I have spent a lot of time polishing covers and other things for my bike lately and after cleaning I use a Dremel sanding brush followed by 400, 600, 800 (wet), 1000 (wet), 1500 (wet) and 2000 (wet) grit sandpaper. Once all that is done I wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and put on the Mothers' Billet Aluminum polish. All these tips from JRK.
Sleek & Sexy CL360
- Thread starter SausageMahoney
- Start date
I'd suspect that the wire brush is getting hot and burnishing/melting into the material, is it steel wire or copper? On aluminum I'd only use wire by hand to clean and then only copper or plastic. Ultra fine grit will dull the surface... but that's a good thing, as long as it's consistent a quick buff with a wheel... on a drill or the like will have it looking better than new.
Keep in mind that all the "raw" aluminum parts on the bike are not raw but have a coating on them to keep the aluminum from oxidizing. That's why all that stuff turns yellow after 30+ years. You've clearly gone through this on that side cover all ready, which is good, it's the only way to get a good polish. I managed on my side cover to completely resurface the scratch out... which makes the wall thinner, but looks great.
As you can see I completely ground the outer float line away. And went with a spun finish rather than a polish (I did it all on a machine lathe so that was just easier)
Oh, and of course don't forget to bend the shifter out so you don't just put that groove right back in it.
Keep in mind that all the "raw" aluminum parts on the bike are not raw but have a coating on them to keep the aluminum from oxidizing. That's why all that stuff turns yellow after 30+ years. You've clearly gone through this on that side cover all ready, which is good, it's the only way to get a good polish. I managed on my side cover to completely resurface the scratch out... which makes the wall thinner, but looks great.
As you can see I completely ground the outer float line away. And went with a spun finish rather than a polish (I did it all on a machine lathe so that was just easier)
Oh, and of course don't forget to bend the shifter out so you don't just put that groove right back in it.
agreed... if you can get your hands on a buffing wheel you can just use compounds to get it to shine!... just did these for a customer... take your time...to get a clean polish job you will have to use sanding paper, and lube with something like WD40 (i feel that is the best and even use it on my wheel) but if you have the $$$ dimamond compound is what is up!!! every case on my motor on my TX is polished... takes a long time... my next build i will powder them all... AFTER i polish them so i can use a translucent or candy powder
Thanks guys, really appreciate the help. I'm quickly learning a lot, but I'm still something of a noob at this. Going to try to make it to the hardware store tonight to pick up some polishing compound and a polish wheel.
Mysta2-- your bike is one of my favorites on this forum. I've been enjoying going through the build on your dropbars website. If you've still got the mold for your seat, I'd almost be tempted to have you build one for me if you're interested. I think it's at the perfect stance, nice and low. I've been contemplating building my own modeled after yours, but having never glassed before and not having any software/machines it would probably end up pretty mediocre. Let me know!
Mysta2-- your bike is one of my favorites on this forum. I've been enjoying going through the build on your dropbars website. If you've still got the mold for your seat, I'd almost be tempted to have you build one for me if you're interested. I think it's at the perfect stance, nice and low. I've been contemplating building my own modeled after yours, but having never glassed before and not having any software/machines it would probably end up pretty mediocre. Let me know!
NEVER WIRE WHEEL ALUMINUM YOU WANT TO POLISH.
Think about it. Why scratch up something you want shiny? To remove the old clear coat use EasyOff oven cleaner. Then you can just buff up what should be smooth aluminum underneath. A buffing wheel mounted on any old electric motor and some compound is all you need to turn aluminum chrome like.
Think about it. Why scratch up something you want shiny? To remove the old clear coat use EasyOff oven cleaner. Then you can just buff up what should be smooth aluminum underneath. A buffing wheel mounted on any old electric motor and some compound is all you need to turn aluminum chrome like.
Ok, I've thought about it. I disagree. What if you have a few scratches that went through the factory clear? I think the chance of this is pretty good on bikes that are 25-35 years old. A little bit of work and you can take them out and make aluminum look like chrome. However, I wouldn't use a wire wheel.zixxerboy said:
i use a wire wheel on every item i have ever polished... it is what you are supposed to do, use a fine brass wire wheel to remove any inprefections, major scratches in the metal... then you hit the sanding parts... i polish parts for customers and myself ALL The time... as long as you are always polishing in the same direction you will be fine
Hi:
If you're interested in a battery pack that lets you run that clean, naked, look on your bike, see here:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=6805.0
Shameless plug
--Chris
If you're interested in a battery pack that lets you run that clean, naked, look on your bike, see here:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=6805.0
Shameless plug
--Chris
so... uh... yeah. probably should have done a little more research on this one.
ahhhhh. much better. still needs a little work, but at least i figured out how to polish aluminum the right way.
ahhhhh. much better. still needs a little work, but at least i figured out how to polish aluminum the right way.
It's starting to look pretty good. It will just take some time and work.
JRK, I will use a wire wheel next time I polish.
Sounds funny but scratching the surface is how it becomes shiny in the first place. It has to go through the stages, and even a buffing wheel and compound "Scratches" the surface. That's how it becomes shiny....I believe??
JRK, I will use a wire wheel next time I polish.
Sounds funny but scratching the surface is how it becomes shiny in the first place. It has to go through the stages, and even a buffing wheel and compound "Scratches" the surface. That's how it becomes shiny....I believe??
As I'm sure JRK5892 knows its got a bit to do with the type of brush you use and how you use it. With a steel brush you can all too quickly burn the part and even leave some of the steel behind which is nothing but a big mess. And technically speaking you don't want to "scratch" the part, you just need to remove material down to the lowest point and leave it smooth. Polish is purely about smoothness... a surface that doesn't breakup light. Scratching it a bunch is usually the easiest way to achieve this, but saying that you need to scratch it to polish it is a little sideways. Using the wrong kind of brush can leave deep gouges in the part that will take a long time to sand out... burnishing the crap out of it with a steel brush will ironicly leave you with a very shiny part but it won't be refletive it will just be covered in shiny scratches because melting stuff tends to make it shiny (it's like flame polishing acrylic). I have no doubt that JRK5892 can use steel and get a fantastic finish but you have to know what you're doing and know what kinds of pressures to give it what speeds it can handle and when to back off.
Yeah, learned the hard way about too much wire brushing. I ended up sanding the grooves out, and working on up to wet sanding with 2500 sandpaper, then going nuts with buffing wheels on the dremel and some polishing compound and now it's looking spic and span.
On Saturday, Jordan and I got the engine off the frame.
Jordan helped with cleaning up the frame for paint, and pissing off the neighbors with brake cleaner & super clean all over the back alley:
Painted the underside and the brackets of the front fender with anti-rust paint after getting all the grime out and sanding down the rust. Got some orange peel since I used a glossy paint, but it looks worse in the photos and since this is a pretty discreet part, I'm just gonna leave it alone:
After the frame was free of all the grime, grease, and rust... let it air dry overnight and started painting it today (will be powdering it next winter):
Sorry about the messy garage. I need to get ahold of some more shelves and organize that space.
So after a few more coats on the frame, I'll let it sit overnight and try to get some better profile and detail shots in the outdoor light tomorrow. I'm also painting everything but the springs on my rear shocks, I'll have pictures of that tomorrow as well.
On Saturday, Jordan and I got the engine off the frame.
Jordan helped with cleaning up the frame for paint, and pissing off the neighbors with brake cleaner & super clean all over the back alley:
Painted the underside and the brackets of the front fender with anti-rust paint after getting all the grime out and sanding down the rust. Got some orange peel since I used a glossy paint, but it looks worse in the photos and since this is a pretty discreet part, I'm just gonna leave it alone:
After the frame was free of all the grime, grease, and rust... let it air dry overnight and started painting it today (will be powdering it next winter):
Sorry about the messy garage. I need to get ahold of some more shelves and organize that space.
So after a few more coats on the frame, I'll let it sit overnight and try to get some better profile and detail shots in the outdoor light tomorrow. I'm also painting everything but the springs on my rear shocks, I'll have pictures of that tomorrow as well.
garagedoreen
Been Around the Block
yeah, maybe next winter for the powdercoating. If you take the frame anymore apart your going to probibly run into problems with the rear swing arm. If you powdercoat it your going to want to rebush the rear swingarm and put new bearings in the head stock. probibly like another $130 dollors more. Just put it together and enjoy it for now. This will give you something to do next year..... 
I'm confused. I suggested scratching stuff you want to make shiny is a bad idea and 2 different people take me task.
If there's a nick or scratch in the part sand and polish out that area. How a wire wheel cleans up a scratch is beyond me. Typically under the faded clear is tarnished but very smooth aluminum. To scratch it all up just to remove the clear is just... F-ing stupid.
Why not use 40 grit sandpaper to remove the clear coating? Exactly!
If there's a nick or scratch in the part sand and polish out that area. How a wire wheel cleans up a scratch is beyond me. Typically under the faded clear is tarnished but very smooth aluminum. To scratch it all up just to remove the clear is just... F-ing stupid.
Why not use 40 grit sandpaper to remove the clear coating? Exactly!
garagedoreen
Been Around the Block
man... you take nice pictures....