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Okay, thanks, exactly what I needed to know. One more thing, early, Barnett, also stated that the cam gear may be off by a few teeth, now, in order to fix that, do I just rotate the sprocket around to where it needs to be, or does, "off a few teeth," or that phrase I have heard of a cam gear...

Sorry for the confusion, but, and you may not remember as you said its been a while since you have done anything pertaining to this but, and sorry for being a bit of an idiot to the whole camshaft timing thing. By left side of the engine do you mean the side with the tach cover, or the side with...

So youre saying if the cam gear is unbolted and then the engine is spun, and the cam gear spins freely of the camshaft, that is wrong?

Okay, just for reference, by left side, which side do you mean?

Yea thats just the angle at which I took the picture, so problem is, after figuring it all out and lining it up, it still faces the same problem, engine spins freely, then again, wont turn anymore, this time, the L mark on the sprocket is down, and the LT on the rotor is on the index mark and I...

ahhhhhhh yesss, I see that now.Thank you very much. Let me buy you a bee....rr errrr I mean Pepsi, right, let me buy you a Pepsi.

alright, thanks for all the help

Ahhh, sorry, did not quite get this section, the area that is circled in black is the section I am interested in, while circled in red is the part I do not quite grasp. Could you explain the "cutout of the cam sprocket rubber damper to the cam case mating surface by raising," and, "when...

Yea, I had enough sense not to stand up on the wrench and break something. Thanks I will check that out.

So I just recently had enough time to get my 350 engine back together, and for some reason the piston hits the valve (im guessing) and the engine will not rotate any further. The engine stops just short of the LF mark, and the cylinder wants to raise up off the crankcase, I have not tried to...

Hey guys, after not being able to work on anything for a good while it feels good to have to some time to work on my CL 350 engine. I am looking at replacing the gaskets on the top end and measuring the rings just to make sure they are in spec and other things to that matter. But anyway, I have...

When I turn it all the way in, it slows down just a bit. The left carb starts popping and stuttering

No it does not settle back down, what I meant was that as I give it throttle, it returns back down to that high idle speed. Sorry for the confusion. Checked for leaks, there are none.

Okay so, sorry I neglected the mixture screw, turning it all the way and far out has no effect, on either side.

Okay, I will check out that air filter then thanks, and also, when you say stuck valve, do you mean one of the valves within the engine, or the carb, sorry for the questioning on that but I am not that good with all the vocab just yet. And also yea, I neglected to see what happens when I turn it...

Sorry for the separate replies, im currently working on it now. Just noticed another issue, gas sometimes flows out of the overflow valve/jet and onto the crankcase? SO.... float height issue as well?

I was also reading earlier, could this be a problem with the butterfly valves on the inside of the carb and how much they are open at idle? I cannot remember what i set the gap to between the valve and carb body/venturi, but it is the same on both sides.

yea the throttle cable is smoothly routed. but i noticed today, on the left cylinder I can burn my hand of the left muffler after just a minute or two of running it at idling at around 2200. on the right, is hot, would burn my hand after a few seconds of touching it. So, I guess my question is...

It's 722 A I'm both sides. They are a real pain finding parts for it

So with my CL350 it has always idled high. Compression, timing, and valves have all been checked. Carb is clean, and have been returned to semi stock, I think a 115 main. I am no expert and I was just curious at to what could be happening. I have the stock air filter, which may be dirty and I do...