xb33bsa said:dont ferget to retorque the heads when cooled
i dunno about the case half bolts hey moby is that ever done or needed retorque case half nuts after a few heat cycles ?
stecken,you come a long way,awesome work man, you done proud
i dint think so but pardon the hijak ryan but i must pik mobies brainjpmobius said:Never experienced case bolts/nuts needing re-torquing. Cylinder head nuts need several re-torques and heat cycles. Often very hard to keep sealed with stock gasket and decent compression.
Looking good Ryan - fender looks much improved cut back.
teazer said:Ryan,
You have made great progress on that bike and getting it sorted. Congrats.
ride it man enjoy don't forget about the balance that is the exact correct springs and settings front to rear static and sag when laden with riderRyan Stecken said:Thanks teazer!I try to roll with the punches!
I will soon post a video how she pulls when I get to borrow a Go Pro!
As for the case bolts,I torqued them once when I reassembled the 250 1 1/2 seasons back,checked them yesterday and they still or torqued properly.
Head nuts will need retorque, i realised that the Inner nuts tend to "break loose" more easily....could be the higher heat between the cylinders.
Oh yeah, the bike seems to slighlty have a slipperly clutch between 8500 and 9000k,which I wont bother to worry about,I try to keep out of that area for the crank´s sake.I´m using Motul 10W30 motorcycle gear oil.
IMO it just means that I´ve done well on tuning the engine....
Next up will be:
-Checking the timing
-Changing sprocket from 15t to 16t
-Building a main stand for servicing
-Riding
yep i was wondering about the placing of it is it dead center in the margin of contact ?jpmobius said:O-rings are definitely the hot ticket. Buna-N has too low a max temp. Viton is generally preferred I think though there are o-ring materials available with much greater temperature resistance. I have never used any of the exotic materials but imagine they are expensive. I have some Viton o-rings here somewhere but couldn't find them to get the exact specs but you can get them from McMaster-Carr. Absolutely 100% seal, and seemingly infinitely reusable, though no doubt there is a limit. Obviously you have to cut a groove for them but since the head sits directly on the cylinder, you don't have to take into account a head gasket dimension when setting up the squish and chamber. Really nice to be able to pop off the heads whenever you want and not need any new gaskets.
Chillout xb!xb33bsa said:that is bitchen stecken toe-tally bitchen
but do you Schluchtenscheisser's park right in the road often ? do that in america near city folk,chances are high u get yer ass run over by an impaired driver ! and not just an oriental neather, could be a drunk or drug impaired individual or a pack of male dancers on bicycles
Tune-A-Fish said:Room temp water... heat until just about to turn orange and toss in water... done.
Not all need to be annealed some are soft already tho... you might check with gasket maker
it the heat cycles with slow cooling that harden up the copperjpmobius said:Yep. Should be ready to go when new - though no harm done annealing them anyway assuming they are just soft copper and intended to be used in their annealed state. They harden up when clamped down under the head, and likely won't be soft enough to reseal on a second use which is why you need to anneal them every time you take the heads off.
xb33bsa said:just ride it
unless you can here it and literally see fire
but a tiny bit of seapage wont stop you from riding
no harm will come and it is not affecting the tune,how would it ?