Xs750 not starting after changing handle bars

jxcktheripper

New Member
Hey everyone, brand new to the site and just bought an xs750 last night. I don't know what went wrong.. All I did was swap out the stock bars with a more cafe style bar. The bike was working relatively fine prior to this and started up no problem. I unscrewed everything and slid all the controls off and then back onto the new bars. The cables are a bit long for the new handle bars but I got everything back on and bolted down and was gonna take it for a test ride but it wouldn't start. All the electrics still work (lights, signals, gauges etc.) but the starter button won't start. I kick started it after a few tries but started at a really high rpm and I smelled like a burning smell so I turned it off. I'm pretty new to bikes and really bummed that this is happening, if anyone can help I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
 

Bozz

New Member
Some handlebar controls ground THROUGH the bars, so be aware if your risers attach with rubber vibration isolators (many Yamahas do) the handlebars may not be electrically connected to the chassis ground. Often there is a washer on the bottom of the riser mount with a wire that connects back into the harness to bring the ground connection to the bars. You may have disturbed this during your bar upgrade.


This is one possibility. There are others. Electrics are all about details and logic. Patience is key.


Good Luck!
 

plagrone

New Member
Another possibility is that when you were changing the bars, you strained the wiring and ripped the starter button wire out of its solder or connector, and that the high-revving and burning smell could just be psychological ;D
 

jxcktheripper

New Member
Thanks bozz that might be the problem. I just tried kick starting it and it started but it still revs at a high rpm there's a burning smell that wast there before? Any ideas?
 

Maritime

Well-Known Member
the High RPM's sounds like the now too long throttle cable is binding and your cable is not letting the throttle close completely, the burning smell could be another wire or cable that is now too long making contact to a hotspot like exhaust etc. When you lower bars you need to make sure the cables run smoothly without any sharp bends etc. Shorter cables and new zip ties for wires to keep them out of harms way is best. IF short t-cable and clutch cables are too expensive, make sure you check the runs and re-run them differently to keep the bends smooth and check for binding when you steer full lock to lock etc. and if starter button is broke you can test it in less then 30 secs with the conductivety/resistance part of your multi-meter, put a contact on each wire going in and out of the button, push button does meter move? no look for a broken wire or contact, if meter shows a change, button is good, move to the next place there is a connection, rincse repeat.
 

jxcktheripper

New Member
Maritime said:
the High RPM's sounds like the now too long throttle cable is binding and your cable is not letting the throttle close completely, the burning smell could be another wire or cable that is now too long making contact to a hotspot like exhaust etc. When you lower bars you need to make sure the cables run smoothly without any sharp bends etc. Shorter cables and new zip ties for wires to keep them out of harms way is best. IF short t-cable and clutch cables are too expensive, make sure you check the runs and re-run them differently to keep the bends smooth and check for binding when you steer full lock to lock etc. and if starter button is broke you can test it in less then 30 secs with the conductivety/resistance part of your multi-meter, put a contact on each wire going in and out of the button, push button does meter move? no look for a broken wire or contact, if meter shows a change, button is good, move to the next place there is a connection, rincse repeat.
That really cleared up a lot of questions I had. Thanks man!
 

Maritime

Well-Known Member
Yep your throttle cable is bent way too much that will make the reving issue, also your starter probably doesn't work cause the bars are painted and Yamaha grounds controls on the bars, sand paint off under the controls and that should fix it. your cable needs to gently arc, tight curves are a no no.
 

Maritime

Well-Known Member
You will have to disconect the throttle and likely clutch cable and find a new route for them. the 2 red circles are real bad bends for the throttle. Also the loop on your clutch cable is too tight as well
 

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jxcktheripper

New Member
Maritime said:
Yep your throttle cable is bent way too much that will make the reving issue, also your starter probably doesn't work cause the bars are painted and Yamaha grounds controls on the bars, sand paint off under the controls and that should fix it. your cable needs to gently arc, tight curves are a no no.
ah! I knew it! Lol my gf was saying that last night too but I being stubborn and a man and trying to force it -_- ahaha thanks man! I'm just gonna switch them back until I can actually get it done properly. Do you know how much that might cost at a shop?
 

Maritime

Well-Known Member
not really, I do all my own stuff, make mistakes, learn, fix, move on LOL. I would look into if there were other models of the bike that came with lower bars from the factory and get the cables for that bike, or Motion Pro can make up cables. Really not hard to re-route the current, just make gentle arcs, not tight turns. I used the full length cables on my GL but put much lower bars what I did was make the cables go out away from the bars then curved them back towards the frame and crossed them over to the opposite side they were originally on and that made the difference. If I get the chance I will take a pic to show you what I mean.
 

plagrone

New Member
jxcktheripper said:
ah! I knew it! Lol my gf was saying that last night too but I being stubborn and a man and trying to force it -_- ahaha thanks man! I'm just gonna switch them back until I can actually get it done properly. Do you know how much that might cost at a shop?
Don't do thaaaaaaaat, it's easy. You've already done most of the hard work. All you have to do is disconnect some cables and reroute them, slide the right controls off a bit and sand where they contact the bars.

Besides, shops are too expensive
 

jxcktheripper

New Member
Hahaha that's a way to do it! I just wish I had more tools and a shop to learn in lol and alright I'll try that. All of this stuff is like another language right now I'm gonna try to get a friend of mine to help as well! Thanks again for the help man I really appreciate it. I'll keep you updated about the progress too!
 
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