the Hunley or, pidjones needed a retirement project

pidjones

Well-Known Member
Brodie said:
Projects wouldn't be a challenge without the issues. Pity the battery didn't sort it out. I wonder if the charged battery was just a bit to far gone to give the amps needed to turn the motor around.
I wish, but it is a brand new battery (although I might take it to get tested still). The GL1000 starters have a history with this apparently. There are rebuild instructions and videos, so.... Not a real hard job, just that it has to be on the kickstand to remove/install so the cog stays in the chain and doesn't fall into the motor. I've got the wheels back on it temporarily, and I'll have the wife steady it for me while I jack it up a bit to pull the furniture dolly out from under it. I'm just pumped that I got a few pops out of it! I've never heard it run, and I've owned it for over five years.
 

Maritime

Well-Known Member
Don't rebuild. the cases warp with use and age and the rebuild has the same issues in a few months. Brand new are available I'll dig out the link. I used one and 10 other members here have, CXman sent me the link when my starter shit the bed on me.
 

Maritime

Well-Known Member
Here it is, it says 1100 but they are the same for the 1000.

https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/honda-gl-1100-gold-wing-starter-gl1100-80-81-82-83-goldwing.html
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
I use the DB Electric starters for the GL and the BMW airheads. Good products and cheap.
 

pidjones

Well-Known Member
Well, The starter is out, cleaned up, and back in. Took about an hour once the wife helped me take the bike off the furniture dolly. Left header, shifter, cable, 2 bolts and out. Three screws and apart. One more screw and the brush assembly is free. Commutator looked awful - not identifiable as copper and very pitted. Chucked it in the lathe and spun it with 500 followed by 1200 then 7000 grit using isopropyl as a flushing fluid. Looks nice now. cleaned it up, greased the gearbox (barely had a touch of lithium grease in it) and assembled. Spins nice. Bolted back in and click click from solenoid. Straight shot with a jumper cable and the engine spins right over, so solenoid is on order. Not really surprised. Electrics don't like being under water.
 

Jimbonaut

Well-Known Member
DTT SUPPORTER
Alright! Swear to God, the sound of a bike starting up for the first time is the best sound in the world
 

pidjones

Well-Known Member
Pulled the tach apart and lubed with silicone spray that I once used on RC helicopters. It is very thin and very slick, and thins other lubricants it mixes with. The tach had been very sluggish and was obviously not indicating correctly. I think I have it fixed now. Pulling that apart was tedious, but putting it back together wasn't that hard. I have to admit that I practiced first on an old speedometer that I have and it was much harder the first time. After testing the tach with my battery drill and remounting it, I mounted up the mufflers that I bought for the bike. I used fiberglass cloth that I doped with high temp copper RTV for the gasket between the muffler and header end. For a clamp I used the clamp that was on the original Honda muffler. Pictures to come after I mount the saddle (which I won't get until next week).
 

pidjones

Well-Known Member
Got her out and did a quick ride up and down the road. Still way out of tune, doesn't like to be bogged (most 'wings love it) and the right front brake is dragging bad. Never got it past 2nd, but shifting was smooth that far (the worst shift on a GW). Brakes were very weak, but starting to bed in already. Worst was the front drag which even makes it hard to move around in the garage, so I'll pull that caliper tomorrow and see if I can free it up. I made sure the return hole was open when I rebuilt the master, and it is just that right caliper. I'm sure there is more carb balancing to do, but I was pretty pleased. It idles well, which is a nice thing.
 

Attachments

pidjones

Well-Known Member
Maritime said:
Thanks. I was atgatt as well. That s why i only have some bruises not broken bits
It sure helps! Two years ago, I had a get-off of my GL1800 at a little under 50 mph in the center lane of 3 in Knoxville on I-40. Lots of soreness and destroyed my gear (insurance replaced it all with new), but I only had a cracked wrist process. No blood, EMS and ER were amazed.
 

Maritime

Well-Known Member
I remember reading that. If it wasn't for the deer being pinned between bike I would have only had a broken pinky finger and some bruises when I got hit. damn animal had to go and crush my lower leg, although I got higher better boots since just in case LOL.
 

pidjones

Well-Known Member
Painted shelter and side covers today (Duplicolor Dark Emerald Green Metallic). Side covers came out good, a little orange peal that I hope will sand out. Shelter covers developed bad boogers. Must have been a bit of enamel that I had sanded through the primer to. It will probably all have to come off and be redone. Might just rattle-can them with black lacquer for the summer. This may have been the last low humidity day until fall. Parts for upper brake line were shipped today. Not planning to ride it anymore until the front brakes work. So far a grand total of 2.5 miles!
 

Maritime

Well-Known Member
Too bad on the booger paint, I hate that, I painted mine 3 f'n times because I used the wrong painters tape. It can be fun getting the front brakes right. I upgraded to a mid 90's CBR master and braided lines, after that they bled and work much better than before.
 

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