nice work by someone.
 

Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
teazer said:
Arctic Cat ZRT Thundercat would be my guess. Funny that it looks just like one that might be bolted to a Kawasaki 750 triple.

Is There enough metal to make the transfers a bit wider without adding a second pair of ports? I like those wide boost ports though. Very nice work by someone.
He did a beautiful job. I need to do some work to clean up the edges on the windows in the piston and also need to make a port map to figure out what he did.

He is use to the Astro and I think it has a second pair of transfer ports but He told me we were limited because I have small transfers...story of my life. :) I need to see how they mate up because I was also surprised that the didn’t make them larger. Maybe we can figure out why. I am sure he has his reasons. Do you have to keep the port velocities up with the transfers?

What did you think about how high the windows are in the piston and maybe can shed some light on why?


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teazer

Well-Known Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
Measure the port time-areas and see what's up. The high boost ports must be so that they open early when the piston is still close to or at BDC and a little above. Check when they open the boost ports. They are probably close to the regular transfer time.

I have seen additional ports behind the main transfers, but that assumes a lot of welding or JB weld/DEVCON or thick enough stock barrels. It might have been possible to widen the transfer outlets but lose gas veolocity if the bottom end of the duct wasn't opened up as well. There looks to be enough meat there to go a little closer to the edge.

But that looks a whole lot better than stock.
 

Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Measure the port time-areas and see what's up. The high boost ports must be so that they open early when the piston is still close to or at BDC and a little above. Check when they open the boost ports. They are probably close to the regular transfer time.

I have seen additional ports behind the main transfers, but that assumes a lot of welding or JB weld/DEVCON or thick enough stock barrels. It might have been possible to widen the transfer outlets but lose gas veolocity if the bottom end of the duct wasn't opened up as well. There looks to be enough meat there to go a little closer to the edge.

But that looks a whole lot better than stock.
Doug said just to match his work. Split the cases. Being conservative and keeping the port velocity up.

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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Took us over a year but had to build another building for our frame jig. Going back to the original body work and colors.
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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Now that we have some room and a level table we checked the motor mounts and they were all within a .5 of a degree of being on plane. The rear axle was 1.6 degrees out of plane because the shock mounts weren’t in plane with the engine mounts so we fixed that on the Bultaco Montadero frame.
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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Frame jig is modular and the little mill that could drilled over 240 5/8” holes 2” OC
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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
A little catching up...Zeke worked for Ducati this past summer and can do Desmo services now. He broke a cylinder stud on his 900ss trying to keep up with his old man...JK however we did notice it after a ride. He spent the summer rebuilding his engine and installing some new cases his bike is in fine form for our grudge match.
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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Removing all the bearings and soaking them in mineral spirits.
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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Working on solving the remote driver for a hand held electric starter on the Bultaco Montadero drag bike build. Any thoughts? Also adding a reluctor to the back of the rotor for the Zeeltronic electronic ignition.


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teazer

Well-Known Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
Reluctor may get in the way, but you could simply add an adapter bolted to the flywheel with a hex milled onto it the same way that they used to do with Kart adaptations of the TD3/TZ250 with Hitachi self generating ignitions. I can send you a picture if that helps.

You could also just fit an HPI self generating set and fir a programmable CDI. Do you need that flywheel as a flywheel or do you use it to generate 12v? If it's not generating power and you use a super light RC type LiPo battery, you could machine a new flywheel with a hex on it and with the reluctor whatever size you need it to be to work with the pickup.

Or machine a spare crank left side for a left hand thread.

Or.......
 

Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Reluctor may get in the way, but you could simply add an adapter bolted to the flywheel with a hex milled onto it the same way that they used to do with Kart adaptations of the TD3/TZ250 with Hitachi self generating ignitions. I can send you a picture if that helps.

You could also just fit an HPI self generating set and fir a programmable CDI. Do you need that flywheel as a flywheel or do you use it to generate 12v? If it's not generating power and you use a super light RC type LiPo battery, you could machine a new flywheel with a hex on it and with the reluctor whatever size you need it to be to work with the pickup.

Or machine a spare crank left side for a left hand thread.

Or.......
German accent hands waving “don’t need the flywheel” No we are not generating but going total loss.

Well when you have 150hp plus you don’t need a flywheel.


However, this bike didn’t want to go with the lighter flywheel before. So we will do both!


Really like machining the left hand thread on the crank idea...or we can machine two channels in the rotor opposite of each other and use a notched socket like the honda tool on the 175 oil nut. Like you said options.

Still have the CDI and have machined the correct taper in the rotor. That would be super light! Need to machine a key way in the rotor. Another option.

Ralf agrees with you on making the combo starter nut and reluctor and he whipped out a prototype in 2 minutes. That guy is so talented!

Haven’t forgot about your prior post about checking the port timing. I did do a port map and the exhaust port duration is almost identical to the original Bandido, transfers were the same location and size in the cylinders but a lot larger than before coming into the cases....but the boost ports are a thing of beauty.

Back to the rotor. Last night machined off the cam on the rear shaft of the rotor
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that opened the points and am making a reluctor to press fit on the rear shaft of the rotor.

After cleaning all the bearings in mineral spirits discover they were horrible! Flat spots etc. Bought all new bearings yesterday for the engine but am thinking about getting the micro blue bearings. Sending them an email tomorrow to get pricing. Would be nice to beat Zeke with my small transfers and micro...













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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
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Called ARP and they spent an hour with me getting the correct studs,length, threads. They reminded me that my bike is dangerous.
 

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