Yes, another CB360 Project - BRGT

Wangofree

Member
Yep, another CB360 sucker, er, project. I've made my introduction on the new member page, but thought I was far along enough to start my project thread, so, here goes. . .

Here's my inspiration for this build - British Racing Green with Tan interior (seat). I've always been partial to the Jaguar's and MG's that have that color combination.



Overall I'm thinking of a gloss black frame, bright non painted motor, polished engine case, BRG color for the tank and fenders, and a light tan seat, not as orange as the one pictured, but close.

Well, here's what $400 gets you. . .



Tank has one small dent, engine was seized, no throttle, sitting for 20 years in a guys shed, and one supportive wife.

After tearing her down, this was the reason for the seized motor:



2 days of penetrating oil, a torch and a rubber mallet the piston was free. Gave me the first look at the valves:



Man, it just got better and better. But, it's amazing how much "good" metal resides under rust. After a trip through the wire wheel, things cleaned up nice. I was also fortunate to have access to a big sonic cleaner.



Like sonicare on your teeth, this sonic cleaner really helped clean things up quickly. It didn't do all the work, but got a lot of the gum and varnish off the inside of the cases.

One thing I'm not looking forward to is the wiring. I won't have a starter motor, and I've ordered a plug from CrazyPJ. I've also sent the carbs to him for a tuneup. What a mess. . .



Although this photo doesn't show it, the frame is now completely stripped of paint and detabbed.



I've started stripping the tank. This stuff is wicked nasty, especially if you get some on your skin!



I starting cleaning up the cylinder walls, but discovered that the piston that was rusted to it has created a large gouge. I could have it bored out, but then I'd have to get larger pistons and rings. I already ordered a new set of 67mm rings, so I decided to order a new set of jugs off eBay that are standard size, but in better shape. I'll save these if I decide to bore them out in the future.



While waiting on the new jugs, carbs from PJ, and odds and ends I've been practising my polishing technique. Here's what I've got so far, shiny bits. . .





That's it for now until I start to reassemble the motor. But, before I do I need to seal everything with Shark Hide.

Mike
 

sphynx88

New Member
I WANTED TO DO THE SAME COLOR SCHEME!

I chickened out but I am looking forward to seeing where this is going.
 

Wangofree

Member
Yeah sphynx I hope it turns out what I have in mind. Here's an ugly photoshop of what I'm toying with. The colors are not right, but you get the idea.

 

vtwin650

New Member
Nice Polishing work and overall Project!

If you want a stock throttle tube (with vintage grip)
I have several, you just pay shipping :)
 

Wangofree

Member
vtwin650 said:
Nice Polishing work and overall Project!

If you want a stock throttle tube (with vintage grip)
I have several, you just pay shipping :)
Thanks vtwin on the polishing. Have to thank all the good folks who've written guides - Polishing 101 - on this forum. The parts definitely look better in photo than real life. But, I don't mind a little "patina". Not trying to make them look brand new, just clean and bright.

I am definitely interested in a stock throttle tube. PM and I'll Paypal shipping.
Thanks.
Mike
 
S

sovern

Guest
wow those valves are still usable after cleaning? I'm curious to know what they look like now after you cleaned them - pictures? Love the color scheme idea. Tan leather makes for really nice seats. You could probably get the exact hex-code of the racing team (and tweak it by 1 digit for legal reasons) which might be nice. Just a thought. Nice job on the polishing.
 

Wangofree

Member
Matthew said:
wow those valves are still usable after cleaning? I'm curious to know what they look like now after you cleaned them - pictures?




They aren't in too bad a shape. I need to see if they pass the acetone test and decide what to do if they leak.
Thanks for the suggestion on the color Matt.

Mike
 

Wangofree

Member
The frame and tank are stripped. I think it's always tempting to just cover it with clear and call it good, but that might be for a future project.



Man, my garage is a MESS! I need to get things organized before I move on to putting the motor back together.

Mike
 
S

sovern

Guest
metal finish is so nice - I'm tempted to go buy a spare tank that doesn't have bondo and strip/clearcoat it.
 

trek97

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
Wangofree said:
That's it for now until I start to reassemble the motor. But, before I do I need to seal everything with Shark Hide.

Mike
Just what is this "Shark Hide" you speak of? Found it on Eastwood.com, very very interesting. Do You have experience using this product w aluminum that is exposed to this sort of heat?
 
S

sovern

Guest
trek97 said:
Just what is this "Shark Hide" you speak of? Found it on Eastwood.com, very very interesting. Do You have experience using this product w aluminum that is exposed to this sort of heat?
Interesting, I just looked it up on sharkhide.com. Never heard of this stuff before but looks really nice. I wonder how it applies over paint and whether its necessary or not. Do you have experience with this stuff on bikes Wango?
 

Wangofree

Member
Trek -
I may have mispoke about using it on "everything". I've used it on aluminum sided trailers and it does a great job protecting the finish from oxidation. I've decided to put it on parts of the casing covers to see what happens.

HOWEVER, I do NOT recommend applying on engine parts that get super hot. The boiling point of this product is 215 F in its' wet state. Not sure how well it holds up on a hot motor after it has cured.

It goes on wet and leaves a protective coating and time will tell how good it protects on the pieces I've chosen to use it on. Because it's pricey stuff I would definitely get other opinions before you buy some.

Mike
 
S

sovern

Guest
Wangofree said:
Trek -
I may have mispoke about using it on "everything". I've used it on aluminum sided trailers and it does a great job protecting the finish from oxidation. I've decided to put it on parts of the casing covers to see what happens.

HOWEVER, I do NOT recommend applying on engine parts that get super hot. The boiling point of this product is 215 F in its' wet state. Not sure how well it holds up on a hot motor after it has cured.

It goes on wet and leaves a protective coating and time will tell how good it protects on the pieces I've chosen to use it on. Because it's pricey stuff I would definitely get other opinions before you buy some.

Mike
definitely keep us updated on this product once you have clocked some miles. It's made of resins and solvents - the solvents dissipate immediately on application (or so it says on their webpage). I don't see any heat warnings on the webpage.
 

Wangofree

Member
Matthew said:
Interesting, I just looked it up on sharkhide.com. Never heard of this stuff before but looks really nice. I wonder how it applies over paint and whether its necessary or not. Do you have experience with this stuff on bikes Wango?
Matt -
It was designed to protect aluminum hulls. It is classified as an acidic cleaner protectorant. I don't think it would do well over paint.

Play it safe and do more research.

Mike
 

trek97

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
Wangofree said:
Trek -
I may have mispoke about using it on "everything". I've used it on aluminum sided trailers and it does a great job protecting the finish from oxidation. I've decided to put it on parts of the casing covers to see what happens.

HOWEVER, I do NOT recommend applying on engine parts that get super hot. The boiling point of this product is 215 F in its' wet state. Not sure how well it holds up on a hot motor after it has cured.

It goes on wet and leaves a protective coating and time will tell how good it protects on the pieces I've chosen to use it on. Because it's pricey stuff I would definitely get other opinions before you buy some.

Mike
If you have a little time and a few small aluminum parts just lying around maybe you need to perform some heat tests. coat, dry, place in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes...then another at 350, and so on.
 

Wangofree

Member
trek97 said:
If you have a little time and a few small aluminum parts just lying around maybe you need to perform some heat tests. coat, dry, place in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes...then another at 350, and so on.
Yeah after painting my original jugs black with VHT 2000 F paint and curing it in our oven for 6 hours - and smelling up the house - there's no way my wife will let me near the oven again! :eek:

Not a bad idea for a test though Trek.
 

trek97

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
Wangofree said:
Yeah after painting my original jugs black with VHT 2000 F paint and curing it in our oven for 6 hours - and smelling up the house - there's no way my wife will let me near the oven again! :eek:

Not a bad idea for a test though Trek.
LOL youre ole lady just needs to learn to tough it out for LOVE. Of course, mine thinks this is my best idea ever!



 

trek97

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
Ill check w alpha...maybe he has tried this stuff. He found clearcoat didnt do the trick. So, hes been powdering polished parts for a while now. could you send me a link to the exact product you are using...or did I have the right stuff I found on eastwood?
 

Wangofree

Member
trek97 said:
could you send me a link to the exact product you are using...or did I have the right stuff I found on eastwood?
http://www.sharkhide.com/mpinfo.html

Under "Products" I have the "Metal Protectant". I haven't tried the spray can, just have the quart can.

Yeah, I thought about using the dishwasher, but I hate doing dishes. Seriously, I have access to a sonic cleaner which works so much better. I'm saving up my "good husband" points so I can reassemble my motor on the kitchen table this winter. ;D
 

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