Recent content by eram

Lighte from other models of the period may fit too, but I need a 7"-er that will bolt right on my new project... Thaaaaaaaanks!

PJ machines nice plugs on this site that do the job perfectly. Search his marketplace posts or pm him to see if he still makes them? They're not expensive at all ad seal perfectly.

$10/tire is a great price and saves you the headache. I've mounted all my tires with irons and curse myself each time. If you do DIY, definitely get something to protect the paint as mentioned above...I matter how careful you are, on your first time you'll bang them up pretty bad without.

Possibly, if there's an air leak making that side run lean and get hotter than the other, but the advice above is more likely. While its running, pull the spark plug boot off the plug that's on the right. If the bike stays running, your left if firing. If it dies immediately, it's not...if it...

No..it won't

This was just a typo in the original post...first line should read too lean and go up a size. Otherwise solid info.

Theres a couple floating around on the board...try searching 360 kick spring or something. Here's one in a good build thread: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=20106.msg214987#msg214987

Make sure to check your grounds too. Bad grounds can do wonky things like make things light up when they shouldn't.

Hook up the green-yellow wire to the light, and hook up the ground wire (solid green), but leave the brown disconnected. Then disconnect the front and rear switch wires (don't leave the wires attached and take the front switch off, because when the button pops out it's completing the...

The brown wire is your running light and should go to ignition power or if you have a headlight light on/off switch to that switched power. The brown should share the same power source as your idiot lights (but completing ground on the light green neutral indicator wire illuminates the light)...

Think I have a bunch here from when I replaced with sealed bearings... PM me and I'll send 'em out to you.

The "1/2 R/G" should be put into the little pin under the rear chain cover on the engine case if I'm understanding you correctly... It connects to the rod there and will ground out when in neutral. The other R/G needs to go up to your neutral indicator light to ground the circuit so the light...

This was a good resource I used to diagnose the R/R on one of my newer bikes: http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf Just realize that it's talking about an R/R and not separate regulator and rectifier units as the CJ360 has (so put the probes in the appropriate spot)

What's the story on those bars? 7/8" I presume? Price shipped to 61802 please? :D

66replica does a good walkthrough here: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=21836 The two links HerrDeacon gave in that discussion are also pretty good: http://sites.google.com/site/ingerslevclassicbikes/parts-for-sale/meter-gauge-faces/how-to-disassemble-meter-gauges...