Running on one cylinder cb350

Re: Re: Running on one cylinder cb350

Jramos13 said:
TDC is LT in the tick mark, the photo doesnt show the tick mark very well but its in the middle of the coil prong thing next to the F (hope that made sense),

if its an overly rich mixture should it go away once i accelerate? because this happens mostly at idle, once i accelerate it misses sometimes but it runs
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possible. i would start by sitting down and setting float height, idle and sync again. not much you can do about timing for now :)
 
Yea, at least the battery is good i charge it yesterday and it read 13.05, this morning 12.97, so at least the battery is holding charge, i cutted about half an inch of the plug cable and put the boot in again, i clean the spark plug with a wire brush and some carb cleaner, i also noticed the the switch j was using for my ignition a 12v 30amp one was not working propperly i had to tap it slighly so the ignition would turn on,

So i replace the switch, all im missing now is wiring the switch to start it up again!
 
I found the problem, the cable at the coil was broken but the heatshrink made it look as if it still was held together,

Like i said in the beguining, my build from hell keeps giving issues, i fixed that and it ran fine for a day, now the fracking think wont accelerate pass 6k and bogs heavely till it dies , it was even backring thru the carb, i tried to start it but it just wont go, sometimes it starts but dies as soon as i accelerate, i check the diodes in my rectifier regulator and they are good but is it posiblle that its damage even if all the diodes are good?

Edit: i also meassure 26 AC volts in the battery with the bike off,is the normal? Im sire it does have something to do with my issue
 
There is no AC in the battery with the engine off, and should be none when the engine is running.

If you are reading AC with engine off, then the Voltmeter is faulty.
 
oh well, i guess il have to get a new one, anyway, could a bad reg/rec cause the problem i mention?
 
A bad rectifier, when the engine is running, will allow AC into the battery, and it will eventually kill the battery. But with the engine off, there is no AC to measure anywhere on the bike. That would have to be a faulty meter.
 
i understand that, but i mean the Not reving apss 6k and the bike dying, ti ditn do that like a day ago
 
I don't have enough information to help with the single cylinder, but the voltage stuff is pretty clear.

A weak battery, low voltage to the coils, a weak ignition switch, a fuel issue, lots of possibilities on the miss.

But there is no AC on the bike when it is not running. Unless the law of gravity can be repealed, there never will be AC on a non-running bike.
 
I figured out the one cylinder issue, it was a broken cable at the coil, i fixed that and now was firing in both cylinders, it was running fine for a day but yesterday when i was going to take it for a ride it just dint want to accelerate pass 6k rpm, it was missing on the left side, and backfired thru the carb at one time, and no power at all, in sure it cant be the carbs, the bike was jeted at the dyno amd ran preatty good, making 27hp and 18 torque
 
Stuck advance?

Cracked cv diaphragm

That's the first places I would look.

The diaphragm lifts the slide around 5 k rpm. If it isn't rising, 6 k rpm is a likely limit.


Sent from planet Earth using mysterious electronic devices and Tapatalk
 
Im running mikunis vm28 and electronic ignition, i cleaned the advancer really good and it moves freely! Is it possible that it could be electric related?
 
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