Velocity stacks tuning

Dirk D

New Member
I just bought some velocity stacks for my 1971 Honda CB500 and was wondering if I had to re jet the carbs. Everything is stock except for a Kerker exhaust.
 
Yes, changing your rate of intake requires rejetting. I just bought some from Dime City Cycles and also bought a set of main jets to find just the right one ($36 for a set of multiple sizes) at their recommendation.
 
yes. And for the record your bike will run worse with velocity stacks all the time, except for the few occasions when you have the throttle cracked wide open.


but they look cool.
 
The "few occasions" he decides to open her up....? What?

Oh yeah, you live in New York. ;)

But yeah, in all seriousness, he's right. I have a HOT looking set for my 350F, built in brass screens and all, but I decided to run pods instead. Just a little easier to deal with.

Honda paid a lot of engineers a lot of money to design a product that would work correctly and efficiently straight from the factory.

I'm certainly not saying leave it stock, f*%# that noise, just be prepared to make the necesary adjustments after you make your changes. I wish I could give you a baseline as far as what jets you could try out first, but I'm not too sure as far as your bike goes, hopefully somebody else will chime in.
 
No no no no no no no no no NO!

Stacks will make tuning much easier than pods, not quite as easy as the stock airbox, but close. The stock airbox has velocity stacks built into it. When you remove these (and slap on pods) you remove the devices that smooth the air entering the carbs. That's why you will NEVER get the carbs tuned perfectly with pods. Stacks (be it in the airbox or individually) are essential to a solid tune.
 
Huh. Certainly not what I've experienced with any of my bikes. Always had better luck with pods. That "Never" statement isn't true at all.
 
Rocan said:
yes. And for the record your bike will run worse with velocity stacks all the time, except for the few occasions when you have the throttle cracked wide open.


but they look cool.

Mine runs like a top at all throttle openings, David. ;)
 
Dan, with stacks (and pods of course) you'll likely have to monkey with all aspects of the jetting. Slow, main, and needle height. It's just trial and error, but it's possible. If you were near me, I'd invite you to take my bike for a spin. You might be surprised.
 
I've adjusted the mains, I've not touched the slows or the needle height... Well, I have, but it's all factory spec. I think I'll have to get out there and start playing around. Though, I've been content with how they've (CB750, CB550) been running.... We'll see!

Either way, thanks for the tips Chris!
 
I don't want to step on anyone's toes here, cause y'all are like family, but personally, I think pods are garbage. You can get a bike running just fine on pods. But as well as the stock airbox? (almost) never. Some people don't want (or need/care/etc) a buttery smooth response from idle to full throttle, and that's fine.
 
ringo, of COURSE you can get v-stacks to run like a top at all rpm ranges, but someone whos asking if they need to rejet after putting v-stacks on obviously wont have the experience to get them running perfect ;)


so yes, v-stacks can work well... but they arent the best. if they were, all of the factory race bikes would be running them instead of massive airboxes ;)
 
You also have to really like engine building with velocity stacks.
You wont get more than 8,000 miles out of top end on a 550 with K&N filters. (rings wear pretty quick)
I would expect less than half that mileage with completely open stacks
 
I've had better luck with velocity stacks over pods......but like PJ said....its gonna wear on the internals faster. They both work.....and depending on the situation, I will chose one over the other.

As for jetting......why is it everytime i'm on this site there is a jetting question about running carbs or exhaust open, on these older bikes??? You guys have to remember....these arent modern day sportbikes tuned from the factory with tight tolerances. These bikes were built with alot of give!! Unless you are doing some major race mods to the intakes, big cams or pushing high compression pistons.......stock jetting will work best on a stock motor with any carb or exhaust combo. Majority of the issues I read about on this website with bikes not running correctly are probadly due to someone jacking with the carbs. So NO......dont rejet.....leave it stock.
 
ohiocaferacer said:
I've had better luck with velocity stacks over pods......but like PJ said....its gonna wear on the internals faster. They both work.....and depending on the situation, I will chose one over the other.

As for jetting......why is it everytime i'm on this site there is a jetting question about running carbs or exhaust open, on these older bikes??? You guys have to remember....these arent modern day sportbikes tuned from the factory with tight tolerances. These bikes were built with alot of give!! Unless you are doing some major race mods to the intakes, big cams or pushing high compression pistons.......stock jetting will work best on a stock motor with any carb or exhaust combo. Majority of the issues I read about on this website with bikes not running correctly are probadly due to someone jacking with the carbs. So NO......dont rejet.....leave it stock.

See thats why I ask the question. It seems eveyone is quick to say re jet for every little thing. My friend who is fairly expierenced and knowledgable with these bikes, has aftermarket exhaust wrapped and stacks. He is running stock jets and just tuned them properly and it runs perfect.
 
ohiocaferacer said:
So NO......dont rejet.....leave it stock.

This goes against basically everyone here who's opened up their intake and exhaust, and had to rejet to make the bike not run like shit.

?????????

Really.
 
Well, I'll be putting Velocity stacks on my CL450 this weekend and I'll let you know. First I'll start with no jetting and see how they run. Then i'll rejet the Main jets if needed. If still crap, I'll work on the slow jet and others as suggested until I get it running right.
I'll report back after i've busted a knuckle or two.
 
Ringo said:
This goes against basically everyone here who's opened up their intake and exhaust, and had to rejet to make the bike not run like shit.

?????????

Really.

Really!

Take it or leave it.......I didnt start working on these last night.
 
Just adjusting the main jets will do next to nothing in terms of the entire function range. You need to look at the pilot jet and jet needle as well as a minimum. Then the air/fuel screws may need adjusting as well. All this will get you 80% there. I don't know Hondas, but with 4 cylinder Suzuki GS's I can tell you what you need.


I think the misconception here is that adjusting carburetion for free flowing intake is a delicate job that many people mess up because they have no idea what they are doing.


people have been tuning their bikes with pods and velocity stacks AND made them perform better. Then there are people who throw on air pods and velocity stacks for the 'cool effect' without rejetting, losing lots of performance in the process.


Finally, mechanical slide carbs are quite simple to get started on rejetting with air pods or stacks. CV carbs, however, are a complete bitch and I would keep the airbox on them.

edit: Z1 Entperprises sells a Sudco carb tuning manual for Mikuni carbs that explains carburetion and tuning quite well (although directed at aftermarket Mikuni carbs)
 
kioskguy said:
Well, I'll be putting Velocity stacks on my CL450 this weekend and I'll let you know. First I'll start with no jetting and see how they run. Then i'll rejet the Main jets if needed. If still crap, I'll work on the slow jet and others as suggested until I get it running right.
I'll report back after i've busted a knuckle or two.
Thanks. Looking forward to see what you come up with.
 
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