The cafe' build begins!r

Just a little up date need new forks and mocked up the bike a little
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So I attempted to make my seat today I guess it's not that bad what do you guys thing
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or should I have the top piece ???
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Back to the compression question.

4 strokes and Brits calculate compression ratio that way and it's also called static or uncorrected. That number is typically 10:1 through 11:1 maybe a little more or less. On older bikes closer to 9:1 or less. The Japanese started to calculate compression ratio on 2 strokes from the point at which the exhaust port closes and that gives a much lower number typically in the 6:1 to 7:1 range. That is sometimes known as corrected CR.

In the real world neither is perfectly accurate, and neither measures the effective compression ratio. On a 2 stroke at low speed, the corrected number is close to reality. When it's on the pipe/in the powerband/screaming, a decent pipe will actually over fill the cylinder and the effective or equivalent CR might be up at 14-16:1.

7:1 is quite high though for any 2 stroke.
 
Shall we start on "volumetric efficiency"?
Or other words, how efficient you engine is at achieving it's actual volume. After all, it's basically an air pump... theroretically if you can get it's actual full air charge to match it's true volume, calculating it's bore and stoke. (3.142 x radius2 x bore) you are perfect.
In real life if you can get an engine to achieve anything over 90% V.E. you're doing good. a VE over 95% is excellent. ;)
 
Thanks man and how do I go about getting this oxidized dirt off my rim I can get it off I've tried break cleaner and corrosion x any thoughts ? Please
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Looks pretty pitted to me by the pics. 4 ought (0000) steel wool would be the best way to see if it is going to come clean. Maybe dampened in a little ATF. It won't scratch the alloy as much as the crud it removes will, so keep rolling over the steel wool to use a clean section... and use it in one direction only as much as possible.
 
I think the little 14 oz HF spot blaster was $9.99, I fill it with baking soda ( don't tell my wife I take it from her pantry and use it on little things like carburetor bodies etc. Works surprisingly well.... Next time I am in a store that carries some, I will pick up a small qty of commercial grade soda :) .

 
Thanks deanJ and what do you guys think of these forks and what size are they. 97 suzuki gsxr750
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Or these.89 SUZUKI GSXR 750 FORKS
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Thanks
-Jarron- :)
 
Hoosier Daddy said:
Shall we start on "volumetric efficiency"?
Or other words, how efficient you engine is at achieving it's actual volume. After all, it's basically an air pump... theroretically if you can get it's actual full air charge to match it's true volume, calculating it's bore and stoke. (3.142 x radius2 x bore) you are perfect.
In real life if you can get an engine to achieve anything over 90% V.E. you're doing good. a VE over 95% is excellent. ;)
what psi would I be looking for around 90-95% VE


Thanks
-Jarron- :)
 
GS450 and 550 forks, along with the GN are all 35mm. I'm planning a fork swap on my GN to GS450 to extend the trail a bit.

-Deek
 
Not sure yet, actually. The GS550 look to be the shortest, GS450 next and the GN are 32.5" I'm looking for something in the 29 to 30 inch range myself.

-Deek
 
From memory, GS450 forks are around 30" from the axle center to the top of the upper tube. Be careful with GS450 forks though: the early years used 33mm forks while later years used 35mm IIRC.

GS550 forks are probably 31.5"...... I have a set of GR650 forks that are that length as well. To the OP: I haven't read the last couple pages and might have missed it, but try to get a front end that will bolt right into your frame. Usually isn't too hard with Suzuki's, but I've never worked on a TS either.
 
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