1980 GL1100 "Orange Crush" build

Wow dudes, thanks for all the advice! I'm gonna follow all your advice to the "T".

New belts from Napa ordered today

Tensioners feel good, no play or grinding comming from them, so those will just get cleaned and stay in for the time being.

Talked with the guy that owned the bike before me, whos a bike mechanic, he said the cam seals looked good when he last changed the belts. I'm gonna order a new set anyways and replace them.

And looks like I'm gonna stay with the mechanical fuel pump, I'll get it all cleaned up, painted and reassembled back on the housing. in the next few days.

Glad I still have the original exhaust. I'll scope out that centerstand stop on the exhaust and start working on getting it cleaned up ready for reinstall.

Again, thanks for all you help and advice!!

-Matt
 
since you are going in there anyways put a new set of clutch springs in they are cheap insurance for a good long lasting clutch

and it only takes a few minutes to do it

replacing the clutch when 30 year old springs fail and burn up the clutch plates is a pain

i use these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-CSK-Clutch-Springs-Fits-Honda-GL-1100-Goldwing-Aspencade-1982-1983-/310621298540?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item485278df6c&vxp=mtr
 
Finally getting around to posting and update

Thermostat/cooling pipes painted
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Goodies came in the mail, new starter, solenoid, and cluth springs, along with the big rear case seal required for Stator replacement.
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And Pony, I finally got the side cover you sent me done...lol.
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Anyone need a super cleaned up upper triple? Its not gloss black anymore, it finished in satin black. Blasted down to metal, etched, sealed and painted.
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Hagon finally delivered the rear shocks, I'll post pics this weekend. Instrument cluster and key ignition is installed.

I saw that my coils are cracked, but the bike ran, and all the coild Ive seen on ebay have cracks in them too. Is that a death sentence or will i be okay for a while. The bike started right up and purred before I took her apart.

I promise i'll post pics this weekend. Working on the motor.

-Matt
 
Hoosier Daddy said:
Your cracked coils will most likely act up when you get caught in the rain...
Click to expand...

I need to look at mine I think as my girl gets cranky in heavy rain. I cleaned the drains and cleaned up electrical but my coils are original too. I wonder if you can use a high heat silicone to re-seal them instead of having to buy new if they still work??
 
i just toss them and fit a 1997 dodge neon coil pack i make a mounting bracket for it

then take out the ballast resistor if dyna equipped on the gl1000

use the gl plug caps and automotive 8 mm wires and you get awesome spark for cheap money
 
cxman said:
i just toss them and fit a 1997 dodge neon coil pack i make a mounting bracket for it

then take out the ballast resistor if dyna equipped on the gl1000

use the gl plug caps and automotive 8 mm wires and you get awesome spark for cheap money
Click to expand...

I think we are going to need to see a picture of that..
 
easy breezy here is a writeup

http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=41802
 
Problem, and I need some help guys!

Got the rear case off, stator replaced. But when i was getting the Distributor (im a car guy and have no clue what the motorcycle version is called) removed that one of the erturn springs is missing <see pic below>

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There were random broken coils inside the unit so it looks liekt he spring gave out sometime int he past. I havent been able to source replacement springs in the last 10 minutes. Anyone have a link to where I can order them or a solution to the problem?

Thanks!

-Matt
 
So I will chime in, here is the entire unit. I haven't torn into my GL yet so this is the best I can do until Hoosier Daddy chimes in..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3121-Honda-Goldwing-GL1000-GL-1000-Timing-Advance-Advancer-/130895919121?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7a013811&vxp=mtr
 
Hm. that's the ignition advance. You'll be need the exact right spring to get the advance curve right.


Have you posted this question to the NGW club forum? They would probably know better than most.
 
Great build. I am really impressed by your painting skill. And also appreciate your time taking photos of every step of painting.
 
You are going to get some differing opinions here but I'll offer mine and the masses be damned .
It isn't an ignition advance . There is no curve . For all intents and purposes it's a retard switch .
The only reason the mechanism exists at all is for starting .

So it's like this , Retarded to make the engine easier to start . Advanced for maximum power .
As long as the springs hold the weights in at idle and the weights are allowed to fully advance by approximately 2,200 all is right in the world .

Most GL's are not lugged below 2,200 and don't idle above 1,100 . So figure it out ....

here is a start http://www.centuryspring.com/Store/globalresults.php might be a little too much tension but it's a start .

~kop
 
Bozz said:
Hm. that's the ignition advance. You'll be need the exact right spring to get the advance curve right.


Have you posted this question to the NGW club forum? They would probably know better than most.
Click to expand...

Yea, everything here is cross posted there,a nd vise-versa. 1000 Dyna ignition wont work on a 1100. I found a reall nice complete ignition set on ebay. Super clean, so i submitted an offer and hopefully he'll agree to it and I'll have new ignition by the end of the week.

Dyna coils will get ordered, but it's not a huge deal right now.

Stator is installed, clutch springs installed, rear case cover back on with new gasket. Looking at paint on the case next saturday as soon as i can grab a cherry picker.

Picks from today to come.

-Matt
 
What got done yesterday....

Pulled the stator, flywheel, output shaft cover off the motor... Oil everywhere.... Damnit...
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Wow that stator sure looks dark.... Dang output shaft slid out with the cover. (Shakes fist at God)
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Think the stator is toast??
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NEW!
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Case ready for new stuff...
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Wires run and bolted in. Thank god for an impact driver
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Forgot I had the new starter solonoid....installed.
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new clutch springs installed.
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Got the back end of the motor back together. MAde sure the output shaft rotates when the crank is turned, hopefully nothing funky there...
 
Ha, nice work there , the output shaft always comes out with the case, I had mine do that and I have since put 10K miles on it. oh yeah and oil in that cover and all around is normal.
 
Nice!
There's a great write up on NGW on the hydraulic clutch conversion if your new springs make for a stiff lever...
 
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