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Can anyone recommend any good smokless 2 stroke oil? And is there any real improvement on the smoke? heard good things about the PJ1 Silverfire, but wanted to hear what you guys think. And secondly, I was thinking permanantly removing my auto oiling system from my 72' Zuk GT380 and just manually mix everytime I fill up. Auto oilers reliable or crap?
The GT series two-strokes use pressurized oiling directly to the main bearings, so you actually CAN'T remove the autolube feature on those bikes. Not to worry though, because as long as it's adjusted properly it is a very good system. I used Torco smokeless ashless two-stroke oil in my GT380 and was perfectly happy.
The GT series two-strokes use pressurized oiling directly to the main bearings, so you actually CAN'T remove the autolube feature on those bikes. Not to worry though, because as long as it's adjusted properly it is a very good system. I used Torco smokeless ashless two-stroke oil in my GT380 and was perfectly happy.
When I purchased my bike it was missing the oil tank, so I just mixed the oil/gas and poured it into the gas tank. The bike seemed to run fine... Oil pump and oil lines are all still there, I just plugged the main feed line from the tank. Do you think this would cause a problem if I left it this way and continued to mix myself?
... I started tearing the motor apart lastnight because im rebuilding for my rebuild... lol Anyhow, the cylinder walls were as smooth as glass and the bike only has about 5k orig miles on it. Ill post up some pics in my build thread this weekend of the motor and some side case polishing that i've been doing. Did you ever find any pics of your 380?!?!
I used Yamalube 2 stroke oil. Highly recomended by the local vintage dirt bike racers. My RD loved the Yamalube, and I never had a problem with the auto oiler. My GT550 liked Yamalube as well, although I never had it streetable. Just bench started with it's oil tank, again no problems with the auto oiler.
When I used to run a 490 Maico Spider and some Bultacos back in the eighties, I used BelRay MC1 in it and you could not tell the exhaust from that of a four-stroke. My cousin on his yz490 Yamaha left a trail of thick smoke through the fields and woods wherever he went, you could follow him even if he was ahead out of sight! The BelRay could be mixed as thin as around 70:1 or thinner, but I stayed at around 50:1 mix because I cared about my engine having lots of lube, and it did not seem to make any difference in power for clowning around fields and woods.
All Suzuki triples cranks have an oil slinger around the main bearings to direct oil into the con rod. It's steel shield that stops oil just leaking out of the mains and directs it where it has to go.
If the pump is missing, those shields act to stop oil mist getting to the big ends and under stress/over time they WILL fail.
What I do as a quick and dirty test is to remove the pump and fill the lines with a different colored oil (doesn't matter much what type - as long as it's a different color) Then refit the pump and bleed it and run teh motor with the pump cranked wide open. Or take it for a short run. Check teh oil lines and they should all be the same color as the oil in the tank. If one or more lines are still full of that prime oil, something needs to be cleaned.
If the motor is out or stripped, connect a short length of clear tube to the oil pump inlet and fill it with oil. Turn the pump shaft with the lever in teh FULL position and see if oil comes out of the outlets.
Then clean out the lines and check valves carefully. Don't use high pressure air - it will destroy the one way check valves.
Refit everything, prefill the oil lines, bleed the pump and be happy. Use any modern two stroke INJECTOR oil. Injector oil is thinner than pre-mix oil as a rule and stay away from PWC or snowmobile oils.
Thanks for all the input guys! Last night i pulled the oil pump off and all lines, Teazer I'll clean/check what you said to do and just so i'm clear, did you say that running the bike with a bad/clogged oil pump will not immediately start to damage the motor because the oil slinger helps lube the rod and crank bearings?
You completely misunderstood.
The mains and big end bearings GET NO OIL with the pump removed (well virtually no oil)
So far you've been lucky, clean out the pump and lines, refit the pump, bleed it and make sure cable is properly adjusted.
I haven't done a 380/550 crank for several years (1986 was last one I did)
The pistons and cylinders don't mind pre-mix but the crank won't like it
Thanks Pj,
I will be sure to clean it all out and check to make sure the cable is adjusted properly. Only rode the bike around the neighborhood a few time after I bought it, sooooo I guess i'll know sooner of later if any damage has been done. Thanks again for the info!
NO. Running on pre-mix or with a clogged pump will not immediately ruin the motor because of the oil already in the crank. Running without an operating pump for very long will ruin the crank
Either way im def going to use the pump when i put it all back together, i'll just keep my fingers crossed that the few trips around the neighborhood weren't detrimental to the motor.
I used Yamalube 2 stroke oil. Highly recomended by the local vintage dirt bike racers. My RD loved the Yamalube, and I never had a problem with the auto oiler. My GT550 liked Yamalube as well, although I never had it streetable. Just bench started with it's oil tank, again no problems with the auto oiler.
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... I started tearing the motor apart lastnight because im rebuilding for my rebuild... lol Anyhow, the cylinder walls were as smooth as glass and the bike only has about 5k orig miles on it. Ill post up some pics in my build thread this weekend of the motor and some side case polishing that i've been doing. Did you ever find any pics of your 380?!?!
