1970 Triumph Tiger 650

Filter don't solve rust in the tank, check your carbs after putting filter on it and i'll bet you that there will always be crap in your float bowl after some time. I've put brand new filters on and if your tank isn't perfect then it will end up there.
 
Tank is all better now, no more holes. I'll fill it with water tomorrow and put a couple lbs. of pressure and see if there are any residual leaks that need addressing and then powder coat it black to ready it for paint.

 
I think I will replace the front reservoir with a smaller one like the rear. As long as I keep an eye on it I don't think any more capacity is needed.
Swap this one:


For this one:
 
Front rotors on the Kimtab I bought turned out to be warped so today I bought these Ducati floating rotors for $60.


 
o1marc said:
I think I will replace the front reservoir with a smaller one like the rear. As long as I keep an eye on it I don't think any more capacity is needed.
Swap this one:


For this one:
Click to expand...


Just realized this may not work. I would have to mount the smaller one higher to keep the outlet below the master. That sucks because the tiny reservoirs can be had for less than $2 and I don't see a side exit one that small. Mounting it high would defeat the purpose of minimalizing the larger one.
 
kimjay said:
Filter don't solve rust in the tank, check your carbs after putting filter on it and i'll bet you that there will always be crap in your float bowl after some time. I've put brand new filters on and if your tank isn't perfect then it will end up there.
Click to expand...


This is true.


The paper filter ones do tend to filter out more crap than the gauze type but quite often they can restrict / block the flow in a gravity fed system (especially the car ones as they are always used with a fuel pump).
 
o1marc said:
Just realized this may not work. I would have to mount the smaller one higher to keep the outlet below the master. That sucks because the tiny reservoirs can be had for less than $2 and I don't see a side exit one that small. Mounting it high would defeat the purpose of minimalizing the larger one.
Click to expand...


These ones look pretty small:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Front-Brake-Clutch-Tank-Cylinder-Fluid-Oil-Reservoir-Motorcycle-Orange-/111775224595


Or try a clutch reservoir off a YZF750 or something similar - they are quite a bit smaller than a brake res.
 
hillsy said:
These ones look pretty small:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Front-Brake-Clutch-Tank-Cylinder-Fluid-Oil-Reservoir-Motorcycle-Orange-/111775224595


Or try a clutch reservoir off a YZF750 or something similar - they are quite a bit smaller than a brake res.
Click to expand...
Thanks Hillsy, that might just work. It's pretty modern looking but if I get it in Matte Black it will be non conspicuous.
 
o1marc said:
Just realized this may not work. I would have to mount the smaller one higher to keep the outlet below the master. That sucks because the tiny reservoirs can be had for less than $2 and I don't see a side exit one that small. Mounting it high would defeat the purpose of minimalizing the larger one.
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm not understanding what you're saying, but if you keep the bottom of the small reservoir at the same level as the bottom of the original you'll be fine. It doesn't matter how low the outlet is, unless the issue is it's hitting something. The hose routing might look hokey but the fluid level won't change between a bottom feed and a side feed.
 
DesmoDog said:
Maybe I'm not understanding what you're saying, but if you keep the bottom of the small reservoir at the same level as the bottom of the original you'll be fine. It doesn't matter how low the outlet is, unless the issue is it's hitting something. The hose routing might look hokey but the fluid level won't change between a bottom feed and a side feed.
Click to expand...

if I mount the small one in the same location I will need to route the feed line down and under the bars and then back up and a 90° angle to get it into the m/c. Just not the ideal look. Will the fluid syphon correctly if the exit is below the entrance to the m/c?
With the one Hillsy posted I could use just a piece of 1.5" long tubing to connect the res to the m/c and not have to hard mount the m/c at all.



 
I like this one and it comes with the 90° fitting to mount it directly to the m/c.


http://www.banggood.com/CNC-Aluminum-Universal-Motorcycle-Brake-Fluid-Oil-Reservoir-Cup-p-982051.html?currency=USD&createTmp=1&utm_source=ebay&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=saul&utm_campaign=motor-US&ebay

And so it is ordered.
 
So I finally decided to go with a 2000 TT600 rear caliper set up based on certain criteria, axle size, caliper clocking, ease of mounting method, and price. I found one of these for $18 with caliper and bracket and line. But it had worn out rusty pads and the bracket was painted black. I then found this one for $22.84 with good EBC pads with a "Make Offer" option. I offered them the $18 and they agreed. This helps save money that will need to be used in making the rotor carrier.
 
A little sumthin sumthin everyday. Got the master cylinder/exhuast/passenger peg mount finished in 1/4" steel plate today. Once powder coated it will look like a factory piece.






I need to pull the lever off the pedal and bend it 90° so the brake rod clears the frame.
 
Fark me, back to the drawing board. After all that work on the master cylinder bracket I get it all together knowing there was barely a safe clearance from the top of the master and the swing arm. I had just one shock with no spring on it locating the swing arm for mock up. After everything was bolted up and I was admiring my work I pulled up on the swing arm and then down to find that it was binding before and it just dropped another 1/2" and knocked the fitting off the top of the M/C. So now I have to lower it and hope there is enough meat left at the bottom of the bracket and refill the old holes now.

I decided the easiest fix was to just move it to the front of the plate. This will be 100% better mechanically as the rod is shorter and more parallel in operation than the extreme angle it was at the back side. I'll need to drill a hole through the pedal stop lever. I'll thread a brass fitting into the top of the m/c to accommodate the angle of the feed hose. I may have to raise the m/c a bit.


 
My Ducati rotors arrived today and turned out to be in better shape than I expected. I like the more open design of the carrier revealing a bunch more of the Kimtab than the Kimtab rotors did. At 320mm they are within 3mmof being too big and hitting the fender brackets. I would have preferred smaller rotors but at $60 shipped for this pair I couldn't pass them up.





 
Brodie said:
Well that aught to stop you quick.

Nice work Mark.
Click to expand...
They keep telling me how adequate the stock TLS brake is, but I just wanted this look. You can't really have too much brakes, just need to know how to use what you have. So far this build identically matches the picture in my head.

Fork tubes should be here tomorrow and I can be done with the front end until China gets my bearing carriers back and I can weld on the caliper brackets.
 


Slikwilli designing a rotor carrier for me.
Found the Triumph TT600 caliper and bracket to be too bulky and hit everything from the spokes to the shock absorber. I found a small Grimeca caliper in my box of brake parts and will use it. Just need to figure out a fore and aft adjustment bracket for the caliper.



No Bueno:
 
Those Ducati rotors really set off that front end. Puts it all together nicely.
 
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