While waiting for the pistons to come I pulled the side covers off the cases and replaced the oil seals and gaskets. For each seal I drilled a tiny hole in the side and put a wood screw in just slightly, making sure of course not to go too far in or go anywhere near the seal interface. Then I could pull on the screw and pull it out. The big drive seal was intimidating and I was worried I was not going to be able to pull it but it turned out to be the easiest one! Just put a pry bar on the head of the screw and leveraged against the end of the shaft. I drove in the seals with a socket a bit smaller in diameter than the seal. The old seals were flush with the surface of the case but the new ones I drove in slightly beyond flush. Should they be driven in until they bottom out?
'72 CL175 engine trouble?
- Thread starter echo
- Start date
I flipped the motor upside down and rested the case on a paint can to do some cleaning. Nothing fancy but it kept the stress off the studs. The whole underside had the brown grime coating. Got the majority of it off and it's looking much better. Not as good maybe as you guys with your solvent tanks and yer media blasters (I'm working my way up to that, right now it's all elbow grease). :
Attachments
Super excited the new pistons came in and the jugs are headed to the shop today for overboring and honing! The moment of truth is coming for this rebuild. I was wondering if anyone can offer info on what to expect from compression right off the bat and the how can I expect it to rise as the rings seat?
medicalmechanica
Been Around the Block
For what it's worth, I just had my 175 bored 50 over and used the same head gasket, and it seems to be fine.
Sent from my SM-G935P using DO THE TON mobile app
Sent from my SM-G935P using DO THE TON mobile app
Pete12
Been Around the Block
echo said:
Standard head gasket will be fine, you're only .010" bigger on radius.
Most importantly, make sure the bores are perfectly clean before you assemble the top end. Scrub them with hot water and detergent repeatedly and then wipe them through with a white cloth and some ATF or similar coloured oil. Any residual grime will show up on the rag, keep scrubbing until you have none, then oil them up ready for reassembly.
Put it back together last 2 nights and fired it up this morning. Seems to be running fine after a float height correction. I was thrilled to hear that. I'll take it through the paces for a proper break in and report back any issues. Thanks to the guys posting and helping me with this, especially a shout out to teazer.
I have done some breaking in on the rebuilt motor now and put about 20 miles on it. The bike is running but not idling great and now much power or ability to rev under load. A warm check on compression give 135 psi L and 125 R. question I have is: should I continue to try to break it in and seat the rings or should I disassemble the motor again? My shop said it should kick over at least 150 right out of the gate. I verified the valves were not leaking before asssembly. I have double checked valve tappets clearance. Made sure the o was up and tdc on stator when I remade the cam chain. I had the shop hone and bore with the pistons to measure. I put the new rings on staggered 120 deg. These are the cruzin image rings and pistons. Shiny edge ring on top, dark ring 2nd with marking up, 3 piece oil ring on bottom with gaps staggered slightly, no overlap. Tried to keep everything real clean during assembly. I'm using the royal purple sae 30 break in oil. Head torqued per correct order. In my haste I did not measure piston clearances or ring gaps before I rebuilt it. I don't mind to tear it down again if something is wrong, just wondering if I need to be patient and try to get those rings to seat!