Yes it was just on the pipe before it hit the rev limiter. The flat track guys are running 21 degrees. 2.5-2.7mm BTDCCool. Dogs probably feel threatened by the bark of the big dog. I'd have thought it'd be only just barely getting into the powerband at 6300.. the rev range might go up a tad as you dial in the jetting and get more heat into the pipe. Timing should be very close.
Ignore it, it's just another distraction. It'll get hotter than ideal but there's not much you can do about it apart from directing a good strong airflow over it while it's on the dyno. Listen for det (though it'll be hard with no silencer). On the dyno I run some 3" flex from the pipe through a truck muffler that quietens it down and takes the noise away somewhat. It's quiet enough that I can hear detonation with earmuffs on. With the air cooled motor in the Metralla on the street I used a fairly big silencer and even though it was still pretty loud any det was audible.What CHT should we be looking to avoid?
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Now I get to tell Zeke he was right...well he wants to be a mechanical engineer.There's a shallow recess around the bearing boss as well as in the back face of the hub. It looks like you may be able to fit a thin retainer plate that covers the outer race and attaches via screws to the basket. You might want to use some Loctite 620 as well. It's fixable.
We could do that but we would have to go to a thinner bearing or machine the rear housing for the clearance since the bearing currently sits flush with the housing. Another good option. Thank you.Why not machine a groove in the clutch hub and install a ring clip? With a ring clip, you could even run a thrust bearing.
Correct the bearing stays in place. The basket is moving. You and Ralf have the same approach. Ralf suggested a brass washer between the basket and the case. I would think it would need a roller since the basket is machining the gear for the shift selector. However the washer would be bathed in oil. BTW you are thinking like a German Mechanical Engineer!How about a different approach.
I am assuming that the bearing isn't moving. The basket is moving towards the crankcase.
Can you machine whatever is behind the clutch basket to fit a roller thrust washer to stop the basket (and gear) from moving inward. There is an existing flat surface fir the thrust bearing to ride against in the basket, so all it needs is enough space for the inner face and the bearing.
On older Suzukis there is a hardened washer either side of the equivalent to that bearing which is a long bronze bush. That is enough to stop things moving - most of the time because they act like thrust washers and contain/retain the basket laterally. When they changed to straight cut primary gears they kept those thrust washers.
A more involved solution could include a pair of back to back gears cut in different directions to eliminate side thrusts, but that would have to be the most complicated and expensive way to fix the issue.
It looks like AJR changed the clutch design when they came up with the straight cut primaries to include a roller bearing plus an inner thrust plate. It might be possible to use this part https://ajrmotocicletas.es/epages/c...950-45ce-8ec9-2ca023feb311/Products/AJ5000074 with slight modification.
I can’t wait to tell Zeke!That must be because I'm a mechanical engineer and had an Austrian great grandfather..........
Ralph is obviously a very smart guy if he thinks the same way as me..... two very stable geniuses perhaps
OK, so back to our normally scheduled program. Look at a way to add a thrust washer and let's get this show on the road.