axeugene27
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: vintage race CB350 - almost ready for paint
you sir are badass
you sir are badass
vintage race CB350 - last 10% is the hardest
- Thread starter freedomgli
- Start date
Hoosier Daddy
Earache my eye...
Re: vintage race CB350 - front fender sectioned
The plastic used in milk jugs is very thin. I use Antifreeze jugs. Their shape yeild nice wide sections and it's a thicker plastic for protection.
freedomgli said:
The plastic used in milk jugs is very thin. I use Antifreeze jugs. Their shape yeild nice wide sections and it's a thicker plastic for protection.
freedomgli
Been Around the Block
vintage race CB350 - almost ready for paint
Has anyone tried plasti-dipping their tire irons to protect alloy rims from scratching? Or is it not strong enough?
Has anyone tried plasti-dipping their tire irons to protect alloy rims from scratching? Or is it not strong enough?
eyhonda
Coast to Coast
Re: vintage race CB350 - almost ready for paint
I think that would be too soft.
I would try these guys spoons:
http://www.nomartirechanger.com/category_s/39.htm
They have built in rim protectors. I've always had the wish to buy a good tire changer and these guys make a good changing bar for $125. Use it with the Harbor Freight holding base and it would be affordable. You could probably make one yourself using the replacement tips.
I think that would be too soft.
I would try these guys spoons:
http://www.nomartirechanger.com/category_s/39.htm
They have built in rim protectors. I've always had the wish to buy a good tire changer and these guys make a good changing bar for $125. Use it with the Harbor Freight holding base and it would be affordable. You could probably make one yourself using the replacement tips.
cruisingram
New Member
Re: vintage race CB350 - almost ready for paint
I own a no mar tire changer- top quality, easy to use, super versatile. Love it.
I own a no mar tire changer- top quality, easy to use, super versatile. Love it.
freedomgli
Been Around the Block
vintage race CB350 - almost ready for paint
Maybe when I win the lottery I can afford a nomar tire changer and the garage space to accommodate it. Until then I'll continue to do it the old fashioned way.
Today I prepped the garage with lots of 1mil plastic sheet and I sprayed the frame and swing arm with primer. Tomorrow I'll top coat.
Maybe when I win the lottery I can afford a nomar tire changer and the garage space to accommodate it. Until then I'll continue to do it the old fashioned way.
Today I prepped the garage with lots of 1mil plastic sheet and I sprayed the frame and swing arm with primer. Tomorrow I'll top coat.
buckeyebike
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: vintage race CB350 - almost ready for paint
Regarding the rim savers- I guess there is a new updated, stronger (less brittle?) version- likely for reasons you described. That would be frustrating . . . I have a set of Cazzo forged wheels with the Conti Attacks and the same tool was used.
Regarding the rim savers- I guess there is a new updated, stronger (less brittle?) version- likely for reasons you described. That would be frustrating . . . I have a set of Cazzo forged wheels with the Conti Attacks and the same tool was used.
freedomgli
Been Around the Block
Re: vintage race CB350 - almost ready for paint
Yesterday I primed the frame and swingarm with 1 coat of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Primer (instructions say do 2 coats but I wanted to save a day). Today I painted the first top coat with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black. Tomorrow I will add the final top coat.
Yesterday I primed the frame and swingarm with 1 coat of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Primer (instructions say do 2 coats but I wanted to save a day). Today I painted the first top coat with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black. Tomorrow I will add the final top coat.
freedomgli
Been Around the Block
Re: vintage race CB350 - almost ready for paint
I'm still working on the fairing. It was received with a crack right where the nose meets the side panel. I repaired the crack a while ago but apparently not very well. This is a high stress area that gets flexed every time the body is removed or installed and I managed to break it again. So I repaired it with more fiberglass. Now I'm back to the iterative routine of filling and sanding, filling and sanding. Soon it will be good enough for primer and paint.
I'm still working on the fairing. It was received with a crack right where the nose meets the side panel. I repaired the crack a while ago but apparently not very well. This is a high stress area that gets flexed every time the body is removed or installed and I managed to break it again. So I repaired it with more fiberglass. Now I'm back to the iterative routine of filling and sanding, filling and sanding. Soon it will be good enough for primer and paint.
freedomgli
Been Around the Block
Re: vintage race CB350 - almost ready for paint
Two steps forward, three steps back. Serves me right for trying to take shortcuts. I've had the motor in and out of the frame and the bodywork on and off so many times yet I failed to check that there is sufficient clearance between my rear fairing mount (a long aluminum tube affixed to the frame backbone) and the carburetors.
A lightbulb appeared above my head when I spotted a CB350K4 race bike for sale on eBay.co.uk with a similar fairing arrangement to mine and I noticed something different.
As you can see, his rear fairing mount was pointed straight down whereas mine was pointing straight forward.
Clearly, his was correct and mine was wrong as the way mine is situated it would run straight into the carbs! So now I've got to put the motor back in the freshly painted frame without scratching anything, attach the carburetors, attach the wheels & suspension and re-fit the bodywork. This means filling some holes and drilling new ones. The trick will be getting this all done before Halloween as that appears to be the last nice day of the year with temperatures conducive to painting. Will I make it in time?
Two steps forward, three steps back. Serves me right for trying to take shortcuts. I've had the motor in and out of the frame and the bodywork on and off so many times yet I failed to check that there is sufficient clearance between my rear fairing mount (a long aluminum tube affixed to the frame backbone) and the carburetors.
A lightbulb appeared above my head when I spotted a CB350K4 race bike for sale on eBay.co.uk with a similar fairing arrangement to mine and I noticed something different.
As you can see, his rear fairing mount was pointed straight down whereas mine was pointing straight forward.
Clearly, his was correct and mine was wrong as the way mine is situated it would run straight into the carbs! So now I've got to put the motor back in the freshly painted frame without scratching anything, attach the carburetors, attach the wheels & suspension and re-fit the bodywork. This means filling some holes and drilling new ones. The trick will be getting this all done before Halloween as that appears to be the last nice day of the year with temperatures conducive to painting. Will I make it in time?
freedomgli
Been Around the Block
Re: vintage race CB350 - almost ready for paint
Not much news to report. Been busy with my Aprilia and with life: new kitten, new patio in backyard, keeping wife happy, holidays, you know how it is.
On the CB350 front I'm working on the motor now, drilling and safety wiring various hardware (cam sprocket bolts, tappet covers, etc.). Should I safety wire the bolts that keep the side covers on?
I decided to switch to the new THR PVL ignition setup as soon as it is available later this month so I will be busy installing that. That decision has allowed me to choose which tachometer I'm going to get, just need to find the money to actually pay for it!
Once the motor is in the frame then I will make the necessary change to the exhaust mounting bracket to clear my bellypan. Fairing paint will have to wait until Spring when the weather is warmer.
I also picked up about $500 in cable making supplies from Flanders so making custom length cables should be a breeze.
Not much news to report. Been busy with my Aprilia and with life: new kitten, new patio in backyard, keeping wife happy, holidays, you know how it is.
On the CB350 front I'm working on the motor now, drilling and safety wiring various hardware (cam sprocket bolts, tappet covers, etc.). Should I safety wire the bolts that keep the side covers on?
I decided to switch to the new THR PVL ignition setup as soon as it is available later this month so I will be busy installing that. That decision has allowed me to choose which tachometer I'm going to get, just need to find the money to actually pay for it!
Once the motor is in the frame then I will make the necessary change to the exhaust mounting bracket to clear my bellypan. Fairing paint will have to wait until Spring when the weather is warmer.
I also picked up about $500 in cable making supplies from Flanders so making custom length cables should be a breeze.
teddpage
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: vintage race CB350 - almost ready for paint
You will have to consult the rulebook for whatever series you are running in. In USCRA, I think if a cover has 3 or more bolts holding it on there is no need for safety wire.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk 2
You will have to consult the rulebook for whatever series you are running in. In USCRA, I think if a cover has 3 or more bolts holding it on there is no need for safety wire.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk 2
freedomgli
Been Around the Block
Re: vintage race CB350 - almost ready for paint
My bike is being built as a WERA V1 backmarker as I've made too many changes for 350GP but not enough to run at the front of V1 and I don't care what place I finish. I built the bike I wanted and I will continue to develop it over the coming years as money allows. I will also run AHRMA Formula 250 on occassion.
WERA and AHRMA both specify minimum requirements for safety wiring. Still wondering if it's worth the effort to do the engine side covers or not. Doing so would be going above and beyond the minimum but “If in doubt, lockwire it.” I'd prefer not to.
WERA
- axles or axle nuts
- oil filler caps
- kickstarter retaining bolts
- axle caps and/or pinch bolts
- oil drain plug(s)
- removable exhaust baffles
- brake caliper bolts
- oil gallery plugs*
- radiator caps
- brake torque arms
- oil lines
- coolant drains
- speedo and tach cables
- spin on oil filters/filter bolts
- any pressure fed lubricant line
- fork oil drain screws/bolts*
- rear exhaust mount(s) (all)
- brake pad retaining pins*
*may be secured by silicone glue or H/D weather-strip adhesive in lieu of wiring.
AHRMA
-All fluid plugs and fittings with oil or coolant behind them must be securely fastened or safety wired.
As a general rule of thumb, “If in doubt, lockwire it.” Note: Only stainless steel lockwire may be used. The following regulations apply in addition to those listed above.
a) Primary case filler, drain and level-check plugs must be lockwired.
b) Crankcase filler, drain and level plugs must be lockwired.
c) Transmission filler, drain and level-check plugs must be lockwired.
d) Any primary case, crankcase or transmission inspection plug must be lockwired.
e) Any primary case, crankcase or transmission overflow or vent hoses must be lockwired.
f) Oil filter nuts and oil filter plugs must be lockwired.
g) Fuel tank overflow lines must be secured and have a catch bottle or one-way valve provided.
h) Lockwiring of carburetor drain plugs, or securing with a fuel-proof sealant, is encouraged.
i) All flexible oil lines must be a reinforced oil and gas resistant hose, and must be secured by lockwire as secondary security, in addition to a swaged fitting or hose clamp. Total-loss oiling systems must be equipped with unbreakable catch bottles and/or a “select pad” diaper system.
j) All fuel and oil lines must be securely clamped or secured by other acceptable means, and will be pull-tested during tech inspection.
k) All fork drains must be safety wired or securely taped.
l) Exhaust systems must be securely mounted and bolts lockwired. A secondary security system is encouraged and may be required at the Tech Inspector’s discretion.
m) Brake torque arm bolt lockwiring is required.
n) If not lockwired, axle nuts must be secured with a cotter pin or other acceptable means.
o) Foot brake pedal pivot bolts and nuts must be lockwired.
p) All brake rods and cables with threaded adjusters must be wired or cotter-pinned to prevent the loss of the adjuster nut.
q) Throttle cable(s) must be lockwired to the carburetor linkage or body.
r) All disc brake caliper attaching bolts must be lockwired.
My bike is being built as a WERA V1 backmarker as I've made too many changes for 350GP but not enough to run at the front of V1 and I don't care what place I finish. I built the bike I wanted and I will continue to develop it over the coming years as money allows. I will also run AHRMA Formula 250 on occassion.
WERA and AHRMA both specify minimum requirements for safety wiring. Still wondering if it's worth the effort to do the engine side covers or not. Doing so would be going above and beyond the minimum but “If in doubt, lockwire it.” I'd prefer not to.
WERA
- axles or axle nuts
- oil filler caps
- kickstarter retaining bolts
- axle caps and/or pinch bolts
- oil drain plug(s)
- removable exhaust baffles
- brake caliper bolts
- oil gallery plugs*
- radiator caps
- brake torque arms
- oil lines
- coolant drains
- speedo and tach cables
- spin on oil filters/filter bolts
- any pressure fed lubricant line
- fork oil drain screws/bolts*
- rear exhaust mount(s) (all)
- brake pad retaining pins*
*may be secured by silicone glue or H/D weather-strip adhesive in lieu of wiring.
AHRMA
-All fluid plugs and fittings with oil or coolant behind them must be securely fastened or safety wired.
As a general rule of thumb, “If in doubt, lockwire it.” Note: Only stainless steel lockwire may be used. The following regulations apply in addition to those listed above.
a) Primary case filler, drain and level-check plugs must be lockwired.
b) Crankcase filler, drain and level plugs must be lockwired.
c) Transmission filler, drain and level-check plugs must be lockwired.
d) Any primary case, crankcase or transmission inspection plug must be lockwired.
e) Any primary case, crankcase or transmission overflow or vent hoses must be lockwired.
f) Oil filter nuts and oil filter plugs must be lockwired.
g) Fuel tank overflow lines must be secured and have a catch bottle or one-way valve provided.
h) Lockwiring of carburetor drain plugs, or securing with a fuel-proof sealant, is encouraged.
i) All flexible oil lines must be a reinforced oil and gas resistant hose, and must be secured by lockwire as secondary security, in addition to a swaged fitting or hose clamp. Total-loss oiling systems must be equipped with unbreakable catch bottles and/or a “select pad” diaper system.
j) All fuel and oil lines must be securely clamped or secured by other acceptable means, and will be pull-tested during tech inspection.
k) All fork drains must be safety wired or securely taped.
l) Exhaust systems must be securely mounted and bolts lockwired. A secondary security system is encouraged and may be required at the Tech Inspector’s discretion.
m) Brake torque arm bolt lockwiring is required.
n) If not lockwired, axle nuts must be secured with a cotter pin or other acceptable means.
o) Foot brake pedal pivot bolts and nuts must be lockwired.
p) All brake rods and cables with threaded adjusters must be wired or cotter-pinned to prevent the loss of the adjuster nut.
q) Throttle cable(s) must be lockwired to the carburetor linkage or body.
r) All disc brake caliper attaching bolts must be lockwired.
freedomgli
Been Around the Block
Re: vintage race CB350 - almost ready for paint
I wish I had checked eBay for cheap solder pots before I bought a new one. The Esico Model 12 is great if you're making tons and tons of cables but for the amateur it's overkill. I will make a little tray to fit underneath the solder pot to insulate my workbench from the heat (the entire solder pot gets hot). This tray will also hold about 3/4" of sand to catch the dross (contaminated solder) that I skim off the top before dipping.
Thanks to crazypj for supplying a nice aluminum tach drive plug.
Pipe and Guiness are performance enhancing drugs to assist problem solving efforts.
I wish I had checked eBay for cheap solder pots before I bought a new one. The Esico Model 12 is great if you're making tons and tons of cables but for the amateur it's overkill. I will make a little tray to fit underneath the solder pot to insulate my workbench from the heat (the entire solder pot gets hot). This tray will also hold about 3/4" of sand to catch the dross (contaminated solder) that I skim off the top before dipping.
Thanks to crazypj for supplying a nice aluminum tach drive plug.
Pipe and Guiness are performance enhancing drugs to assist problem solving efforts.
freedomgli
Been Around the Block
Re: vintage race CB350 - attending to details
My bike will only have about 3 wires in total. I really like weatherpack crimp connectors but given the miniscule scale of the wiring on my bike I'll probably just solder and heat shrink.
My bike will only have about 3 wires in total. I really like weatherpack crimp connectors but given the miniscule scale of the wiring on my bike I'll probably just solder and heat shrink.
