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Recent Posts

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1
There is no way I am going to miss this!

Crazy
2
Bodywork / Painting / Plating / Re: Welding Gas Tanks
« Last post by datadavid on Today at 03:23:04 »
https://twistedsifter-files-wordpress-com.cdn.ampproject.org/i/s/twistedsifter.files.wordpress.com/2015/08/welds-by-scott-raabe-10.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
I dont really get how one can weld that cold. I would get fired for welding too slow to get those colors, or weld in an argon box. Or have someone hold a gas nozzle on the welds.
3
Bodywork / Painting / Plating / Re: Welding Gas Tanks
« Last post by datadavid on Today at 03:20:20 »
I'm glad you found some good drugs.  LOL.  A welder is very much a person.
I prefer being called weldician
4
Bodywork / Painting / Plating / Re: Welding Gas Tanks
« Last post by datadavid on Today at 03:19:57 »
I'd heard they were good, friend had one but was a pretty shitty weldor (weldor is the person, welder is the machinery - todays English lesson  8) )  He never got good welds with it but more to his lack of skill. Personally I never tried it, he didn't want me doing better welds than him (wouldn't be difficult). I got a microtorch a few years ago (before they were made in China for $45.00  ::) ) Works OK on anything over 0.010" thick, maybe thinner but I haven't tried it.
Over the years I've found good regulators are worth the money as they will hold a constant LOW pressure (4 psi or less) The best ones have all been two stage though, single stage regulators always have a problem at real low or real high pressure in my experience. 
Stainless steel is real difficult to gas weld paricularly if you can't use inert gas inside a tube, it can look good but is almost always porous, if it looks like a metal sponge, it is  ;D
Youre not really supposed to weld stainless with acetylene, but its handy to know in a pinch!
5
After the first components turned out nicely, the work can go on.

The next step is working on the rear section of the frame.

We'll be using the rear mount on the engine also as pivoting point for the swingarm axle...Just like the original Sportster does it, too.

The very first thing here is...our CNC...





6
Time for the first Test Assembly.

The top tube is 100mm OD Aluminum, tack welded to the machined steering head.

On the bottom we did a cut out, to get the engine closer to the frame tube.

Right now it's of course still way too long. It'll be cut to size later on.









7
Test Fitting the front engine mount...







And now the Money shot..

Front engine mount, Steering Head and Fork Assembly

8
After a few hours on the Machine we ended up with this







9
Once I've finished the design the guys at our shop machined the parts for me.

Here are some pictures from the process.

First the Steering Head...








Now the front engine mount...






10
As I have now the reuired measurements for the front engine mount, the first few components could be designed.

The very first part is the steering head and front engine mount.

Here are some screenshots from my 3D models.





These are 2 parts, which are bolted together.

Both are CNC cut out of a solid block of Aluminum.

The steering head is also hollowed out from the rear, to save weight.

Why cutting these out of a solid block?

- It's extremly strong
- It gives you perfect control over the geometry. A welded assembly will never be as precise.
- I've never seen anybody else do it this way...so why not build something special ?!
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