First Build; '75 CB360 (yes ANOTHER 360 build)

[MHDesign]

haha, thanks! It was just a bench grinder to do the mass removal, then a hacksaw and files to find tune it. Nothing special, just took some time

And there are plenty of companies that make them, but not for as cheap as you can buy a big socket for. If you can sell em for 10-20 bucks a piece, I think you'd do some good business!

Ah - I didn't look closely. I thought you milled that. Nicely done!


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[MHDesign]

Ok - at the risk of asking a dumb question, how do I get the bearing out? The factory manual just says (#6):

Retainer is out, and I tried lightly prying with no luck. When I search the forum, or do a google search, all I get is bearing retainer removal info...


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[MHDesign]

To clarify, I know I could buy a bearing puller. Are there any DIY methods? I'm all for using the right tool for the job, but also don't want to accumulate a bunch of specialty tools I might only use a few times.

Thanks!


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[Sonreir]

Which bearing are we talking about? There are many.

 

[MHDesign]

Talking about both rears...still have to figure out front retainer removal


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[MHDesign]

BTW Sonreir- I still plan to get the suggested battery from you, but have been tied up with other stuff. I'll send you an email.


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[Sonreir]

For the rear bearings, you can use a piece of rebar and a hammer. Hit them out from the opposite side. Don't go crazy though. Light tapping and changing the point the point of impact will do it.

 

[MHDesign]

Re-reading my own thread for info and really appreciating all of the feedback. Access to free manuals and service bulletins is priceless.

Printed:

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[MHDesign]

Good deal - thank you sir! I think I saw a link to this elsewhere on the forum, but would have been searching for a long time. Exactly what I needed. I will print and write notes to my heart's content.


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Meant to reference this. Thanks!


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[MHDesign]

For the rear bearings, you can use a piece of rebar and a hammer. Hit them out from the opposite side. Don't go crazy though. Light tapping and changing the point the point of impact will do it.

Thanks Sonreir-

Wow really bungled my last few posts. I was trying to refer to earlier questions, but instead muddied the waters through the magic of Tapatalk. I'll give your suggestion a shot. Thanks!


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[MHDesign]

After a few tries at drifting those things out, I think I'll need a puller. I'll report back later.


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[7aliveatlast7]

Use heat! Just a small propane torch will work wonders. I tried and tried pounding mine out and the wouldn't budge. Then just a couple minutes with a torch around whatever they're housed in, and the same beating produced much better results.

 

[MHDesign]

Use heat! Just a small propane torch will work wonders. I tried and tried pounding mine out and the wouldn't budge. Then just a couple minutes with a torch around whatever they're housed in, and the same beating produced much better results.

I'll try this next. I've talked to other DTTers doing 360s (woodsy) and everyone swears heat and a drift will do it. I've borrowed every blind-puller I can get my hands on, but they're the wrong size. Exhibit A:

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[MHDesign]

Those mothers are such a pain, just gave the rear hub on my cb750 the same treatment. I went with a different sort of homemade tool though:

I eventually had to do the same for my front bearing retainer. Mine isn't as nice /way more crude, but does the job.

...snap-on steel is REALLY hard to cut.

Yes that's blood - don't ask...


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[MHDesign]

And finally- yes I cut up a Snap-on socket. It was a cast off. Find a better use for a 1 & 5/16 socket and I'll tell you that you have a really cool job to tackle.


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[MHDesign]

The pile of tools that don't remove CB360 wheel bearings. This is DIY for fun, but this part isn't fun. Should I just get these things pulled at my local shop or am I missing something?


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[crazypj]

You probably didn't heat the alloy enough. It should be hot enough to boil water (spit on it )

 

[MHDesign]

You probably didn't heat the alloy enough. It should be hot enough to boil water (spit on it )

Thanks - I'll try one more time but may take the Hubs to my local shop...

Updates later this week.


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[MHDesign]

Time for an update:

I did get my bearings out, both front and rear. I finally gave up and payed my local shop. It certainly wasn't for a lack of trying, but want to keep things moving. (They also charged less than an hour's labor; cheaper than buying a decent blind-bearing puller)

Today I spent hours cleaning, degreasing, stripping, polishing, etc. on all of the little bits and pieces that comprise the hub / wheel assemblies. (I disassembled the wheels last week).

I should be able to try out a powder coater / refinisher this week for the hubs and a few other parts.

Also spent a nice Saturday morning on the couch yesterday online scavenging all of the replacement items I need and have a big order due to arrive soon...

fork seals
carb rebuild kit
master cylinder rebuild kit
new spokes
front and rear bearings
bearing retainers
rear brake shoes / springs
front brake pads
misc. hardware
Lots of other stuff I'm forgetting

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[MHDesign]

Also - I did already post this in"Wheels, tires and brakes" but I'm looking for suggestions on powder coating my hubs without removing the rear sprocket stud bushings...thoughts?

Alright - sorry if this has been covered, but I can't seem to find any info...

I plan to powder coat my hubs this week, and have not yet removed the sprocket stud bushings.

A few questions:

1. If I don't remove them (they're in good shape) will they take the heat of the oven when baking the powder coat?

2. If I do remove them, what is the best method? I've heard of people drilling out the metal insert, then peeling / prying the rubber.

My preference is to leave them in, but don't want to compromise the bushings.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

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