Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
Hey, I'm the one that pointed that out.
Hey, I'm the one that pointed that out.
'74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Luna - "Done"!
- Thread starter adventurco
- Start date
Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
Ok ok you all deserve some credit
I'm just glad shes firing ;D ;D was about ready to go crazy.
Ok ok you all deserve some credit
I'm just glad shes firing ;D ;D was about ready to go crazy.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
Actually I told/taught just about everyone here (and multiple other 'vintage' sites) about the points cam assembly
There isn't any reference to it in service manuals or Honda electrical manual ;D
Glad to know you fixed things and the information is going to be available from many sources in the future
Actually I told/taught just about everyone here (and multiple other 'vintage' sites) about the points cam assembly
There isn't any reference to it in service manuals or Honda electrical manual ;D
Glad to know you fixed things and the information is going to be available from many sources in the future
Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
I brought it up on August 10th...
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63294.msg771567#msg771567
Then again on Aug 12th...
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63294.msg771766#msg771766
SO HA HA HA MOTHER FUCKERS...I got ya all beat.
Thats the reason I didnt bring it up again today.
I brought it up on August 10th...
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63294.msg771567#msg771567
Then again on Aug 12th...
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63294.msg771766#msg771766
SO HA HA HA MOTHER FUCKERS...I got ya all beat.
Thats the reason I didnt bring it up again today.
Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
Hahaha! Who reads back to August 10?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hahaha! Who reads back to August 10?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
That's so last week.
That's so last week.
'74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
Speaking of last week, I've been traveling out of state for work, so last week I posted up in a hotel room and soldered together an LED array for the taillight. I used a shortened Lucas style cheapo taillight lens for a housing.
What I learned: making an LED array is actually quite simple, just PLAN it out.
Calculated resistor values/soldered up
Let there be light!
That's a test of the brake light, although the running lights would be on while riding.
After soldering/testing the array, coated the back of it with hot glue to waterproof/reinforce connections. Also hot glued the light into the housing.
Speaking of last week, I've been traveling out of state for work, so last week I posted up in a hotel room and soldered together an LED array for the taillight. I used a shortened Lucas style cheapo taillight lens for a housing.
What I learned: making an LED array is actually quite simple, just PLAN it out.
Calculated resistor values/soldered up
Let there be light!
That's a test of the brake light, although the running lights would be on while riding.
After soldering/testing the array, coated the back of it with hot glue to waterproof/reinforce connections. Also hot glued the light into the housing.
Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
Should've showed that to Trek last week. Then maybe he wouldn't be fucking up snowmobile lights.
Should've showed that to Trek last week. Then maybe he wouldn't be fucking up snowmobile lights.
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
LT is for valve timing while LF is for ignition timing...
The left points open on "LF"... not LT.,,adventurco said:
LT is for valve timing while LF is for ignition timing...
Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
That's right, typo on that earlier post. I mixed them up when I was trying to type it out.
Mydlyfkryzis said:
That's right, typo on that earlier post. I mixed them up when I was trying to type it out.
Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
Around 80 mA for the running light (20 LEDs) and 100 mA for the brake light (26 LEDs)
trek97 said:
Around 80 mA for the running light (20 LEDs) and 100 mA for the brake light (26 LEDs)
Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
Now that shes running...lets get her road ready.
Filled hydraulic lines and bled brake system. Had a couple drips at the brake switch @ 3 way joint. Snugged it up a bit more, probably should've replaced the crush washer. :
The pads have snugged up a bit too much, and the tire takes quite a bit of effort to spin. The return passage is clear and working, splashes a bit of fluid when lever is depressed. When the adjuster screw is loose (bleeder open), can't seem to depress the piston and get some space in there. Even tried lightly prying with a small breaker bar. I know the pivot point on the caliper mount is a common problem, so I'll plan on pulling it and re-greasing the pivot point.
Hmm wonder if i can find someone to tap it for a zerk fitting.
Now that shes running...lets get her road ready.
Filled hydraulic lines and bled brake system. Had a couple drips at the brake switch @ 3 way joint. Snugged it up a bit more, probably should've replaced the crush washer. :
The pads have snugged up a bit too much, and the tire takes quite a bit of effort to spin. The return passage is clear and working, splashes a bit of fluid when lever is depressed. When the adjuster screw is loose (bleeder open), can't seem to depress the piston and get some space in there. Even tried lightly prying with a small breaker bar. I know the pivot point on the caliper mount is a common problem, so I'll plan on pulling it and re-greasing the pivot point.
Hmm wonder if i can find someone to tap it for a zerk fitting.
frogman
'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
Biggest issue that I have had with the hydraulic brakes on Honda bikes is in the caliper. The groove that the seal sits in gets filled with some kind of crap that is fairly resistant to most cleaning solutions. You have to scrape it clean, I bent a small flat head screwdriver right angle to the handle just for that purpose. It still amazes me that just a little bit of crap in that groove causes the seal to push against the piston enough to cause it not to slide easily. At least once every year depending on how much I use my bikes, I have to pull the calipers apart and clean them.
The pivot arm can cause issues but if it moves freely its fine. Make sure you have your clearance set correctly as well.
Biggest issue that I have had with the hydraulic brakes on Honda bikes is in the caliper. The groove that the seal sits in gets filled with some kind of crap that is fairly resistant to most cleaning solutions. You have to scrape it clean, I bent a small flat head screwdriver right angle to the handle just for that purpose. It still amazes me that just a little bit of crap in that groove causes the seal to push against the piston enough to cause it not to slide easily. At least once every year depending on how much I use my bikes, I have to pull the calipers apart and clean them.
The pivot arm can cause issues but if it moves freely its fine. Make sure you have your clearance set correctly as well.
Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
I rebuilt the entire hydraulic braking system, the seat for the o-ring was clean when I reinstalled new rubber seal. I should be able to depress the piston while the adjuster is loose and bleeder open. Maybe I will have to re-clean.
Clearance between the piston and rotor?
I rebuilt the entire hydraulic braking system, the seat for the o-ring was clean when I reinstalled new rubber seal. I should be able to depress the piston while the adjuster is loose and bleeder open. Maybe I will have to re-clean.
Clearance between the piston and rotor?
Re: '74 CB 360 Cafe Build - Boomerang
Problem is not in the master, because:
Rebuild the caliper, and make sure the piston slides freely in the bore without the seal and dust cover. It should be fine when you put it back together. Old pistons are usually quite dreadfully corroded, but the corrosion is usually between the seal and the dust cover, and does not affect the operating surface where the hydraulic seal contacts the piston but it depends on how worn the pads were when left to corrode. If the seals land on smooth piston surface you will be fine, but make sure the dust seals are installed properly to keep water from continuing the process. When fully cleaned and assembled, you should be able to fairly easily fully retract the piston with your thumb after the system is filled and you have advanced the piston with the brake lever. The fluid will leave the caliper and return to the reservoir as long as the brake lever is released and the supply hole to the master cylinder from the reservoir is open. Loosen the cap to let air out but don't remove it as fluid will squirt out. You do not need to open the bleed screw to do this or something is wrong. Also, you can re-use the copper seals indefinitely if you anneal them. Just heat them up with a propane torch until they "rainbow" (change color from the heat - super fast with such small parts) and quench in water. They will be nice and soft and seal up perfectly.
Problem is not in the master, because:
So look at the caliper. With the caliper off the bike, it should be reasonably easy to move the piston. It is a tight fit against the seal, but you should be able to slide it all the way into the housing until it hits bottom. Keep in mind that the only thing that retracts the piston from maintaining pressure on the disc is the elasticity of the seals. The seals stick pretty tightly against the piston, and have to deform when the piston is pushed forward. They pull the piston and pads back when the pressure is released. As the pads wear, eventually the distance needed is too great and the seals skid a bit on the piston, allowing them to advance to compensate for pad wear, but still have to deform and so continue to retract the piston when pressure is released. The amount of spring pressure available from the elasticity of the seals is not a lot, so it does not take much crud between the piston and bore to cause the piston to hang up. The hydraulic pressure applied when you operate the brake is tremendous, so you may not notice the effort needed to move the piston past the "crud" except that there is not enough force available from the seal to adequately retract the piston past it.adventurco said:
Rebuild the caliper, and make sure the piston slides freely in the bore without the seal and dust cover. It should be fine when you put it back together. Old pistons are usually quite dreadfully corroded, but the corrosion is usually between the seal and the dust cover, and does not affect the operating surface where the hydraulic seal contacts the piston but it depends on how worn the pads were when left to corrode. If the seals land on smooth piston surface you will be fine, but make sure the dust seals are installed properly to keep water from continuing the process. When fully cleaned and assembled, you should be able to fairly easily fully retract the piston with your thumb after the system is filled and you have advanced the piston with the brake lever. The fluid will leave the caliper and return to the reservoir as long as the brake lever is released and the supply hole to the master cylinder from the reservoir is open. Loosen the cap to let air out but don't remove it as fluid will squirt out. You do not need to open the bleed screw to do this or something is wrong. Also, you can re-use the copper seals indefinitely if you anneal them. Just heat them up with a propane torch until they "rainbow" (change color from the heat - super fast with such small parts) and quench in water. They will be nice and soft and seal up perfectly.