Down under, an idiot and a 400F

[crazypj]

I don't bother with the white, Tripoli and done.
Really, you need a high quality loose wheel if your using ir, but, you can get 'show quality' with just the brown compo.
Join Caswell plating forums, they have a lot of information.

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm

 

[neevo]

I suspect the problem is in my gloves, anyone care to comment?

I have these leather fingered cotton gardening gloves and they are great however I have been using them in every stage, 120 grit, emery, tripoli, rouge.

Given I am handling the items so much does anyone think the ground in compound could be damaging the finish after emery?

Will be looking at getting gloves for each of the wheels too.

Cannot work out why my finish is so bad as at the moment the shiniest it is, is after emery.

 

[Staffy]

Last time I did this (which is too long to remember jack shit about it) I'm pretty sure I just used cotton gloves and nothing else. I seem to remember the fingers getting a little hot but I reckon I just grew some balls and lived with it

 

[crazypj]

Probably, as I said, I use knitted cotton gloves over mechanic gloves

 

[neevo]

Going to Bunnings to get me some cotton gloves!

Can you sand with an air rotary tool? I have a 3" tool with a tonne of grits on its way and would love to prep my parts with that.

Not going for mirror finish, just nice and shiny.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

"air rotary tool" as in a Die Grinder? I can, but I have had a lot (years) of practice. One of the tricks is to keep it moving, rather fast... Don't pause in one spot and go the length of the part, swing around curves or you will make flat spots. There are literally hundereds of different types of attachmets to put in one. From carbide burrs, various shaped stones, sanding discs and scotch-brite pads in assorted grits and sizes. Seriously, the sky is the limit.

 

[neevo]

Like this:

 

[1976cb356]

Literally was just thinking about this, I went to home depot hoping they would have some finer grit discs. But they just had the assorted kit. I am about to order some finer grits to get my polishing done!

 

[neevo]

So went and got me some cotton gloves to have another crack at this polishing malarkey:

Here is what I was trying to improve upon:

Went well and it looks like I can put a bit more pressure into the wheel to get it to work. Much better result:

Still got some minor haze but I am suspecting that is because of my sanding technique. Looks like I will putting a tonne more elbow grease into thr sanding phases, oh joy

 

[crazypj]

Told ya so ;D
In middle pic you can still see marks from 240 or 320 grit?
400 will come out and 600 disappears real quick
Try sanding in different directions for each grit, that way it's more obvious if you still have scratches
Check paper or use wet to prevent build up scratching surface.
Believe it or not, it's going to be quicker to de-grease the torque arm you made, start with 400 and do over (sucks to mess up what you already did but result is worth it.)
When done right, it will stay shiny for a long time as the polishing waxes will be 'melted' into surface (as soon as you 'clean' with aluminum polish it will tarnish faster)

 

[neevo]

This sanding lark is bloody hard work! Good to know, will crack out the sandpaper next weekend.

 

[Staffy]

Everything is hard work until you know how to get it right. Once you have it nailed then next time you'll piss it in!

 

[crazypj]

BTW, just thought, DON'T polish the faces where caliper clamps together, you could make it out of parallel or wavy

 

[neevo]

BTW, just thought, DON'T polish the faces where caliper clamps together, you could make it out of parallel or wavy

Oops! Hopefully I haven't taken too much off. 1 less bit to redo though.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Like this:

Can't say I have seen one with a nose like that, all I have owned used a 1/4" collet like this.

Also be sure to use that grease needle and lube at the 90 degree zerts. There are gears in there that will wear if not maintained.

 

[neevo]

Run out of things to do other than sanding and polishing do thought I would put some stuff back together and back on the bike to check some clearances.

I need to get my tank welded up and my aggressive knee cut outs removed the old petcock. Looking for an alternative position using the old thread and petcock that doesn't foul the top of the motor, maintains a reserve tap and is low enough to feed fuel.

Here's the bike:

Here is the proposed petcock position (blue arrow):

Side view for clearance:

How it looks:

It's less than ideal for my eye to be honest but I am not sure what options I have that keep a filter, tap and reserve. Anyone got any thoughts? I was thinking about running some thin copper pipe from each front end, one a short entry into the tank, 1 longer, running the lines flush with the tank and out near the carbs with a switching tap and fuel filter afterwards. Still happy to do that just not sure on the neatest way to do it.

 

[Staffy]

I think you're right, you might need to run pipe from the low point inside the tank to come out somewhere further back. There's no rule that says the petcock needs to be mounted on the tank by the way, just make it so it can come off with the tank and you're set. You could run some pipe to an outlet, then hose to the petcock mounted on the down tube of the frame.

 

[neevo]

There's no rule that says the petcock needs to be mounted on the tank by the way, just make it so it can come off with the tank and you're set. You could run some pipe to an outlet, then hose to the petcock mounted on the down tube of the frame.

Problem is Staffy the petcock has the reserve tubes. Thinking I might run a tube from the front where you can't see it to the rear with a tap and filter up the back. That way it won't be visible from the side and will be much neater.

Anyone got thoughts on mounting a fuel servo? Going to be getting an Acewell tacho in the end which has a wire for a fuel meter however the one they supply is massive (like a toilet float) and looks like it has to have access from the top of the tank.

If I could have a fuel light it would remove the need for a reserve tap.

Anyone know what diameter fuel/copper pipe would be needed to ensure appropriate supply to the carbs?

 

[crazypj]

Main issue with mounting fuel tap at front of tank, any leaks are directly onto a hot engine or exhaust.
The fuel will also be heated up and could cause vapor lock, particularly if you use copper as it transfers heat real good

 

[eyhonda]

I believe the petcock can be drilled slightly larger to flow more fuel. I've done it on a 175 before. The petcocks are similar.