Mechanical Help (newbie)

P

Pmbjngls22

Been Around the Block
Okay, so I'm very novice with this kind of stuff. I've only owned and worked on a CT-90 up to this point, and I just recently bought a CL350. I got it running last night, but with some issues.

1. I am having problems adjusting the clutch. The engine will only start if I loosen the adjustment screw clockwise to the point where I have very little resistance at the clutch lever. Additionally, If I tighten it back up after the engine is started the wheel continues to turn even if I hold the clutch (and even after I apply the break). Is this normal? It's driving me crazy.

2. I tried to adjust the idle speed of each cylinder by leaving the spark plug cap on only one cylinder at a time. This works fine for the right side, but the engine will not start with just the left side. (is it supposed to be like this?) They will both start together, but If I unplug the right cap while they are running, then the whole engine turns off.

3. Last, the air from the left exhaust seems cooler than the right side exhaust. Potential problems?

I hope this is clear. Thanks for any help you guys can provide.
 
Someone else will more experience will chime in on the idling issues. Maybe get the one cylinder idling where you want it, then count how many turns out the screw is by screwing it in (lightly until you feel resistance) then back that one out that number of turns and do the same for the other side.

Heres a link to the manual to help you adjust the clutch:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/17611/bike/CB350-%20MANUAL.pdf
 
Yea. I thought about doing that. I wasn't sure if there was a more accurate way though and I wanted to know why the left cylinder could not run without the right.
 
Where did you here about adjusting idle like that? I won't go there...

As for the clutch. Sounds like your plates are stuck. Here's what I have done.. I 100% don't recommend it because I don't like the idea of anyone else getting hurt! Me is fine lol. I put on all my safety gear, ring the s??t out of the engine in neutral with clutch in and then kick her into first. One of three things happened to me. 1st broke chain 2nd bike stalled 3rd plates moved and I go roaring off into the sunset whistling frank Sinatra tunes.

I've done this technique dozens of times and NEARLY always worked lol

Or pull the clutch apart.. Duh!
 
No offense to all you guys, but please ignore all posts prior to this one. ;)

1.) I'll agree with the stuck clutch issue. Best way to get it free is to disassemble it, but that's not always practical. Try putting the bike into fist gear, holding in the clutch lever, and then rocking it front and back. The plates should break loose. If that doesn't work, put the bike's front wheel up against something highly immobile (brick wall, etc) and get it running in neutral. Give it a bit of throttle and shift into first.

2, 3.) These items are related. It sounds like your left cylinder isn't firing at all. If the bike has been sitting for any amount of time and you haven't put in a new battery, this is the first thing to do. Honda 350s and 360s are extremely touchy when it comes to battery. The battery needs to be operating at full capacity or the bike won't run properly. The most common symptom is that one cylinder will stop firing.
 
Sonreir said:
No offense to all you guys, but please ignore all posts prior to this one. ;)

1.) I'll agree with the stuck clutch issue. Best way to get it free is to disassemble it, but that's not always practical. Try putting the bike into fist gear, holding in the clutch lever, and then rocking it front and back. The plates should break loose. If that doesn't work, put the bike's front wheel up against something highly immobile (brick wall, etc) and get it running in neutral. Give it a bit of throttle and shift into first.

2, 3.) These items are related. It sounds like your left cylinder isn't firing at all. If the bike has been sitting for any amount of time and you haven't put in a new battery, this is the first thing to do. Honda 350s and 360s are extremely touchy when it comes to battery. The battery needs to be operating at full capacity or the bike won't run properly. The most common symptom is that one cylinder will stop firing.
Click to expand...

Okay. I'll try try that and see if it breaks the clutch loose. The battery is brand new....I'll check and see if it is getting any power when I get home.
 
Adjust the valves
Find the idle or pilot jets. by the time you find them and carefully remove them you should know what to look for and what to do about it . Basically clean as in medically clean save for the autoclave .
Adjust the valves
change the oil .oil is cheap engines are not . change the oil .
Adjust the valves
Adjust the cam chain
Adjust the clutch if an when you get the plates unstuck . It may take a clutch cover gasket and disassembly of the clutch . Care taken around the clutch hub . the cap screws around the pressure plate are , and their threads are , and the piece they screw into is easily destroyed . If you don't have a hand impact get one . If you don't have a torque wrench you trust down to 7-8 Ft/Lbs get one .
The clutch pressure plate retaining screws should see no more than 9 Ft/Lbs of Torque and NO power or air tools .

Ignore Matt at your own peril
Ignore me and I could care less it happens all the time .
If it works for you pass it on
YMMV

~kop
 
Pmbjngls22 said:
Okay. I'll try try that and see if it breaks the clutch loose. The battery is brand new....I'll check and see if it is getting any power when I get home.
Click to expand...

adjustments as mentioned above. checking the battery...and timing your ignition points to spec also comes to mind.
 
kopcicle said:
Adjust the valves
Find the idle or pilot jets. by the time you find them and carefully remove them you should know what to look for and what to do about it . Basically clean as in medically clean save for the autoclave .
Adjust the valves
change the oil .oil is cheap engines are not . change the oil .
Adjust the valves
Adjust the cam chain
Adjust the clutch if an when you get the plates unstuck . It may take a clutch cover gasket and disassembly of the clutch . Care taken around the clutch hub . the cap screws around the pressure plate are , and their threads are , and the piece they screw into is easily destroyed . If you don't have a hand impact get one . If you don't have a torque wrench you trust down to 7-8 Ft/Lbs get one .
The clutch pressure plate retaining screws should see no more than 9 Ft/Lbs of Torque and NO power or air tools .

Ignore Matt at your own peril
Ignore me and I could care less it happens all the time .
If it works for you pass it on
YMMV

~kop
Click to expand...


Noted. I'll look into it. Really starting to wish I had bought a bike that was fully functional considering how little time I have to do all of this. Live and learn I guess.
 
Pmbjngls22 said:
Noted. I'll look into it. Really starting to wish I had bought a bike that was fully functional considering how little time I have to do all of this. Live and learn I guess.
Click to expand...

cool thing though, once you get used to doing it. all these adjustments can be done in a couple hours and a few beers...and really won't need to be done often, unless it's going to be a daily rider
 
Pmbjngls22 said:
I'm sure you're right. Purchasing a new timing light right now!
Click to expand...

a timing light is in escence a turn-signal light, a battery and two wires. I bet you have those around!
 
Yea I know, but I found one that I didn't have to build for 10 bucks....

BTW, I got the clutch working by doing what you guys suggested. Works fine. Now, I just have to figure out what the hell is going on with the left cylinder.
 
One more question: What is the top speed on a CL-350. The bike has plenty of acceleration, but it seems to top out around 65mph....normal?
 
Not a clue. Just gonna check the timing and make sure everything is gapped correctly. See if that changes anything.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light

    • Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom