ever so common cb360 clutch issues

S

ShadowPlay

New Member
So I have been lurking this forum for a while since i have been working on my first build, a 1975 cb360. I know there has been many threads made about the clutch on this bike but I just cannot seem to get it to work properly and I was hoping i could get some help on here.
So I started off with the classic popping clutch issue, i got the cover off and replaced the cable only to find that it still pops, after reading more i found out that my cable could be too short so i removed the spacer from the adjuster in the lever. I then proceeded to try every combination of removing spacers, I took out the one at the lever and the casing, then just each one individually, and both in. This ended up solving the popping issue but now the clutch will not fully disengage, i can move the rear wheel with my hands but there is still a lot of resistance and about 1/2 inch of cable slack before the lever really seems to start doing anything. before anyone asks, yes i do have the ball bearing.. Any help that i can get would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
 
The popping is usually in the adjustment screw. Did you follow the procedure in the factory service manual?
 
Start with adjuster on the hand lever all the way in. Adjuster bolt on the clutch actuator all the way in, too.

Everything should be pretty loose.

Back out the bolt on the sprocket cover just until you get tension. Now adjust the hand lever until you have about an inch of free play in the lever, when measured at the end of the lever.
 
I have followed the procedure in the manual, both adjustments in at the sprocket cover and the lever and i turned the adjuster CCW until i felt tension and then 1/4 CW before tightening the locking nut. Sonrier, when you say 1 inch of free play at the lever, is that one inch between the edge of the lever and the end of the cable housing? Thanks for the replies!
 
It's just the tip of lever. You should be able to pull it in about 1" before you feel tension.
 
Ah I understand now, thats how it was set up when the clutch would not fully disengage, is it possible that some of the parts could be worn out? I can post pictures of them sometime if that could help to solve my problems
 
I actually just went through this whole problem on a CL last week. It was my first time doing a cable change on that type of clutch. I'll try to walk you through my process and hope that it helps you. It helped to really just sit there and figure out how all the parts where functioning. And that's when it clicked for me as to what was going wrong. Understanding how that the whole mechanism moves that push rod like one cm back and forth was important. I followed these instruction to the letter- http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/48-engine-discussion/8701-350-360-clutch-adjustment-procedure.html . One thing it didn't say in all the research i did on it was clean everything, and then grease it all back up nicely. I greased every face surface and on the cam sides thoroughly. Also that the ball bearing was in place and greased so that it stayed in place as it was placed back together was key as well. my first couple times that I did it I wasn't cleaning it completely, rather relying on old grease. As soon as I cleaned and re-greased and followed the instructions in that first post on that page I referenced I had no problems. Also I hear through my research that motion pro type cables are a tiny bit shorter the the oem that could be hampering you? It's possible that parts are worn out, but highly unlikely.
 

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work9to5, thank you very helpful! I think that I will take it apart and clean everything again and regrease it all really well this time, because i didnt use much grease last time. what type of grease do you recommend? I used some pretty thick stuff that I use in for my chainsaw. I also have white lithium grease that I could use if that would be better. i will take some pictures of the part that i think might be worn and post them if it doesnt work this time. thanks again!
 
I used anti seize cause i've got a ton of it and I like the brush that it comes with. I'm pretty sure that's not what honda would recommend but did the job ;)
 
Regular axle grease. Antisieze really doesn't have the lubricative properties for that job IMHO. To each their own I suppose.

Thing to check for when changing the cable is when all the adjustments are screwed all the way in at the cover and the handle, the arm inside the cover should be pulled all the way down by the spring. Like almost pointing at the bottom of the cover and the spring should more or less be loose. That way when you PULL the handle you will get the max amount of swing possible.
 
Frogman is right, you should want to use grease. Anti seize isnt really meant to have much movement. What will happen is the antiseize will eventually get pushed out and away from the parts you need lubrication the most. Granted the clutch mechanisim under the clutch cover isnt a high heat, wear, or friction producer; You still want it to move smoothly.

If possible take it apart, its a bit of work I know, but grease it up. There is a grease nipple too, HA! I have never used it though... maybe someday
 
It's been a while since i last posted, unfortunately i don't have anywhere heated to work in during the winter so i had to take some time off from the bike.
Anyways i took it all apart and re cleaned everything perfectly and reassembled it all with loads of grease, and made sure all of the adjusters were in(i removed the locking not on the adjuster at the lever because my cable is a tad short)
after doing all of this i was able to actually change gears on the bike, but there is some resistance still. with the clutch in i can roll the bike but you can definitely feel a little bit of resistance on the back wheel.
if i turn out the adjuster at all to have more tension the clutch just pops instantly.
What do you guys think of this? is it okay to have a little bit of resistance at the back wheel as long as i can easily change gears?
 
With the engine not running there will be resistance, once the engine is running and has oil pressure the clutch actuation will get a ton better. Cold thick oil will not let go of the clutch as much as warm MOVING oil. With the engine not running it will also be hard to change gears as that action requires the transmission to be turning. 1st and 2nd gear will/should be the only 2 that will easily engage without anything moving. Sometimes you get lucky and make it up a few more.

Sounds like you have it about nailed.
 
ah that explains everything! thanks a lot for letting me know, and thanks to everyone that replied and helped me out, you guys are awesome!
 
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