Virago 920 XV cafe racer / custom
- Thread starter ao32
- Start date
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
There are more than one way or theory on how but basically after new rings are in you need to run the motor for a few heat and cool cycles under load to seat the rings then generally change out the oil and put fresh in. So you may not get to the break in period until the bike is ridable. I think there are some good articles on here and the web about it. I Usually take the bike or car or whatever out to drive, after good and warm its good to accelerate hard, then close the throttle, then hard again then close the throttle and this is supposed to help seat the rings, the decel quick forces oil up onto the pistons. Regular dino oil is best and you change it out in a couple hundred miles to get rid of any fine particles generated in break in.
The clymer and haines may have a suggested break in period section after rebuild.
Yep chapter 4 has break in section in the clymers
The clymer and haines may have a suggested break in period section after rebuild.
Yep chapter 4 has break in section in the clymers
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
Following cylinder servicing (boring, honing,
new rings, etc.) and major lower end work, the
engine should be broken in just as if it were new.
The performance and service life of the engine
depends greatly on a careful and sensible break-in.
For the first 500 miles, no more than one-third
throttle should be used and speed should be varied
as much as possible within the one-third throttle
limit. Prolonged, steady running at one speed, no
matter how moderate, is to be avoided, as is hard
acceleration.
Following the 500-mile service, increasingly
more throttle can be used but full throttle should
not be used until the motorcycle has covered at
least 1,000 miles and then it should be limited to
short bursts until 1,500 miles have been logged.
During the break-in period, oil consumption will
be higher than normal. It is therefore important to
frequently check and correct the oil level. At no time,
during break-in or later, should the oil level be
allowed to drop below the bottom line on the inspection
window; if the oil level is low, the oil will
become overheated resulting in insufficient lubrication
and increased wear.
500-mile Service
It is essential that the oil and filter be changed
after the first 500 miles. In addition, it is a good
idea to change the oil and filter at the completion
of break-in (about 1,500 miles) to ensure that all of
the particles produced during break-in are
removed from the lubrication system. The small
added expense may be considered a smart
investment that will pay off in increased engine
life.
new rings, etc.) and major lower end work, the
engine should be broken in just as if it were new.
The performance and service life of the engine
depends greatly on a careful and sensible break-in.
For the first 500 miles, no more than one-third
throttle should be used and speed should be varied
as much as possible within the one-third throttle
limit. Prolonged, steady running at one speed, no
matter how moderate, is to be avoided, as is hard
acceleration.
Following the 500-mile service, increasingly
more throttle can be used but full throttle should
not be used until the motorcycle has covered at
least 1,000 miles and then it should be limited to
short bursts until 1,500 miles have been logged.
During the break-in period, oil consumption will
be higher than normal. It is therefore important to
frequently check and correct the oil level. At no time,
during break-in or later, should the oil level be
allowed to drop below the bottom line on the inspection
window; if the oil level is low, the oil will
become overheated resulting in insufficient lubrication
and increased wear.
500-mile Service
It is essential that the oil and filter be changed
after the first 500 miles. In addition, it is a good
idea to change the oil and filter at the completion
of break-in (about 1,500 miles) to ensure that all of
the particles produced during break-in are
removed from the lubrication system. The small
added expense may be considered a smart
investment that will pay off in increased engine
life.
i have redone both cylinders 130 psi in the front and 140 and the rear.
I added the swing arm back on after cleaning it up a little.
I'm about to sand the frame and create a new sub-frame.
i want to buy some $30 ebay clipons, has anyone everyone bought ebay clip on??? the are 1/3 of the price of the ones in the US. Is there really that big of difference in quality??
I added the swing arm back on after cleaning it up a little.
I'm about to sand the frame and create a new sub-frame.
i want to buy some $30 ebay clipons, has anyone everyone bought ebay clip on??? the are 1/3 of the price of the ones in the US. Is there really that big of difference in quality??
what did you do about the badly worn cam and followers ?
30 doller clipons lol you have to ask ?
you shouldn't be buying anything other than engine parts at this time
you dont need clipons to get the bike on the road and all checked out.besides clipons will not be worth a darn for street riding
30 doller clipons lol you have to ask ?
you shouldn't be buying anything other than engine parts at this time
you dont need clipons to get the bike on the road and all checked out.besides clipons will not be worth a darn for street riding
ao32 said:
My pal just bought a set of Chinese. / whatever alloy clip ons for £28.00 - excellent quality .......... I'd use 'em !!
beachcomber said:
I've bought a few sets of Pazzo copy levers from China for different bikes over the years. The first set I bought was to replace a set of genuine Pazzos to sell a bike. I seriously couldn't tell the difference (apart from no Pazzo logo).
Point is the Chinese are pretty good at copying simple billet stuff.
