Victoria! Zeke's CB175 Build

Sonreir said:
Keep your head down and the throttle open. :D
it just so happens our little farm road test track by the casa is three quarters of mile...:)


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simo said:
2nd to last column is float heights
http://www.examiner.com/article/it-s-a-hole-one-on-the-cb77-super-hawk-engine

The perfect storm at high rpm...so do you think it is 22.5 or 26.6 for this motor?


"In the process of trying to determine what had gone wrong the first time, I discovered that the carburetor float levels had been set to 26.5mm, instead of the prescribed 22.5mm settings, which would lean out the fuel metering at mid-range and high speeds quite a bit. The original used pistons/rings were worn and using some oil which when mixed with a lean fuel mixture from the carbs initiated some pre-ignition/detonation, causing piston failure on the right side. Because of some design deficiencies in the spark advancer system, the right side ignition timing tends to run about 4-6 degrees in advance of the left side, when both sides are set the same at idle speeds. The extra spark advance, coupled with the condition of the engine, the low float levels, the rider size/weight and other factors all led to the first failure, but had no contribution to the second one, which was apparently a fracture in the sleeve material due to the thinned wall thickness after the 3mm overbore."


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Texasstar said:
http://www.examiner.com/article/it-s-a-hole-one-on-the-cb77-super-hawk-engine

The perfect storm at high rpm... Why I want to get the float level right. 26.5 id for the cl77.


"In the process of trying to determine what had gone wrong the first time, I discovered that the carburetor float levels had been set to 26.5mm, instead of the prescribed 22.5mm settings, which would lean out the fuel metering at mid-range and high speeds quite a bit. The original used pistons/rings were worn and using some oil which when mixed with a lean fuel mixture from the carbs initiated some pre-ignition/detonation, causing piston failure on the right side. Because of some design deficiencies in the spark advancer system, the right side ignition timing tends to run about 4-6 degrees in advance of the left side, when both sides are set the same at idle speeds. The extra spark advance, coupled with the condition of the engine, the low float levels, the rider size/weight and other factors all led to the first failure, but had no contribution to the second one, which was apparently a fracture in the sleeve material due to the thinned wall thickness after the 3mm overbore."


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These floats are set at 20mm " but Teazer has had a myriad of bikes that this could have come from so we just don't want to run lean at WOT...we learned that the Mikuni vm20's have too small of a float bowl and we run lean after 10.5 k...trying to get the bike ready for the Dyno today


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So Teazer do you do this on purpose to see if we will notice?

"What the hell is that?" What I say to myself when parts arrive from someone that is totally committed to speed...someone who says it only gives you "2 percent more" if you use it. I guess I need to drill out the other side? Lol


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Texasstar said:
We need to be taught how to adjust it!


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ok i have a simple method that works well for me
you need to have the camshafts cleaned and lubed with some moly grease
get the front wheel off the ground
back of a couple turns on the linkage rod that pulls the linked shoe(lengthening the rod distance)
while spinning the wheel adjust cable adjusters until the main lever shoe starts dragging
spin the wheel hard and apply the brake hard repeat a couple times to make sure the cam is seating well
then while you have an adjuster set so the main lever shoe is pretty lightly dragging go to the link rod start shortening the rod to bring in the linked shoe
make it so the linked shoe is dragging the wheel down quite a bit harder than just with the main shoe
tighten locknut on link rod
test ride get it warmed up
if it works really well you probably are fine after a bit of bedding in you can always try going tighter or looser on the link rod 1/2 turn, testing after each adjust
 
Superhawk Sound! Keihin 26mm...Now we have some fuel! http://youtu.be/9TJ-ZkuuRkE


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F*ck man! That sounds incredibly great and powerful! This will surely be a BOTM. FTW!

How much HP are you shooting for with this bike? What's the stock number?

*On a side note, how do you cope with being a downhiller and living in Texas? Not much elevations to throw yourself from, or am I wrong?*





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dualero said:
F*ck man! That sounds incredibly great and powerful! This will surely be a BOTM. FTW!

How much HP are you shooting for with this bike? What's the stock number?

*On a side note, how do you cope with being a downhiller and living in Texas? Not much elevations to throw yourself from, or am I wrong?





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the cb175 had 12-14 whp we are shooting for 20 plus whp...now I am an uphiller living in Texas ;)


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xb33bsa said:
ok i have a simple method that works well for me
you need to have the camshafts cleaned and lubed with some moly grease
get the front wheel off the ground
back of a couple turns on the linkage rod that pulls the linked shoe(lengthening the rod distance)
while spinning the wheel adjust cable adjusters until the main lever shoe starts dragging
spin the wheel hard and apply the brake hard repeat a couple times to make sure the cam is seating well
then while you have an adjuster set so the main lever shoe is pretty lightly dragging go to the link rod start shortening the rod to bring in the linked shoe
make it so the linked shoe is dragging the wheel down quite a bit harder than just with the main shoe
tighten locknut on link rod
test ride get it warmed up
if it works really well you probably are fine after a bit of bedding in you can always try going tighter or looser on the link rod 1/2 turn, testing after each adjust
thank you!!!!!


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Texasstar said:
http://www.examiner.com/article/it-s-a-hole-one-on-the-cb77-super-hawk-engine

The perfect storm at high rpm...so do you think it is 22.5 or 26.6 for this motor?


"In the process of trying to determine what had gone wrong the first time, I discovered that the carburetor float levels had been set to 26.5mm, instead of the prescribed 22.5mm settings, which would lean out the fuel metering at mid-range and high speeds quite a bit. The original used pistons/rings were worn and using some oil which when mixed with a lean fuel mixture from the carbs initiated some pre-ignition/detonation, causing piston failure on the right side. Because of some design deficiencies in the spark advancer system, the right side ignition timing tends to run about 4-6 degrees in advance of the left side, when both sides are set the same at idle speeds. The extra spark advance, coupled with the condition of the engine, the low float levels, the rider size/weight and other factors all led to the first failure, but had no contribution to the second one, which was apparently a fracture in the sleeve material due to the thinned wall thickness after the 3mm overbore."


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Looks like someone set the cb77 floats to the cb72 height.
Do the cb72 and the cb77 have the same venturi? The float hieght will effect the fuel pressure in the bowl relitive to the venturi and the vacuum pressure it produces. The higher the fuel level the greater the pressure ,the faster the fuel boils, the richer the overall mix
I'd set the carbs for stock to start and see what happens on the dyno
 
Texasstar said:
Superhawk Sound! Keihin 26mm...Now we have some fuel! http://youtu.be/9TJ-ZkuuRkE


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That don't sound like a cb175 anymore
Congrats can't wait to hear it on the track/road
 
simo said:
Looks like someone set the cb77 floats to the cb72 height.
Do the cb72 and the cb77 have the same venturi? The float hieght will effect the fuel pressure in the bowl relitive to the venturi and the vacuum pressure it produces. The higher the fuel level the greater the pressure ,the faster the fuel boils, the richer the overall mix
I'd set the carbs for stock to start and see what happens on the dyno
I set them at 22mm


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