Restoration of a 74 RD350

Last Chance said:
Asking around, it looks like not much would be interchangeable.
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There might be some more obscure parts that could interchange, but agreed with Rider, if you need parts the best would be to ask here or try to find a parts bike that isn't all hacked up- probably not an easy task either.
 
Last Chance said:
Ok thanks, the bike is 100% original except the exhaust. He has the original exhaust. I figured I would pay alot more for original parts. Then the asking price of the RD100. A friend of mine asked why would I cannibalize a good bike. I told him the goal was for me to complete the RD350. Not to just have a nice looking bike that I could buy. If that makes any sense. LOL
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If the RD100 is a good price, might be worth scooping up.. those are becoming like hen's teeth
 
I have a RD350 tank with the original paint that came with the extra bike parts. It has some very minor dents it. You have to have the light and angle to see them. Any suggestions on someone who does that. Everyone in my area won't work on motorcycle tanks. I hate to break the paint. But the final build isn't going to be 100% OEM. So not sure the original paint matters.
 
Luugo86 said:
If the RD100 is a good price, might be worth scooping up.. those are becoming like hen's teeth
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It's a pretty bike. Not sure the price is right.
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Rider52 said:
It is best to stick with the same year groups and models. Some parts from other models/years will work but guessing is expensive. It's good to ask questions before buying. I'm sure someone here has either done it or knows it won't work. I mostly stick with Hondas, especially 70s models as I've got a long history with them. However, I do get stuck and I do get surprised. Here's an example of some of my craziness. A 1972 Honda CB500 engine in a 1978 Honda CB550 frame. The forks are bits and pieces of 1972 Honda CL350, 1972 Honda CB350/4 and 1974 Honda CL360. I knew these parts would essentially bolt together...long experience but it was still a puzzle. The gas tank is from an unknown year XL250 it will kind of work but is only sitting on the frame at this time. It may or may not be used. This is a "sweep the floor" bike. I had all the parts in the garage so I have $0 invested in this bike at the moment. Adding carbs, electrics and all the other little bits will push this into the $1000 range quickly.

Another project is a mix/match of Harley Sportster parts. I have a 1995 Sportster (Evolution) 883 engine sitting in a 1982 Sportster (Ironhead) frame. The engine is almost but not quite a bolt in. The top engine mounts on the frame need modification to use the Evolution 883 engine mounting plates. Not a big deal, but it requires cutting and welding. A friend gave me a 1984 Sportster gas tank...you would think it would bolt on to the 1982 frame but it doesn't. I'm not out any money so no harm/no foul. However if I had bought this gas tank on EBay or FB market, it would have cost close to $200, maybe more.
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That's going to be a unique bike.
 
Looking good in primer! Now's the time to go over it with a fine tooth comb to deal with any rough edges. There's always welding spatter, mig wire, rough stamping edges, etc. that can clean up very easily with a file or Dremel. It's a small thing, but but makes the restored frame that much nicer. Also, check any threads for missed broken bolts, and chase the threads before you paint. Trivial to do now, but a real pain to deal with when discovered with the bike half assembled with fresh (and fragile) new paint. I always suggest getting most (or all) of the bike together and working before paint, but I realize this is a lot of extra work for most projects. Its also good for knowing you have all good (and correct) fasteners and washers, and that no parts are bent or distorted. There are few parts that take more time to trial fit and assemble than to re-finish because of an oversight. Most parts are very gratifying to make beautifully new again, but a disagreeable chore if you have to do it over. For example, you can suffer a LOT of cosmetic damage getting a side stand installed if there is a fitment issue you weren't aware of.
 
jpmobius said:
Looking good in primer! Now's the time to go over it with a fine tooth comb to deal with any rough edges. There's always welding spatter, mig wire, rough stamping edges, etc. that can clean up very easily with a file or Dremel. It's a small thing, but but makes the restored frame that much nicer. Also, check any threads for missed broken bolts, and chase the threads before you paint. Trivial to do now, but a real pain to deal with when discovered with the bike half assembled with fresh (and fragile) new paint. I always suggest getting most (or all) of the bike together and working before paint, but I realize this is a lot of extra work for most projects. Its also good for knowing you have all good (and correct) fasteners and washers, and that no parts are bent or distorted. There are few parts that take more time to trial fit and assemble than to re-finish because of an oversight. Most parts are very gratifying to make beautifully new again, but a disagreeable chore if you have to do it over. For example, you can suffer a LOT of cosmetic damage getting a side stand installed if there is a fitment issue you weren't aware of.
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Thanks for the suggestions. I was thinking about buying a soda blaster from Harbor Freight for the smaller parts. The shop that welded the kickstand back on. Also said they could sandblast the parts. I need to inventory what needs to be cleaned up. Then I will decide which way to go. I like the idea of pre-fitting everything before painting frame. Since I am working with one hand(left) and a prosthetic arm (right). I have a good chance to nick things up. If parts need adjusting to fit.At this point I need to have game plan of a sequence of assembly. With pre-fitting everything. I can find out if there are peices missing. Like washers, rubber grommets etc. Never know if the person before didn't assemble correctly. Good thing I have manuals.
Thanks again
 
Actual sandblasting is generally way too harsh for anything other than frames and swingarms. (kind of too harsh for them too!) If you have enough compressed air for a soda blaster, I'd like to recommend getting a glass beading cabinet. A bit of money, but vastly more useful, and you can use all sorts of different media without making a mess. So worth it, you'll wonder how you got along without one. Also, probably better for your one handedness. (I lost all use of my right hand/arm 6 months ago (can mostly pick up a cup of coffee now, so getting better) so I have some understanding) Also don't dismiss the value of wire wheels. Stainless steel or brass, mounted in hand drill ( or hand drill in a vise), drill press, or bench grinder, they can create a variety of excellent results for fairly cheap. Takes some experimentation to learn what finishes can be expected. Scotch brite wheels, especially mounted on a bench grinder, are great too. Indispensable in my shop.

Trial assembly. It's a good habit to get used to. Most people's experience is repairing things, so repeatedly assembling anything is a real drag. Any fabricator, on the other hand, commonly assembles things maybe a dozen(s!) times getting things right, so trial fitting things one time to just check is nothing. And, it's a lot less trouble than it sounds. In the main, getting any part cleaned and prepped for final finish is 90% of the job, so trial assembly is very little extra trouble. Also, assembling and disassembling an entire motorcycle without any oil, grease, thread lockers or concern for proper torque is super easy and discounting the time fiddling with parts to get perfect fit or assembly sequence (time you totally get back under actual final assembly) is quite fast. Plus, you get practice, which makes it much, much easier to assemble awkward parts without scratching them, and improves your chances of noticing anything wrong or out of place. Personally, I find final assembly a great pleasure. All brand new (like) perfect shiny parts, nothing to fix, tightening every bolt for the very last time, the certainty of a brand new perfect motorcycle at the end. Happy days!
 
jpmobius said:
Actual sandblasting is generally way too harsh for anything other than frames and swingarms. (kind of too harsh for them too!) If you have enough compressed air for a soda blaster, I'd like to recommend getting a glass beading cabinet. A bit of money, but vastly more useful, and you can use all sorts of different media without making a mess. So worth it, you'll wonder how you got along without one. Also, probably better for your one handedness. (I lost all use of my right hand/arm 6 months ago (can mostly pick up a cup of coffee now, so getting better) so I have some understanding) Also don't dismiss the value of wire wheels. Stainless steel or brass, mounted in hand drill ( or hand drill in a vise), drill press, or bench grinder, they can create a variety of excellent results for fairly cheap. Takes some experimentation to learn what finishes can be expected. Scotch brite wheels, especially mounted on a bench grinder, are great too. Indispensable in my shop.

Trial assembly. It's a good habit to get used to. Most people's experience is repairing things, so repeatedly assembling anything is a real drag. Any fabricator, on the other hand, commonly assembles things maybe a dozen(s!) times getting things right, so trial fitting things one time to just check is nothing. And, it's a lot less trouble than it sounds. In the main, getting any part cleaned and prepped for final finish is 90% of the job, so trial assembly is very little extra trouble. Also, assembling and disassembling an entire motorcycle without any oil, grease, thread lockers or concern for proper torque is super easy and discounting the time fiddling with parts to get perfect fit or assembly sequence (time you totally get back under actual final assembly) is quite fast. Plus, you get practice, which makes it much, much easier to assemble awkward parts without scratching them, and improves your chances of noticing anything wrong or out of place. Personally, I find final assembly a great pleasure. All brand new (like) perfect shiny parts, nothing to fix, tightening every bolt for the very last time, the certainty of a brand new perfect motorcycle at the end. Happy days!
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Thanks for the info. This is my first total restoration. Worked on 2 strokes from teenager to early twenties. But never took one down to the frame. Couldn't afford a RD350 when I was a teenager. So when I had the opportunity to get this bike. I didn't hesitate to scoop it up. Buying a 74 RD350 completely done. I wouldn't get the satisfaction. Opposed to restoring myself.
 
Had another setback but I am back on the move again. My knee gave out and my shin landed hard on the footrest of my power chair. Of course I didn't want to go to emergency. But I was getting so much grief from the family. I decided to go and of course with this being my only good leg. They kept me in the hospital monitoring my leg for clots. Also put a filter in to catch a clot. If one happens to break loose. So I am back home and will get back to working on the bike.
I am going to make another thread. But if you read this.
I am looking for a complete rubber set for the RD350. All I have come across so far. Are sets on Ebay but sellers are from India Is it advisable to by on ebay from India?
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So do the wrenches and pliers fit into the blue arm? Because that's badass. I teach engineering in high school. One of my former students designs prosthetics now. Would have no idea if he's involved with yours, but it's great what they're coming up with these days.
 
Yes everything you see attaches to the blue arm. I am not sure how well the screwdriver attachments will work. On the end of the arm is a removable locking swivel attachment. So you can adjust the angle of whatever tool you are using. It should help when wrenching on a project. I have sent my vehicles to a repair shop. For things I could do myself. This new arm should get me back under the hood.
The arm with flames on it. Is battery powered. It has a electronic pickups that when I flex a muscle in my forearm. It activates the hand to open and close. When you open the hand completely. The pointing finger will twitch. Then you move the arm up,down, side by side or in and out. Each one of those slight movements will give you a different finger configuration. And yes one of the movements activates the middle finger.
I don't know if I can download a video here. But if it's like another forum I am on. Maybe this forum is the same.
The other forum I am on is for my pet tortoises. I just had some hatchlings a few weeks ago. That is mama with a baby.
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My Father was an avid amateur herpetologist, He had a huge tortoise that looked like your mama here, I don't remember the breed. That is pretty awesome that you got some hatchlings.
 
Luugo86 said:
My Father was an avid amateur herpetologist, He had a huge tortoise that looked like your mama here, I don't remember the breed. That is pretty awesome that you got some hatchlings.
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It is a sulcata tortoise. I didn't want any hatchlings but my male broke through the barrier. I have to keep the male and female apart.
 
Luugo86 said:
Well they are pretty gorgeous creatures, that's kind of funny he 'Kool-Aid Man'd' the barrier to get to the female
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They are unbelievably strong and smart. They will study the barrier and figure out a way to get thru. They will then be persistent on getting thru.
 
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