Victoria! Zeke's CB175 Build

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Yep, 'Standard Parts' spec for various bolts if specific torque isn't give.
Often it's on a different page so easily overlooked
I bought nut drivers as even with 'screwdriver handle' it's possible to get over 10ft/lbs on a 6mm bolt
6~9 ft/lbs is standard torque no matter which manufacturer is using them.
Specific torques are for higher or lower grade bolts, you have to figure out what they screw into (plastic, alloy, cast iron, steel, etc)
 
Simple rule of thumb is that parts never need to be as tight as you think and 6mm bolts or screws are about 1/2 to 2 ft-pounds. That's more or less one pinky finger on its own.
 
teazer said:
Simple rule of thumb is that parts never need to be as tight as you think and 6mm bolts or screws are about 1/2 to 2 ft-pounds. That's more or less one pinky finger on its own.
eqada6uh.jpg
thanks worth the 35 bucks


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adurynev.jpg
200 exhaust port before after rough grind
u7e6usam.jpg
just so happens the greatest obstruction is that valve lol


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Texasstar said:
eqada6uh.jpg
thanks worth the 35 bucks


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I'm learning just like you, I'm just wayyy behind :D you mind telling me what that's for? That a new plate so you can get rid of the left case cover? You're eliminating the stator/alternator right? I may be way off - actually it's probable.
 
1sttimer said:
I'm learning just like you, I'm just wayyy behind :D you mind telling me what that's for? a new plate so you can get rid of the left case cover? You're eliminating the stator/alternator right? I may be way off - actually it's probable.
that is an oil block off plate that goes inside your cover when you go total loss so you can remove the stator (1!kilogram) and so then you can install either a magneto or put your electronic ignition on the crank instead of on the cam where it is subject to higher temps.


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Texasstar said:
that is an oil block off plate that goes inside your cover when you go total loss so you can remove the stator (1!kilogram) and so then you can install either a magneto or put your electronic ignition on the crank instead of on the cam where it is subject to higher temps.


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Oh cool! Thank you for the explanation. I was thinking you could block off the entire side and just remove the whole cover, but I understand now.
 
Texasstar said:
that is an oil block off plate that goes inside your cover when you go total loss so you can remove the stator (1!kilogram) and so then you can install either a magneto or put your electronic ignition on the crank instead of on the cam where it is subject to higher temps.


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also crank trigger is m accurate ;) the seal ring needs fixing to the plate ?
 
Can you run a cb200 right cover and use the pull clutch. Or are the baskets different, I know they are but.... Otherwise how are you going to use the block plate and the 175 push clutch?
 
simo said:
Can you run a cb200 right cover and use the pull clutch. Or are the baskets different, I know they are but.... Otherwise how are you going to use the block plate and the 175 push clutch?
the block off plate doesn't block off the clutch push arm


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xb33bsa said:
also crank trigger is m accurate ;) the seal ring needs fixing to the plate ?
yes I think the way it was intended was the seal was behind the magneto we will need to fabricate a plate for the trigger to sandwich the seal in place


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I thought the cam trigger was more accurate as the crank whips around at high rpm allowing the trigger gap to fluctuate?
Timing chain wear allows timing to retard over time but cam has virtually no flex
Maybe it's just CB350's?
 
crazypj said:
I thought the cam trigger was more accurate as the crank whips around at high rpm allowing the trigger gap to fluctuate?
Timing chain wear allows timing to retard over time but cam has virtually no flex
Maybe it's just CB350's?
crank trigger is more consistently precise to the actual position of the piston
that is why autoes went that way and all sickles now as well
 
crazypj said:
I thought the cam trigger was more accurate as the crank whips around at high rpm allowing the trigger gap to fluctuate?
Timing chain wear allows timing to retard over time but cam has virtually no flex
Maybe it's just CB350's?

XB is correct. The end of the crank may whip a little and change the gap, but that's not as bad as all the harmonics in a cam chain which make the timing wander up and down.

Tex, you know that's the long turn radius right? ;-) focus on that because that's where the action is. The smaller (short) turn radius is a mess with that low intake port so just clean the floor up as it goes around the corner as best you can.

You can make the boss around the guide much thinner than that BTW.
 
teazer said:
XB is correct. The end of the crank may whip a little and change the gap, but that's not as bad as all the harmonics in a cam chain which make the timing wander up and down.

Tex, you know that's the long turn radius right? ;-) focus on that because that's where the action is. The smaller (short) turn radius is a mess with that low intake port so just clean the floor up as it goes around the corner as best you can.

You can make the boss around the guide much thinner than that BTW.
are you
Teasing me again? because we raised the roof in this one even more than Lucky...I have been so intimate with the long turn radius I decide to stick my finger in and feel the short turn radius and there is a ridge on the short turn radius deflecting the flow like the mystery in the 160...or creating turbulence??? ;) when the valve opens I guess it doesn't matter because all the exhaust was slamming into the boss on the short turn radius. Another reason to drop the boss more? I am using simple green to use as a guide on flow. To seen how smooth it flows and how evenly it disperses around the boss
on the long turn radius. Here are side by side picks before and after but the light is misleading because I sanded with 500 grit and then hit it with 120 some more. We cut the guide even with the base of the bowl and the boss has been dropped even with that...but if we can go more I am game.
synu2ude.jpg



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http://mototuneusa.com/homework.htm

Ok any thoughts on Motoman's claim of most intake ports being oversize as we know is the case in this 200 head. So by reducing the intake port
size by 30% ish we increase velocity during the duration where a flow bench can't tell you what you need to know during this phase of the cycle. I guess the game would be see if you can keep the intake port numbers the same on cfm but raise the port velocity.

What makes sense is not being able to test the overlap duration velocity numbers and that if you increase port size for over all you decrease the velocity that the charge is pulled in to increase volumetric efficiency? What I like about his logic is that it is counterintuitive like riding a motorcycle and it places more emphasis on the last (duration) not total emphasis on the first part...will reducing the intake port diameter help increase the velocity at which the charge is pulled into the combustion chamber on overlap? Thus increasing volumetric efficiency?

Here is a link to all of his papers.

http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm


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