Yamaha Rearset!

[Gordon]

Okay, I've extended the tank already. This means that the rearsets have to come way back. And the optimum position seems to be the rear footpegs. Problem is that there are no mounting points for the gear lever and brake pedal. So this is what I thought.

Replacing those small brackets that have been welded to the rod with a larger one.

Gear Lever (Before)

Gear Lever (After)

Brake Side (Before)

Brake Side (After)

 

[Tim]

Gordon - RAASK or Tarozzi (and other) rearsets have the levers integrated into the pegs themselves, mounting on the same bolt. Any modern rearset from a sportbike could be made to work - check out the other threads in the Rearsets section of the board for ideas.

 

[Gordon]

Tim, the Tarozzi rearsets are cool, but quite expensive. They cost around $500. I don't want to spend that kind of money on a $210 bike. I'll try to make my own rearsets that would look and function well, but be quite cheaper to build.

 

[Tim]

Gordon - Tarozzi or RAASK levers should cost nowhere near $500. For $300 or so you get a complete kit that is specific to your bike.

For much much much less you can get just the levers/footpegs. I believe I have a set of RAASK levers at home - the parts circled in red in the drawing below. I paid $40 for them and you can have them for that + shipping. They combine the footpeg and lever on a single bolt, that should bolt into your stock rear footpeg mounts. Then it's just the linkage from the levers to the shifter/brake mechanisms on the bike.

 

[Tim]

Now - are your rear footpegs bolted to the frame? Or are they welded right on?

 

[Gordon]

The footpegs are welded on. But no issues. That small bracket will be cut off that L-rod and a larger triangle bracket will take its place. New footpegs will be BOLETD on. The gear side is very easy, but the brake side seems to be confusing.

There is not much of place to mount the pedal, because it touches the silencer if I take it lower. So the play is very little.

Could anyone tell me whats the distance between the top of your seat and the footpeg?!

 

[locOleoN]

The footpegs are welded on. But no issues. That small bracket will be cut off that L-rod and a larger triangle bracket will take its place. New footpegs will be BOLETD on. The gear side is very easy, but the brake side seems to be confusing.

There is not much of place to mount the pedal, because it touches the silencer if I take it lower. So the play is very little.

I had that same problem when I mounted the R6 brake pedal on my cb550f. When pressed, the brake pedal would hit the muffler..
I solved that probem by:
1. heating up the rear brake pedal stem and bending it a bit to clear the muffler:

2. Used some metal washers between the bracket and the footpeg to give it more clearance away from the muffler. And it works like a charm, although not as "pretty", it sure works perfectly, that I can lock the rear tire up if I slam it hard and it still clears the muffler

 

[Gordon]

heating up the rear brake pedal stem and bending it a bit to clear the muffler

If I do that, the kick pedal would touch it.

I was thinking of using a simple small gear lever on the brake side. It will help clear the kick pedal too.

Noel, whats the length between the footpeg and the height of the seat?!

 

[56cbr600rr]

Now you should try to bend the front part back to the left a little like an "S". It will look more complete/finished if you do that. just looks damaged/but functional now.

I had that same problem when I mounted the R6 brake pedal on my cb550f. When pressed, the brake pedal would hit the muffler..
I solved that probem by:
1. heating up the rear brake pedal stem and bending it a bit to clear the muffler:

2. Used some metal washers between the bracket and the footpeg to give it more clearance away from the muffler. And it works like a charm, although not as "pretty", it sure works perfectly, that I can lock the rear tire up if I slam it hard and it still clears the muffler

 

[Gordon]

Stage 1 is complete.
Got the brackets welded. We didnt keep them low like I planned, because it'd mess very badly with the silencer. I just hope they aren't too high and uncomfortable now.

As planned:

As done:

Now I'd need to take proper measurements for both sides and drill holes for the footpeg, gear lever and brake pedal. Problem is that the bike has been completely opened up for sanding and painting.

 

[Gordon]

Did a small drawing in Photoshop. I was wondering in what manner should I drill holes into the brackets. This is just a thought.

 

[Gordon]

Okay here is a pic of the linkage I tried. Its rubbish. It bends a lot and is not very functional and the brake lever is far too high to operate. Tried using another thicker rod which solved the bending problem, but not the lever angle problem. Its just straight instead of being at an angle downwards.

 

[locOleoN]

Hey Gordon,
You might find that you have less bend if you route the brake rod like in the pic.
ALso, how about lowering where the brake rod connects to the actuator?

 

[Gordon]

Thought of that, but discarded it immediately. The distance is too short AND the rod touches the bracket when you depress the brake lever. Which is why I had to work around the other way.

 

[locOleoN]

Why not a Cable set up like on Intrudin's xs650?.. (similar to what is on the Norton & BSA)
He has pics on his bike build... Its very sexy.

 

[Gordon]

Any link that I can follow......

 

[locOleoN]

Any link that I can follow......

just PM Roustabout and ask him to send you the link or pics.

 

[Roustabout]

Check out this thread... scroll down a bit. It shows a rear brake cable setup.

http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=1824.msg30269#msg30269

 

[Gordon]

Thanks Roustabout! You are very talented and seems like you've got the equipment for it to fabricate parts. Your brackets looks very slick and the worksmanship on the exhaust was top notch! Couldn't find any pictures of the rear brake hub. Wanted to get an idea of how the cable is connected there.

P.S. My bad, found them on the first page! Thanks again!