Yet another SR250 Tracker UK Build

Well I picked this little thing up for £300 with a full years MOT and 6 months tax.


Untitled by eastham_david, on Flickr


was a bit oily, looked like it had never been cleaned

P1050488 by eastham_david, on Flickr

My biggest concern was this exhaust stud was loose, looks like a heli-coil is called for and a new stud.

P1050492 by eastham_david, on Flickr

Stripped it down so far to this and started to try and clean the years worth of chain lube off the rear wheel.

P1050497 by eastham_david, on Flickr

Got the inspiration form the Autofabrica SR250 and the Orange 'Mexico' one off here that SteveG posted.

Hopefully it will turn out similar to those.
 
Wiring loom removed, and next the motor.

20141226_202233 by eastham_david, on Flickr

Whoever had the bike before me must have never cleaned around the front sprocket area, it's got 1/2 inch thick of oil and chain lube on it.

20141226_204845 by eastham_david, on Flickr


While I'm posting on here, how easy/difficult is it to reduce the fork length/travel. If I go with std fitting bars rather than clip-ons, I can only drop the forks by about an inch, before they interfere with the handlebars.

I may just be able to get the tank and fwd portion of the seat on an horizontal level, but I may have to resort to lowering the forks. The other option is to drop them a lot further in the clamps and fit clip-ons.

advice on the fork lowering would be much appreciated.

Ta

Dave
 
I'm after a bit of help please?


Just come back from the workshop who will be aquablasting the cyclinder head and barrel and he says it will be much better if I can remove the valves, cam and followers.


I can see that the follower pins are installed from one end only, and have a threaded (M6) hole in them, but can some body tell me the best way the remove them so I can get the followers out of the head please?

Thanks in advance

Dave
 

hillsy

Active Member
vortexracing said:
I'm after a bit of help please?


Just come back from the workshop who will be aquablasting the cyclinder head and barrel and he says it will be much better if I can remove the valves, cam and followers.


I can see that the follower pins are installed from one end only, and have a threaded (M6) hole in them, but can some body tell me the best way the remove them so I can get the followers out of the head please?

Thanks in advance

Dave





You need to use a slide hammer to remove them. M6 bolts in the pins and "knock" them out with the slide hammer.
 

zap2504

Member
vortexracing said:
I may just be able to get the tank and fwd portion of the seat on an horizontal level, but I may have to resort to lowering the forks. The other option is to drop them a lot further in the clamps and fit clip-ons.
What I've done with mine (so far) is to use 13" shocks (originally for an XS650) and a spacer block to raise the rear of the tank so it is horizontal. The seat I'm currently working with (a XR tracker knock-off) will then be mounted horizontally with the tank. I did not want to make any permanent changes in case a future owner wanted to restore it back, so I did not change the front forks nor did I want to reduce front suspension travel - but depending on what I see I might raise them slightly in the triples.
 
Sorted !!!

Thanks , had a good think over a couple of beers last night, and decided to have a go at making a pulley. I don't have a small slide hammer.

3mm thick steel strip with a 6mm hole in it and 4 different lengths of 6mm bolts and they both came out easily in the end. :)

Didn't even need to heat them up

20150222_163029 by eastham_david, on Flickr

My next thought was about the cam ???

But a quick pull and wiggle and the whole lot came out. It only left the roller bearing in the far end.

20150222_165013 by eastham_david, on Flickr

I'll pop into the aquablasters this week and see if he thinks that will be OK left in, I don't fancy trying to get that out :eek:

I suppose I could always try and mask it in some way, just to keep the abrasive stuff out as much as possible.

Has anybody removed that inset bearing and re-fitted one, if so how did you do it.?

Anyway, all out and ready to go except that bearing and I need to find somebody with a small spring compressor then the Valves can come out.

20150222_165033 by eastham_david, on Flickr

Here is the offending stud that needs a clean and re-weld, then tapping, the previous owner must have known it was blowing, the whole area is black around the exhaust port.

20150222_164940 by eastham_david, on Flickr

Head and Piston/barrel look good, the motor looks like it's in really good condition, apart from that stud. ::)

20150222_164946 by eastham_david, on Flickr

20150222_165001 by eastham_david, on Flickr


Lastly, I'm assuming those pivot pins will need new o rings? am I correct?


Thanks for your help , it's really appreciated.

What I've done with mine (so far) is to use 13" shocks (originally for an XS650) and a spacer block to raise the rear of the tank so it is horizontal. The seat I'm currently working with (a XR tracker knock-off) will then be mounted horizontally with the tank. I did not want to make any permanent changes in case a future owner wanted to restore it back, so I did not change the front forks nor did I want to reduce front suspension travel - but depending on what I see I might raise them slightly in the triples.
I'm looking to lower the front mounts on the frame as well as maybe lift the rear of the tank. Re-sale is not on my agenda at all.


Cheers

Dave
 

zap2504

Member
vortexracing said:
I'm looking to lower the front mounts on the frame as well as maybe lift the rear of the tank. Re-sale is not on my agenda at all.
Understood - but if you are doing a "tracker" (as opposed to a "cafe racer") you would want to work toward a more upright seating position (e.g., higher/flatter handlebars - I'm planning on using ones from a KLR650; higher/flatter seat) with as much suspension travel (for rougher roads) as possible. Lowering the front suspension and using clip-ons will reduce suspension travel and create a more "crouched" riding position.
 

zap2504

Member
cosworth said:
I think even a tracker needs the front end quickened from the stock cruiser, soft as butter front end.
I tend to agree, but would prefer (again, for a "tracker") to use the previously-suggested CB/CL360 or CB400F front springs and slightly heavier fork oil VS reducing fork travel.
 
Understood - but if you are doing a "tracker" (as opposed to a "cafe racer") you would want to work toward a more upright seating position (e.g., higher/flatter handlebars - I'm planning on using ones from a KLR650; higher/flatter seat) with as much suspension travel (for rougher roads) as possible. Lowering the front suspension and using clip-ons will reduce suspension travel and create a more "crouched" riding position.
I understand what you are saying, the truth is I may be leaning towards a café racer after all, people do a lot of SR's as trackers, I may venture into the other café style. I may be asking the mods to move the thread to the café listings ::)


I have to agree with cosworth, regardless of style the forks either need dropping in the clamps or better still shortening.

Thanks for the advice on shortening them cosworth, I'll have a go at it.

I may be back for more advice if I do :-[

Wheels
Tyres off the rims yesterday, I had always wanted to have black rims and hubs with stainless spokes, but the cost seems way to prohibitive at the moment (circ £500!!!)

So after discussions with the guys at fastline parts in Leyland, England he suggested aquablasting the spokes and giving them a clear coat of lacquer. It may not win any concourse events but will look OK. The outside of the chrome rim is in great condition, the insides however require some cleaning up ::)

20150222_184153 by eastham_david, on Flickr

20150222_184159 by eastham_david, on Flickr

20150222_184232 by eastham_david, on Flickr

20150222_184208 by eastham_david, on Flickr

20150222_184216 by eastham_david, on Flickr



Ta

Dave
 

cosworth

New Member
With my spacer to lower the forks I can barely compress the springs to get the cap back in. Plenty of resistance on these forks now.
 
Just dropped my head, barrel and crankcase covers off at fastline parts in Leyland in the UK.

Graham the owner and the most enthusiastic guy I have met in a long time :)

Posted a before and after on FB

Before





After

 

twade76

New Member
Looks good, I really want to get my engine done like this but can't face the strip-down until I absolutely have to do it!
 

DTT Bike Of The Month Gallery

DTT Light or Dark

www.cognitomoto.com
https://www.townmoto.com
www.speedmotoco.com
www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
www.lostapostle.ca/
www.sparckmoto.com
Top Bottom