The complete fork. I'll remove some of the screws for sandblasting and powdercoating later..
Fork 2 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Fork 2 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
1981 GS750E (GSX750E) Dented Cafe Racer ( Currently doing GSX-R USD conversion)
- Thread starter LKS
- Start date
Borrowed the cnc-router again. This time for the top triple. Did some prototyping in oak for speed.
L by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
L by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Ordered gear indicator and warning lights from ebay. The gear indicator was awesome, but the warning lights was a big disapointment
For some reason they were all blue. Waiting for another shipment with the usual blue, green, red and orange. I will alsp cut down to four lights and have one common light for the indicators. The reason for the hole next to the gear-indicator is that I forgot to alter the settings before testing on the oak. The aluminum I've bought is 8mm thicker and i trilled 6mm down into my friends router table 
L by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
L by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
The reason for the uneven outer edges is that I went too fast and broke the end mill piece. Had to use a band saw to finish it off. It's only for testing so it doesn't really matter, and I have more end mills at home.
L by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
L by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
L by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrL by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrOrdered gear indicator and warning lights from ebay. The gear indicator was awesome, but the warning lights was a big disapointment
For some reason they were all blue. Waiting for another shipment with the usual blue, green, red and orange. I will alsp cut down to four lights and have one common light for the indicators. The reason for the hole next to the gear-indicator is that I forgot to alter the settings before testing on the oak. The aluminum I've bought is 8mm thicker and i trilled 6mm down into my friends router table L by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrL by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrThe reason for the uneven outer edges is that I went too fast and broke the end mill piece. Had to use a band saw to finish it off. It's only for testing so it doesn't really matter, and I have more end mills at home.
L by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrL by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
I was struggling to find a good placement for the speed sensor. I've seen some people mount them in the rear brake, or under the front fender, but I will try to modify the original speedo-gear unit. That way I won't have to machine a spacer to replace it. I will drill a hole inside the original hole to place the pickup perpendicular to the magnet. Then I'll grind off some off the original gear so the magnet will sit flush.
Sensor4 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Sensor4 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrI sodablasted the carburettors and dusted them of afterwards with compressed air. I thought I was careful not to get any soda inside them, but my father said I should open and clean them anyway.
2018-09-08_08-12-08 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Glad I did, because he was right. Also, although I've adjusted the needles in my zx7r and knew there were diafragms in there, I didn't know the big oval channel in the inlet was directly connected. I imagine if you blow hard enough directly in there, you might rupture the diafragms. Mine where fine, but I will clean my carburettors some other way the next time.
Soda by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
2018-09-08_08-12-08 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrGlad I did, because he was right. Also, although I've adjusted the needles in my zx7r and knew there were diafragms in there, I didn't know the big oval channel in the inlet was directly connected. I imagine if you blow hard enough directly in there, you might rupture the diafragms. Mine where fine, but I will clean my carburettors some other way the next time.
Soda by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrSometimes the build finds its own path and I have to tag along to see where the build goes. I've been good at spending time on planning to minimise the need for doovers. But when I thought I found a similar exhaust on the internet as I had stowed away 3 years ago, I was dead wrong. Measurements was wrong and after countless tries to make the new exhaust look good on the bike, I gave up. I then decided to make my own. The goal was to have the same amount of stainless perforated tube as in the Kercher.
Exh 5 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Lucky me had some stainless perforated tube laying around.
Exh 4 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Took some half inch aluminum to the lathe and made the end piece. It is stepped with the same thickness as in the perforated tubing. Did also put in some set screws to secure it.
Exh 1 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Packed it:
Exh 2 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
And hammered it gently in. All that is missing is a screw on the backside to keep it from moving.
Exh 3 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Lucky me had some stainless perforated tube laying around.
Exh 4 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrTook some half inch aluminum to the lathe and made the end piece. It is stepped with the same thickness as in the perforated tubing. Did also put in some set screws to secure it.
Exh 1 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrPacked it:
Exh 2 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrAnd hammered it gently in. All that is missing is a screw on the backside to keep it from moving.
Exh 3 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrAccossato levers
2018-09-10_12-02-57 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
2018-09-10_12-05-04 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
2018-09-10_12-05-20 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
2018-09-10_12-02-57 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr2018-09-10_12-05-04 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr2018-09-10_12-05-20 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrNew throttle control with teflon lining and adjustable sensitivity 
Throttle by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Throttle by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
hooligan998
Been Around the Block
Das beeyooteefull!
Thanx
I've had a go at designing the wiring for the bike. I would be very grateful if someone would look it over and correct mistakes I'm not sure if I should connect the regulator to battery or switced plus, so it would be helpful with a hint about that too.
Noisemaker_koblingsskjema by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
I've had a go at designing the wiring for the bike. I would be very grateful if someone would look it over and correct mistakes
I'm not sure if I should connect the regulator to battery or switced plus, so it would be helpful with a hint about that too.Noisemaker_koblingsskjema by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrI posted the wiring diagram in the electrical section at gsresources.com and got some pointers and ideas. This is the final rendition of the diagram. The wires are not to scale, either by length or thickness, but the diagram shows how things will be connected to eachother. The turn light switch is a returning two way switch, the others are push buttons.
Noisemaker_koblingsskjema by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Noisemaker_koblingsskjema by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
I only used windows paint. As long as you have basic line tool, copy/past, text and erazor you're good. If you are used to working with layers you might be better off using Gimp or Photoshop. All the components I copy/pasted from other places or the original wiring diagram for my bike. A tips if you use Paint, which doesn't support multiple windows, or you don't want to struggle with downloading PDF files or others and converting them to the right image file, is to screenshot the webpage or document containing an image of the component you need and open paint 3d (or other program and past it into an empty document. You can then select the area you want and copy/past it into Paint. As long as you don't need high resolution this is the most timeeffective and flexible way to do it IMHO.
LKS said:
Man, that's dedication...
Made a small "bending jig" as I wanted to try out some different ideas for the headlight mount. The first version had an extra loop for mounting the mini blinkers. I thought it looked too cluttered so I removed it.
Mount by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Mount by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
This is how it turned out with just the loop for the headlight. Not sure if I should powdercoat the clear or black..
Mount by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Mount by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Mount by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrMount by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrThis is how it turned out with just the loop for the headlight. Not sure if I should powdercoat the clear or black..
Mount by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrMount by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrThere is a downside to having the bike 1,5 hours drive away. Sometimes I plan something and impatiently order the parts, and when they arrive it doesn't quite turn out as I wanted.
I was planning to use mini switches like on the image below on both sides so I ordered a set of these:
But with the new Domino throttlecontrol there was very little room left on the clipon:
Bike by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
I have some of these switches laying around, so I'll take som if the plastic I used to prototype the fork triple to make someting similar to the Motogadget switch cluster. Ideally there will be three pushbuttons som I can control the Motoscope mini from the handlebar as well.
I was planning to use mini switches like on the image below on both sides so I ordered a set of these:
But with the new Domino throttlecontrol there was very little room left on the clipon:
Bike by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrI have some of these switches laying around, so I'll take som if the plastic I used to prototype the fork triple to make someting similar to the Motogadget switch cluster. Ideally there will be three pushbuttons som I can control the Motoscope mini from the handlebar as well.
In my mind there would be room for electronics under the seat, but when the airbox was in place, there wasn't even room for the seat 
Filter by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
I've used the original seat "hinge" and turned it upside down like this
Seat by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
I'll have to modify it by grinding off the square bar and weld a new round bar directly on the seat frame to get the seat at the right hight.
Any way, that opens up a new problem; where to put the m-unit and the other electronics. I see there's plenty of room on both sides of the batterytray. I'm thinking of making a new tray with a deviding section in the middle. Then the battery will go to the right and the rest of the elctronics will go on the left side. Has anyone done this before? Please post a link to your build thread, and maybe I'll save som time doing trial and error work
This is how it looks now:
Batterycase by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Battery case by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Battery case by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Filter by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrI've used the original seat "hinge" and turned it upside down like this
Seat by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrI'll have to modify it by grinding off the square bar and weld a new round bar directly on the seat frame to get the seat at the right hight.
Any way, that opens up a new problem; where to put the m-unit and the other electronics. I see there's plenty of room on both sides of the batterytray. I'm thinking of making a new tray with a deviding section in the middle. Then the battery will go to the right and the rest of the elctronics will go on the left side. Has anyone done this before? Please post a link to your build thread, and maybe I'll save som time doing trial and error work
This is how it looks now:
Batterycase by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrBattery case by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrBattery case by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrI'll also throw in a cuple of picture of how the bike looks now. Putting the headlight, carburettors and airbox on really made it look a lot closer to beeing a rideable bike I've decided to powdercoat the rearsets black as I think they stand out too much from the rest of the bike.
Bike by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
Bike by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
I've decided to powdercoat the rearsets black as I think they stand out too much from the rest of the bike.Bike by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrBike by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
IMG_20190414_180256 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrQuick and temporary M-Unit hookup.
On the input side I've connected Key, Start/Kill (pushbutton) and Horn/Config (pushbutton, to initialize bluetooth pairing).
On the output side, I've connected Ignition (power to ignition and coils), Start (one wire, activates original starter relay).
I addition to this I've grounded the charging system , the two push buttons and the ignition.
The key input is, per manual, connected to the positive side of the M-unit. I guess this is to make it compatible with the M-lock or other wireless key systems that require power to operate.
I can now monitor voltages and amps on my phone, as well as shut off inputs and outputs for testing purposes.
I must say the M-unit blue is an awsome toy for gadget-lovers in addition to som cool practical features.
I've also sorted out the oil pressure problem, which relly was just a rookie problem. I filled the engine to the correct level and cranked the engine. Didn't notice that the oil level dropped. Topped it off today and cranked it without the pressure switch in the hole so I could se oil coming out of the hole. Connected the switch and a test light and it worked as it should.
First run by Lars Krogh-Stea, on FlickrHere's a short clip of that first run
Feels amazing to reach this milestone!