timing cb350 twin, spell it out

[liam]

ok, i've run into issues, i've timed this bike once before, and it worked, since then i've dismantled the head and lapped the valves and then reassembled, so it's possible i messed something up in the assembly which is making this harder.
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having difficulty getting the timing right now though, at least i think it is the timing that is causing the non starting.
battery is charged,
plugs are sparking,
fuel lines have been replaced and plenty of fuel is getting to the carbs,
compression feels solid, twice as good as it was before.

i'll run through the timing process i tried today, an if anyone can spot what i'm doing wrong, point it out please.
-rotating engine anticlockwise via crank bolt, till LF passes mark on firing stroke
-timing light connected to left point and ground
-rotate crank clockwise till light comes on, which is currently about a centimetre to the right of LT
-points plate is rotated all the way to the right, though to get light to come on at LF i think it theoretically needs to be rotated further right.
-have tried removing points cam and rotating 180deg, but that did not help,

have i assembled something else wrong? i'm at a loss, feels like this is the last hole in the puzzle and i lost the piece

 

[liam]

thanks. that sounds like it will work, makes perfect sense. brilliant!

 

[Aaron_CB360]

having the same issue, any help would be awesome.

 

[rockcitycafe]

the process should be done as follows:

set points gap to .012-.016" on each point, do this at the points most open point, don't worry too much about making sure it's absolutely perfectly 100% the most open it can get, points go open and stay at about the same openness for about 180 degrees.

now, check the left point, rotate the crank counterclockwise until the points open, this should happen at exactly LF mark, loosen screws and move plate until this happens dead on. do the same for the right point, except look for the F mark, to adjust when the points open, you need to actually change the gap on the right point, do so until the right point opens at exactly F, now go back and check your gap for both points, if they're not in the .012-016" range, then you may need to set the gap higher or lower than that range to affect the end result gap and timing... it's a pain in the ass...

now, if you're doing it with a timing strobe (recommended), do the same thing with the engine running, except make sure the strobe is firing between the two advance marks for that cylinder when the engine is revved, do the same for the right, this will ensure your engine is running properly at full advance (when it's actually making power)