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Thanks mate. I had been doing a bit of reading over at VTF and decided a dual carb setup would be the way to go. I have heard of a few people using the VM and TM carbs.
How did you fit your TMs to the TR1?
I agree about Hageman's bike, it would be hard to build and even harder to pull off a decent copy. But I really like the idea of rear sets, high flat seat and lower bars so I may just head in that direction. Cruisers are nice but not my style.
Here she is with the old exhaust back on. This gives me the ground clearance I need but is not very nice looking. I have been thinking about using "GP" style mufflers, one on each side.
Anyway that is all just ideas in my head.
For now I need to touch up the paint on the front rim and rebleed the front brakes. Ohh and sort out the carb sync as I am fairly sure that is why it runs so bad. Just waiting on the new manifolds to arrive before I can do that.
On another note, is the an easy method for cleaning the oxidization off the engine while it is in the frame? I had thought about removing it but am wanting to ride it around whist working on it.
you could try soda blasting with the engine in frame, no nasty grit to get in anywhere and gentle enuf not to hurt the alloy, just rinse with water when you're done
Thanks mate. I had been doing a bit of reading over at VTF and decided a dual carb setup would be the way to go. I have heard of a few people using the VM and TM carbs.
How did you fit your TMs to the TR1?
I run VM38s with the proper Mikuni VM38-200 inlet manifolds, for the connection to the frame/airbox i use some silicon elbows from a turbo shop. They need a bit of trimming but other than that look perfectly stock and are an easy fit.
Thanks mate. I will definitely be changing the bar area. Thinking of going with straight risers and using the Acewell I have sitting around as well as a tiny headlight cowl I have.
As for the intake boots I just ordered stock replacements so looks like the TM will be the go if I decide I need to replace the carbs.
I am currently fixing all the ground locations in hopes that the TCI was just getting funny readings and that will solve the problem.
Still waiting for the epoxy paint to dry. "Don't paint when there is high humidity or temperature exceeding 30c" looks like I can never paint if I follow that. So not the best finish but this isn't a show bike. I think the term is a "10ft bike" looks great from 10ft away haha.
I spoke to the motorcycle mech at work last night and he suggested either an air leak or ignition issue. So I have been looking over the current intake boots, looks like they are good on the inside but need new oring seals. I will get some tonight and try it again tomorrow. If that doesn't fix it I will buy new plug boots and head up the ignition circuit from there.
Alright. Just been for a small ride. Still sputtering a tiny bit but otherwise it is great. I replaced the intake manifold o rings and stuck the carbs back in and it still sputtered and backfired.
It was running rich and would spit out black smoke if you twisted the throttle. After remembering about reading about this problem on VTF I pulled the coast enriched springs from each carb and she is a happy bike now.
The quick ride was up to the hardware store where I grabbed some vinyl tube and made a manometer. I was close with the sync but recon I should be a lot closer now.
So updated to do list:
Replace left fork seal. (I botched it on install but have a spare set)
Buy/build a decent air filter.
Rebleed brakes after replacing nipples.
Ride the snot out of it!
And then comes the want list:
Install acewell gauge (has been sitting on the shelf for years)
New bar risers and bars.
Build headlight cowl (old powder/grain scoop from work, just need trimming and brackets.
I have been through them again and used a can of carb cleaner on each, every passage way has to be clean yet still issues with them.
Going to try the 3k sync someone on VTF suggested and see if that makes a difference.
The rear cylinder is currently shooting flames every few cycles.
And I am supposed to be going for a ride tomorrow morning...
Ohh and I installed the new carb boots which made no difference. Starting to think it might be the TCI.
I have seen C5 ignitions system for this bike and it is on the wish lift for sure. Replaces the TCI with an optical and digital controlled which runs off the cam gear. Combined with a VOES and it has timing advance. But way to expensive for me at the current time.
Went for a 100km ride today through the mountains with a few blokes from work. We had a CBR600RR, a GSXR1000 and a CBR1000RR followed by my XV1100. She couldn't keep up needless to say but that was always going to be the case.
I am missing a fair bit of metal off the bottom of the foot pegs from all the corners and know for sure that this bike has more power to give once I find out how to get at it.
So to be able to go for a ride I wound the rear AF mix screw out to 3 turns and the front was at 2.5, that was enough to get her to stop spitting but if I remove the air filter she will loose all power. So I am thinking it is running lean but am yet to check the plugs, which will probably be of no use as I was going through the rev range so often.
I am still thinking about building a higher sub frame and mounting rearsets.... but I think an ultrasonic clean and jet kit is in order well before that.
My fuel pump died. I opened it up to look an it was very crusty, rubber seals had gone hard and rotten.
I ordered a new pump and will look at mounting it in a different location.
Also I wired up the Acewell 2835 gauge I had sitting on the shelf I had forgotten about. Took a bit of tracing on the XV's wiring diagram but it all works. Still need to mount the sensor for the speedo.
The XV1100 has it fuse box located behind the stock idiot lights and it a bit of a pain to get at so I have ordered a new fuse box to replace it. Whilst I was looking at the wires I found that although I had an ignition fuse wired in from the fuse box harness there was never any connecting wires to the main harness, so I have been able to eliminate that 4 wire plug as the other 2 wires only provided illumination to the old cluster.
More to come soon, for now I need to replace the fork seals that I botched when installing so they stop leaking on my shed floor.
Thanks mate, I will have a look this afternoon and report back. I know the bike was running well before it was parked up and I am still very suspect of the carbs, especially now I have seen what was in the fuel pump which is post filter.
From what I've read so far: Most definitely. But just check the cam timing, especially the spitting flames out of the exhaust-part, reminded me of some mishaps in my own past with these beasts.
Just out of curiosity I pulled the fuel pump apart on the electrical side and everything seemed find. So I hooked it up to a 12v battery and it started ticking away. Well at least I know it works.
From what I can see in the wiring diagram it looks as if there is a part of the tacho which sends a signal to the fuel pump relay. Since I have removed that I decided to wire it back in as a test, this made no difference so I removed it again.
Then I noticed that the fuel warning light was connected to the relay as well and connected the two wires together and tried the pump again, sure enough it works. What I don't know is if it will continue to work after the initial 5 seconds it switches on for. It is to late to start the bike now so that will have to wait until tomorrow arvo.
I have not checked cam timing yet, it is on the list for tomorrow as well.
Ha a turbo would be great but I have that many other issues I need to sort out along with the planned redesign.
I am still kicking myself for giving my TR1 tank to a friend, who would have thought I would want one 3 years later.
As for the rearsets I was given a pair off a fireblade by a mate at work. He had them sitting in his garage for a while and had no need for them. I am going to try and adapt them to fit as mid pegs instead of the stock towards.
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