Yet another CL350 rebuild...HELP!!!

Most folks do not run Honda 350s without a battery. They just don't run that well without one. My observation is that most get a smaller battery. That's if you're okay going kick-only. For the stock electric starter you'll want a battery with close to the same CCA as the stock one. A few people on here have switched out batteries for a single large capacitor (I believe Kanticoy's CB360 "Gretta" is one of them), but doing so means possibly reworking the wiring some and definitely reducing the bike's overall draw on electrical system (such as removing lights or completely switching all lights to LEDS).
 
So, I have another issue. Just replaced the battery; I am not getting any spark to my plugs, I broke out the Ohm Meter to see if there was any current coming through anywhere, and current stops at the first lead on the solenoid. Aside from just cleaning the terminals on the solenoid, and trying again is there another way to test the unit to see if it is spent?

And assuming that the unit is done-for; should I pick up a used one off of eBay, or should I go with an aftermarket one?
 
When you say the first lead on the solenoid, do you mean the heavy gauge wire between the battery positive and the starter solenoid? And by "at" do you mean that the current flows through that wire and not out the other terminal? If so, I think you are correct to assume your solenoid might be the culprit. In addition to cleaning the terminals, I would also check that it is well grounded. Also, although its a crude method, IIRC you can jump the two terminals to make sure the starter spins (obviously be very careful when doing that). If jumping the terminals doesn't work you probably have another issue to deal with.

P.S. Few other things - (1) is the fuse still good? (2) Is the battery ground good? and (3) Are the wires in the proper places? (I know this last one sounds stupid but it's been done before)
 
Yes, just as you put it. I read around a bit on the issue, and according to various forums and websites the easiest way to tel that you have a no good unit is to listen for a loud click when you connect the Solenoid to the battery. It makes no such click when connected.

Is that what I'm supposed to be looking for?

And what do you mean by jumping the two terminals? Just skip over the solenoid and connect those two leads? Wouldn't that potentially burn stuff up? I saw somewhere that you can test an electric start motor by hooking it up to a car battery to check that it still turns over. GOOD?/BAD? Sounds kind of like what you're explaining to me though.

I haven't checked the fuse yet, I plan on doing that next but I'm a pussy when it comes to cold weather and Colorado got some random snow. And I think that all the wires are connected through the harness as they should be, however I have two rogue wires that I cannot find a mate for. One is a brown wire in the light bucket, and the other is a green wire by the coils. As I said I cannot find the mate to it anywhere, and I have collectively pored over the problem for hours and hours.
 
Jumping the terminals means connecting them TEMPORARILY with a screwdriver or other object so the terminals are connected. This will turn the starter motor (if it is good) and if that's the case then there is something wrong with your solenoid or the wiring to it.

Be careful - make sure the bike is in neutral before you try this.
 
I would probably use a spare bit of heavy gauge insulated wire but a screwdriver would do the trick. As for your spare wires, the brown is a leftover (for european models or something IIRC) and the green by the coils is probably for the horn.
 
In other words I need not worry too much about it for right now? Haha.

Yeah, I think I'll put down the center stand as well.

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Well that's good. Probably best to pickup another solenoid. I think I have one in the garage if you are interested. My 350 is kick only so I don't need it. It's yours for the price of shipping.
 
Modifying your bike to remove the e-start system is quite easy. Do a search - it's been covered lots here on DTT and over on HondaTwins. I did a complete custom harness which would also be an option (though a time consuming one). Get a stock wiring diagram and it should help you figure it out. Basically, you are removing the solenoid and associated wires. Once that's done you can also remove the starter motor, starter motor chain, and starter motor gear to shed some additional weight.
 
Yeah, when you remove the starter motor there is a rather large hole into the left crankcase that needs to be plugged. Easiest way to do it is get a expansion plug from Autozone or another cheap auto parts store. Or, you could get a nice block off plug from DTT member CrazyPJ :)
 
So I ordered some Scrambler pipes, I'll get them on Friday, and may get a new set of coils for free if the guy can track them down.

I'm pretty sure that bad wires on the existing coils may be the culprit as to why I'm not getting any spark. So I think I'm gonna jury rig something up to see if that is the case.


After I get everything together and running again I do believe I'm going to pull everything and clean clean clean.

Or maybe I should do that before....?

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Be careful. "Pulling" parts to "clean" is a slippery slope. If you want to be riding I'd just focus on getting the thing running and save cleaning/painting/polishing for the winter. Once you clean something then the part next to it bugs you (because now it looks crap in comparison), then the thing next to that, and so on and so forth. Before you know it the bike is completely apart.
 
....true.

Got her started today, but she keeps dying when I try to close the choke. I've tried adjusting the needle valves but ran out of time. Any pointer when I start doing that again in the next couple days?
 
And I thought my grandpa was going to blow the whole thing up, he was almost redlining it in neutral. Black smoke spewing out, all the tell tale signs of BAD. I almost pooped.

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So, I can't get her to start at all now. I thought she was running too rich so I messed with the idle screws, wouldn't start. So then I adjusted the air jets, nope. I even put on the air boxes and I ended up just about killing the battery trying to get her started. I just don't get it. And even when it was running the other day, it would die when I tried to close the choke up. I can't figure it out.

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