Yamaha RD 250 Clutch Plate Confusion

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

hey forum!

yesterday i assembled my clutch on my overhauled RD motor.

heres the question:manual,workshop manual contradict themselves in the order of the clutch plates.

even the words in comparison to the depicted pictures contradict.

so the supposedly "wrong" manuals say that i should start with a metal pad,then a rubber ring then the friction pads....
since there are only 6 metal pads this would mean that on the outside of the clutch there would be two friction pads meeting just with a rubber ring...SO A SAY THATS TOTAL CRAP. 8)

took out my laptop and looked up the old pics from the tear down of the motor...and the pictures showd that the last pad was a friction pad which met the pressure pad (and in between the rubber ring).

so the order from beginning was Friction,rubber,steel.......

am i getting this wrong or did i make a mistake?the clutch looks 100 per cent identically to the former setup.
maybe the PO fucked up.

 

[jpmobius]

From memory, 7 friction plates (the bigger ones with splines fitting into the basket), 7 damper rings ( rubber ) and 6 drive plates (all metal with splines on the inside that mesh with the hub). First piece is a friction plate. Damper ring goes next and fits inside the friction plate. Drive plate next. Repeat 5 times. Friction plate and damper again last. Inspect the friction plates closely for cracks or breaks. Drive plate MUST be perfectly flat and not badly discolored from heat. Damper rings are for vibration or helping separate plates depending on who you ask, but you probably won't notice a difference if you leave them out. I use them on street bikes. Don't forget to install the "pusher" under the clutch cover (pressure plate). Most covers have markings that line up with similar on the basket. Do NOT use any form of impact on the 6 spring retaining screws. Blue loctite and tighten by hand with the correct screwdriver. Looks like you may have the incorrect washer under the hub nut. It should be a belville washer like on the crank.

 

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

From memory, 7 friction plates (the bigger ones with splines fitting into the basket), 7 damper rings ( rubber ) and 6 drive plates (all metal with splines on the inside that mesh with the hub). First piece is a friction plate. Damper ring goes next and fits inside the friction plate. Drive plate next. Repeat 5 times. Friction plate and damper again last. Inspect the friction plates closely for cracks or breaks. Drive plate MUST be perfectly flat and not badly discolored from heat. Damper rings are for vibration or helping separate plates depending on who you ask, but you probably won't notice a difference if you leave them out. I use them on street bikes. Don't forget to install the "pusher" under the clutch cover (pressure plate). Most covers have markings that line up with similar on the basket. Do NOT use any form of impact on the 6 spring retaining screws. Blue loctite and tighten by hand with the correct screwdriver. Looks like you may have the incorrect washer under the hub nut. It should be a belville washer like on the crank.

hey mobius...once again you were a big big help!thank you for your always perfect answers.

the friction paltes were new.steel plates showed no decoloration or bend.

whit the "pusher" you mean the "mushroom" formed steel inlet before the pressure plate closes everything dont you?

the pressure plate has a small arrow which aligns with another arrow on the plate basket.

since the manual says nothing about that i didnt use loctite,but i torqued the springscrews right with my torque wrench.

the washer MUST be ok,i took the original one,it has a "tongue", which grasps a little slot where the nut meets the basket-middle plus one side is bent upwards to prevent the nut from spinning.


are you familiar with the installation of the generator of this model ??maybe you can help:
thread:

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=60765.msg689777#msg689777

thank you in advance!!!!

 

[jpmobius]

Ryan,

Yes, the pusher is the mushroom shaped part. The pressure plate has marks that align with the basket. There are a variety of marks, but they should be aligned. They do need to be aligned to ensure that the interior splines align with the hub. It is possible to align the spring bosses and have the PP sit on top of the splines and of course, the clutch will not work. I think most people would realize something is wrong if that were the case, but the marks make it fool proof if you notice them there. No loctite should be fine. And, it sounds like the washer you have is correct. I have not seen a US model with this type of lock washer, but your description sounds like the right thing and your pic backs it up as well.

 

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

Ryan,

Yes, the pusher is the mushroom shaped part. The pressure plate has marks that align with the basket. There are a variety of marks, but they should be aligned. They do need to be aligned to ensure that the interior splines align with the hub. It is possible to align the spring bosses and have the PP sit on top of the splines and of course, the clutch will not work. I think most people would realize something is wrong if that were the case, but the marks make it fool proof if you notice them there. No loctite should be fine. And, it sounds like the washer you have is correct. I have not seen a US model with this type of lock washer, but your description sounds like the right thing and your pic backs it up as well.

thanks mobius!my RD has many "singularities"...for example totally different brakes then the RD´s before since its the last model of the aircooled ones...LAST SCREAM OF THE 2 STROKE ;-)

 

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

So long time no see.

Motor back in frame,clutch installed.
Clutch shifts trough gears but ooooh my its hard as f.

Is it normal that a fresh clutch is so hard to pull or is it just maladjusted since the old clutch configuration was broken?

Cheers from austria!

 

[xb33bsa]

So long time no see.

Motor back in frame,clutch installed.
Clutch shifts trough gears but ooooh my its hard as f.

Is it normal that a fresh clutch is so hard to pull or is it just maladjusted since the old clutch configuration was broken?

Cheers from austria!

you may have one too many plates a steel plate is not used against the pressure plate the aluminum surface is against the friction
shifting through the gears is not related to the clutch they are seperate functions

 

[jpmobius]

If you have an extra plate, xb may be right, but I wonder how you would end up with an extra. Unless your clutch is different, it is 7 friction and 6 drive, (just had one apart the other day!) as noted previously. Seems like I remember the assembly is screwy if you have extra or fewer anything. Possibly there is a cable issue? RD's have a "medium" clutch pull stock IMHO. Maybe an issue with the drive mechanism under the left case cover? I have some pretty stiff springs in one of my go-fast bikes, and it IS a hard pull, but stock should not be anything note worthy. I any event, there is no effect from the clutch being new or recently put together. It should be good to go the first drive around the block. How was it "broken" previously?