New DTT member 360T build

A side note, my gauges have some condensation that has built up from riding during humid nights, has anyone had this issue?? I really don't want to have to pry the trim off the gauges to open them up if I can avoid it.
 
It's pouring all weekend so on to some buffing, using mothers mag/aluminum polish and a drill attachment buffer.
happy with the results so far



 
I believe you can change the internals of the rear lights with the guts from some front ones or modify them with some other socket. I believe the housings front to back are the same.
 
Purchased a set of front turn signals from the selling thread, so hopefully within a week I'll have them to install.

As far as the polishing goes I was using this Ryobi buffing kit from Home Depot that was $10, just went out to buy a larger diameter wheel and found a set of three with different types of wheels to speed the polishing process. The kit comes with a 1/4 inch drill bit attachment, I'm just using some washers to hold the bit attachment to the buffing wheels. I'm using a Black and Decker corded drill that gives a decent rpm. I have a bench grinder that I put the buffing pad on originally but the grinder is very old and I can practically stop it with my finger...
 
So I have the new turn signals for the swap to achieve running/signal lights in the rear as the front does. with some mock up wiring I'm having trouble to get them to work with different wiring combinations. I can get just turn signal, or just running but not both the closest i got was when i hooked up to the headlight bucket but I can't get both filaments to work.
 
helps to hook the lights to a ground... :o

I now have running lights front and rear. The front is ON with low-beam and OFF with high-beam, and the rear is on all the time. I had a issue with blowing a fuse when having the front and rear on the same circuit, so I ran a wire to the headlight bucket and plugged into an open connector.

Although now my electric starter isn't working, maybe because I've had the lights on without the bike on for quite a while to test things to the point where the flasher stopped working. Battery drained too far, so I kickstarted it. 1st kick and started right up, held it at 3k and the signals started to work. I'll be leaving it on the tender overnight to charge back up because its raining here so no riding tonight.

Also going to check the front bucket to make sure I didn't pull a wire out (for the starter in particular)
 
Now the only thing about running rear lights like that is that it might drain the battery if your charging system is not good enough to keep up while you are riding. Time will tell with that, but its my belief you should be OK.

Might just have to spend more time above 2k rpm, might have to go to LED bulbs.
 
Probably a good idea to switch to LED 'dual filament' bulbs
Running lights should be connected to the blue/white stripe and orange/white stripe and will need wires run to rear from front
 
When switching over to LED's you will most likely need a flasher relay that handles LED's.

Otherwise your turn signals will flash at a higher rate with LED's. Not really a huge problem.
 
Battery not able to handle them for city riding :'( they just stopped flashing all together. Did just what you said crazypj. So I'll probably be looking into led bulbs, also thinking about upgrading the headlight at some point as I still have the sealed beam, any suggestions for either?
 
You need to make sure your keeping motor at 2,000rpm or more for battery to charge. If yur idling too much with indicators, running light, headlight, etc battery voltage can drop low enough to cause miss-fire or even cut out
I used a hole saw to cut through back of reflector, broke the bulb out and glued in a 35/35 H4 halogen bulb ;)
One filament had burned out anyway so sealed beam wasn't any good (I like to have high and low beams working)
Pictures are in the 360 build/blog somewhere ::)
 
Thanks pj, I understand the charging issue, just wish it wasn't a problem in stop and go traffic. I did a 400 mile trip yesterday with almost no time under 3500 rpm and had no problem. Never had a problem beyond the flashers just not flashing in the past (no misfires our stalling)

I saw your headlight modification, my headlight still works and I'm trying to keep all the stock parts in case I decide to go back to stock. How would you say the improvement is for the 35/35 H4?
 
purchased some LED 1175 bulbs today, they are bright white put them in today thought I was fine. Tonight go to check them out in the dark and the signals look green >:(

So I tried it in the brake light cause I was planning on getting a led bulb for that too but wasn't sure if it was the same bulb at the time. The bulb works perfect in the Brake light below are the bulbs in white. I'm going to look for amber versions for my turn signals tomorrow I think autozone had them too.



Comparison, LED Left Turn Signal, LED Brake Light, Stock Right Turn Signal
 
The thought crossed my mind, the auto parts stores only have the single stage in amber so looks like I'll be ordering them online. I was thinking about doing all red on the back but then I'd want to change the lens color. I just can't win.
 
They do make red lenses, I've though about them myself.

That tail light fix tape you see at the auto parts store, the stuff that is clear and colored? LEDs shouldn't get HOT per say, get some of that and tape them suckers up the color you want them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light

    • Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom