cb550 electronics relocation now no power.

Hi all got a cafe build thread going on now also and all is going pretty well but ran in to a bit of a problem today though. My carb sync gauges came in so I hooked them up and was going to fire it up and get them synced up but its not firing now!!! :? Very annoying! I cant seem to figure out what the problem is. I hope you guys with more knowledge than me can help me out a bit. In my pursuit to make the bike look more clean and open I am relocating the electronics under the cafe seat. I have moved them all from there original mount and plugged it all back up but am wondering was some of this possibly grounded with the way it was mounted before and wont run without being bolted down and grounded? I have the guts from inside the headlight hanging out also so I have the same question about the wiring in there. Everything is hooked up so if this isn't it I don't know what it could be. Also its more than just not firing. It has no power at all. The oil pressure and neutral indicator lights don't even come on. I have checked checked and rechecked all of the connections and cant find anything wrong. All the fuses are good also. This isn't my first time messing with wiring and its never really bothered me but im stumped now. Please help! Thanks
 
It seems like you have an issue with you ignition, so power is going from your batt (which is fully charged of course) and is not returning from your ignition to your fuse block to be fed out?
 
I have considered that it may be in the ignition switch. Was working before but I have moved it to the rear under the cafe seat so it may very well have fallen apart inside while moving it around. I know the red wire feeds power to the ignition, does anyone know what wires coming out of the ignition are supposed to be fed power when the ignition switch i on? I will get it checked after work this evening and report back. Thanks for your help!
 
Red wire goes in, along with black, brown and white/brown. When the ignition is off, no wires are connected.
When the ignition is turned on, Red goes to black. Brown and brown/white are parking lights and can be ripped off. Put red to black and see what happens. Should be firing if lock is broken.

You can always start the bike by putting 12v on the black wire from the ignition coil. use the frame or coil metal ends as a ground. That always works if engine is ok.

this is a loom i simplified to barebone for a fellow member. You see that red becomes black @ ignition.
Green = always ground, black = power WHEN IGNITION IS ON, red = ALWAYS HOT.

CB550Modifiedjpg_thumbcopy.png


Best way is to start at the battery and work your way up to the point where's no power anymore. If you relocated everything, it ca be possible a (already corroded) plug or wire snapped in the plug itself, not visible. An other often seen place is at the fuse box. You really only need one fuse, between red from battery into loom. The fuses can be ok, but inside the fusebox is often corrosion, not letting the batterypower trhu. If i were you, id check the fusebox first. disconnect the battery and open the fusebox. My money is on that.

Please note i used pink for headlight wiring. That wire is normally white, but hence the background :)
 
WOW! Thanks a lot Bert! That diagram is exactly what I needed. If I had that yesterday it wouldn't have taken but a second to figure it out. That will really help me clean everything up also.
 
Thank you for following up with this post. I hate it when people have the EXACT same problem as me but fail to say what the actual issue is.

I'm going to see if I can spare a few hours to trace down my wiring issue, which I suspect, is very similar to yours.
 
AS chompers bike runs again, i think its fine if you 'steal' this thread. That way, more people can be helped when searching for similar problems. sxecafe, what's your problem exactly?
 
Didn't see this reply until now (something is whacky with my notifications)

I relocated everything and when I did, things were working properly. Lights, signals, gauge indicators etc. all were fine nthe engine was dry so I didn't try to start it but I tapped the start button ever so slightly and it jumped, indicating it ws functioning. Now, 4-5 months later when I am putting everything back together, nobody's home. I am in the process of tracing everything back right now. New battery and trying to see where the buck stops so I can fire.
 
Now I have tested the red, which is hot, and the black which is hot when the ign switch is on.

The fuse box looks good and I tested to see if there was 12v hitting the red fuse and there is.

I tried to jump around the ign switch but I don't quite understand where/how the ground comes in to play.
 
cb550 electronics relocation now no power.

Here are a few quick shots of the set up.


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cb550 electronics relocation now no power.


Breakthrough! I have gotten the thing to turn over!

Ok. Now I have no spark. I think it's and issue with the black wire from my kill switch. I can literally see the fuse bending when I plug it in. With just the starter plugged in (blk to blk and ylw/rd to yel/rd) then I can spin the engine. Once I hook the blk of the kill switch in, I have spark for a split sec, then the fuse dies. The tricky this is that I get spark even when the engine is spinning which makes me think it's a grounding issue.

This bridge has the bullet connectors from the killswtch, the starter and the front brake signal all plugged in to it although I don't think that would overload the fuse.

My ground for the coils is on the outside of the bracket. When tested with a continuity tester to all the other grn wires it sounds off so I think it's grounded but...

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cb550 electronics relocation now no power.

Done for the night as I have burnt thru all my fuses. Still the same issue. Changed the ground to the inside of the coil mount (now it touches the frame) and checked the ground around the bike. At a loss for right now. Hopefully someone has some insist.


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Hotwiring goes as follows:

The coils have a blue, yellow and black/white wire. yellow and blue go to points, black/white is power for the coils. When the ignition is 'on', there should be power on the black/white wire. If not, there's your problem.

Put 12v on the black/white wire from the coils and put the negative to ground. You have power on the coils like this and there should be a spark. If not, something is really really wrong.
 
on one of your coil pics it seems one has a black wire going in. Both coils should have a black/white wire going in (from the same wire). Put 12v on that wire and use the frame as ground. Fire? If not, your coils prolly dont earth to the frame as you PC'd the frame. Make sure the coils metal square is grounded properly. Attach the negative on the metal thing (where the bolts go thru) and check again. should be ok.
 
i see you grounded the coils, so thats ok. burning fuses means shortcuts are being made. Black/white wire from the coils needs to be connected to black. blue and yellow go straight into the points cover on the right side of the engine. Those wires go a long way so could be that they ground somewhere?
 
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That dual black plug is positive and hot when ignition is on. Shield that sucker! Both black/white coil wires go into that dual black plug. I dont know what that black wire with YELLOW TUBE is doing in there, but i dont think it should be there. Where does it come from? To my knowledge, the 4 way black plug accomodates the 2 coil wires, the claxon positive and the signal-buzzer positive.

edit; whoops sorry for all thore posts! iwas thinking outloud :)
 
I have a blk/wht wire going to each of the coils and then have the paint (appliance epoxy not powder, wish I would have powdered tho) scraped off so bare metal is hitting the green grounding wire. I'll check the work around but I'm pretty sure my issue lies somewhere in the kill switch. I can turn the motor over but once I turn the kill switch to "Run" the coil arcs to the frame and then the fuse blows....
 
That's the kill switch side so I have ylw/rd, blk/wht and two black wires, one for the starter button and one for the kill switch. The one with the ylw is actually one of the black wires, but I just ran out of black heat shrink when I got to that point and it was late in the evening.

What's the claxon?
 
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