Down under, an idiot and a 400F

Damm, i really love your work!
got a cb400f myself, but im just getting started,
Could you send me a (digital) copy of the template you made for the bottom of the seat?
 
Maritime: I've got a tray underneath my subframe so think I should be good with water ingress, however if you think I should look to protect it from moisture let me know.

cb400f caferacer: which bit of the seat do you need? I don't have something ready to go, but I do have detailed pics on how I made it and happy to measure it all up too if you want to copy it.
 
I'm seriously considering a hydraulic clutch setup on my 400F after I read a thread on a conversion. Looking through the old eBay I found an amazing plug and play setup for dirt bikes from Magura which looks like it could be made to work with the original setup with some minimal modding. What are people's thoughts on whether this would work:

Street_Hymec_01.jpg
 
Looks like KTM set up. It works well as long as line isn't near cylinder head, the fluid can boil (some bikes have had a LOT of problems with metal lines clipped to cyl. head)
Is clutch too hard to pull with heavy duty springs?
 
No idea on clutch pull, never pulled it as motor was farked from the beginning. Will cable it first and go from there if required. More looking for bling ;)
 
do you have links to the article on the conversion and the ebay sale ?
i've always wanted to do a hydraulic conversion on a 750/4 and it'd be interesting to see if this is applicable
 
So I'm trying to get my arse back in gear to finish this bike. Today I popped into the shed and had a look at a solution to mount the rear hugger. Original plan was to mount it low to stop all splash on the motor:



This represented a challenge as I couldn't properly fit the hugger in there and I would have to cut it for the chain to get through too:





So I've decided to mount it higher instead and cut it back if needed:



This looks better in my opinion and should offer more protection. I can also add in a plate between the 2 swingarm brace uprights to stop any debris hitting the engine.

I've also managed to secure a new piece of shop equipment. Not picked it up just yet but fingers crossed the deal goes through as I think it's a bit of a steal. Just getting the father in law to pick me up for a trailer run.

... watch this space!!!
 
RESULT!!!!

I'm pretty happy with the result, it's one of those quick things that you either are there to take advantage of, or not. Surfing eBay this morning looking for various bike crap I loaded up one of my saved search terms, only to find an auction that was (for once) in my price bracket. It was a 24hr auction and it looked like the chap needed the cash quick. He had a mobile number seeking offers to buy it outright, so I sent an offer: $320

2 hrs later it was accepted via a phone call and a further 3 hours I had it back at home in my garage :)

I'm going to need some help getting it in perfect running order, but will write another thread for that.

Here it is in all it's glory:







Needs a new belt and motor is a bit dodgy, wondering if I can convert it to direct drive instead?

Came with a box of brand new carbide tip holders:



Seems really solid, no wobbly bits, bed seems solid, wheels and cogs are smooth, tail stock is solid on the bed. I will need a 3 jaw thingy but otherwise it's looking ok.

It's got this lever which locks in these 2 cogs, no idea what it's for as it locks up when fully engaged. Thining it's not working perfectly and I suspect it's there to change the gearing ratio:



Next up is to strip it back a bit, clean and regrease stuff, put it back together and see what needs repairing or replacing.

Very pleased to finally be on the path to doing some basic metal turning.
 
The side lever is reverse. or low speed, I'll have to have a better look at pictures
Did you get a box of gears with it? Should be able to do screw cutting but you need change wheels (and maybe a 127t 'translator' gear for metric, unless lead screw is metric?)
With that much cast iron it should be pretty good. It will be better to convert to V-belt rather than trying direct drive, you may be able to find pulley sets reasonable price then modify them to fit shafts
 
PJ apparently that top black lever is a slow speed with the lower black lever (can only just see it in last pic) is reverse, but it's locked with a bolt. Unfortunately didn't get the gears for the threading :(

Are you saying modify pulleys to accept a v belt instead of running the flat belt?
 
Yep, if you had some sort of flat belt you could use lathe to modify (or even make) pulleys
BTW, four jaw chuck has much better holding and isn't difficult to use (easier than wheel truing ;D )
3 jaw is more convenient for many things though
 
thanks for the links for the hydraulic conversion, looks completely do-able on a 750.
i'm wondering though, from the pic of the lever/slave cylinder you showed are you going to use the push-rod to move the clutch activating lever (the bit the bottom end of the clutch cable attaches to) in extension (rather than contraction - or pulling - as the cable would do) rather than the direct push thru onto the clutch that the conversion shows? it seems to me that if the hydraulic push-rod moves far enough it would be an even easier way to do it than the way the conversion shows - and allows the stock chrome cover to stay in place
 
You can make a belt for that lathe with an automobile timing belt or serpentine type flat belt. Do an internet search but basically you cut to length, taper the ends with a belt sander so it can overlap a couple inches and glue it together.

It would have had a leather belt on it but the rubber will work better, run smoother not stretch etc.

Probably would have been about 1750 rpm motor.



Nice project by the way, looking really good!
 
1750 rpm would be an easier motor to get hold of and is probably close to max speed with plain bronze bushings (just keep the oilers filled) Should be fine to 2500rpm but check for bearings heating up
Your not trying to do production work so taking smaller cuts at lower speed shouldn't be an issue
 
spotty said:
thanks for the links for the hydraulic conversion, looks completely do-able on a 750.
i'm wondering though, from the pic of the lever/slave cylinder you showed are you going to use the push-rod to move the clutch activating lever (the bit the bottom end of the clutch cable attaches to) in extension (rather than contraction - or pulling - as the cable would do) rather than the direct push thru onto the clutch that the conversion shows? it seems to me that if the hydraulic push-rod moves far enough it would be an even easier way to do it than the way the conversion shows - and allows the stock chrome cover to stay in place
Click to expand...

It's a pull rod, connects up like a normal cable
 
ooooh, thats trick. me want even more now. looks like i'm going to have to sell a cat or two......

can i interest anyone in two slightly mad white cats, both shed enough fur to line your winter gloves with (every day) and aren't in the slightest bit phased by a large great dane (who also sheds enough fur to line a couple of winter jackets (every day...)
 
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