How do I remove badge mounts?

The ends are spot welded such that I think I would open up the tank on each side doing that, which is why I didn't start there.
 
Cut the fucker in half, then cut the badge holders out. Then weld it back together.

Duh
 
I'll just melt the tank down and make a new tank out of it
 
Damn it why didn't I think of that.

That would also make it a sandcast and worth at least a billion dollars.
 
IIRC its a CB tank you have. ON mine I used a 4" grinder on the spot welds, if you grind it down enough to bend the tabs off without pulling through the tank, then just clean up the spot welds.
 
notlob said:
IIRC its a CB tank you have. ON mine I used a 4" grinder on the spot welds, if you grind it down enough to bend the tabs off without pulling through the tank, then just clean up the spot welds.
Click to expand...

I sanded them down to cover them - by the time I was done they were thin enough that I could have flicked them off with a finger!

Thanks everyone*






*except Sonic
 
Yeah I learned the hard way that they will rip a small hole in the tank. Hopefully the weld holds :-\ I ended up leaving the other one on after I made the hole and just had my body who does body work and paint fill it in

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
AlphaDogChoppers said:
There is not good reason whatever for not using Bondo.

Solder/lead as a body filler is from the 60's. WAAAY better materials for the job now.

I'll modify that statement slightly. If you were going to metal plate the tank, you would use a solder type of filler.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, Alfa.
 
Rich Ard said:
I only have a four inch grinder and a Dremel - I think that for me, belt sander is the way to go.

What would you use to grind the spot welds off? I'm sure the Dremel would get there...eventually...
Click to expand...
3" grinder, grind just through the spot weld it self and those straps fall right off. Just did it to a set of Fat Bob tanks.
 
o1marc said:
3" grinder, grind just through the spot weld it self and those straps fall right off. Just did it to a set of Fat Bob tanks.
Click to expand...

Where did you get a 3" grinder? I need more tools. :P
 
Nebr_Rex said:
Where did you get a 3" grinder? I need more tools. :P
Click to expand...


What, they don't have 3" grinder discs in Nebr.? Discs come in all sizes for die grinders and grinders.
 
I'm going to do this this week. I'm going to try with a dremmel cutting wheel first just because its the smallest cutting wheel foot print and less sparks in the way to see what you are cutting.
 
I have a couple of tanks that have the holes and was wondering if they could be filled in with brass almost completely flush?
 
pterodactyl said:
I have a couple of tanks that have the holes and was wondering if they could be filled in with brass almost completely flush?
Click to expand...

The amount of heat it would take to do that will distort the tank horribly. You could use solder, though. There are metalworking solders that will stick to clean steel.

To tell the truth, though, I have been able to just use bondo with good success, and not even have to remove the badge mounts. Sanding down the bondo will also sand down any of the mount that might be higher than the profile of the tank.
 
Grinding it off pre-bondo is definitely easier, having now done it both ways.
 
Rich Ard said:
Grinding it off pre-bondo is definitely easier, having now done it both ways.
Click to expand...

I think I probably did it that way. Before the bondo, they push in a little when you hit them with the belt sander, so they still showed through the bondo on the final sanding.
 
Ah - I meant the way you had suggested way back at the beginning of the thread, sanding them down thin enough that they just about fell off
 
They often don't stick out much. Any of the ones that I did were almost flush, anyhoo. I would definitely grind them down if they stuck out more than 1/16" or so.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light

    • Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom