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I'd subtract 10 hp from those numbers for a stock engine. Wouldn't want him to still see lower numbers after throwing a bunch of money at it...

A couple of examples. I don't know the sellers, buy at your own risk, etc etc... http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Honda-Starter-Block-Off-Plug-CB350-CL350-CB360-CL360-CB450-CL450-CB500T-MCS-013-/380711672273?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a42f19d1&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1...

There's a small bolt on the left side of the cam box, above the left cam cover. Remove it after starting the engine. You should have oil coming out of it. (edited exact location of oil pressure test port)

Don't waste your money on the cam bearing conversion. I race a stock engined CB350 and they work just fine as they are.

And what exactly did you adjust in there?

Take the bolt out..... Pry it off with a couple of larger screw drivers, taking care not to damage the seal in the cover....... If it's split, like the shifter linkage, spread it slightly with a flat screw driver, then pry it off...

The in and out is the same on my 350s. I think you're into pulling the right cover off and seeing what's up in there. Hopefully you have a manual handy? Tim

I think those are called Timesert's ( http://www.timesert.com/ ). I race a couple 350 twins, and get Helicoils installed when building the engines. Who knows how many times the plugs have been replaced over the past 40 yrs, and it's just not worth taking a risk of getting a head fully rebuilt...

I have their Tarozzi fork braces on my two CB350 race bikes, but they're both running CB550 triples(22-0014). Check the spec chart and do some measuring. Maybe something will work http://www.fastfromthepast.com/PDF/fork_brace_dimensions.pdf Tim

I would suggest doing the inexpensive mods shown in this thread to lessen the chance of leaks. It's an old bike. Shit can happen. Do your best to prevent future problems and ride! 8)

Like Pat mentioned above, clutch rod seal retainers are mandatory in our club(I like the washer welded on a tab better, but anything is better than nothing), but I too noticed that my shifter seal came loose in my race engine after Barber last fall. I machined an aluminum spacer to fit over the...

I've never really looked that closely. I'd check valve clearance if you haven't done so since the rebuild, and then maybe compression and leak down test(assuming the spark and fuel are in fact good). I'm not convinced it ran hot, unless you're measuring the temp, or comparing it to a...

#1 - I race a couple CB350 engines, one is basically stock, the other is at 362cc. I don't run oil coolers. I know racers who do, but they're putting out several more HPs than mine(I'm just over 40hp). If it's stalling at idle, maybe you have a carb adjustment issue, or vacuum leak, or something...

Looking for a front brake assembly or just the front drum for a Yamaha XS1(650) in good condition. Have one now on a race bike that the drum is oversize. I don't need the wheel or spokes. Thanks, TimV timv840 at gmail dot com

I don't remember chasing any We Todds. :) Do you go by another name? Re con rods: The only place I know to get bearings for those rods are from Capelletti(SP?) in Italy. They make all kinds of neat stuff for Honda twins. I'd still source another engine and hope the crank is in better...

Are you set on reusing that crank? If not, you're probably better off to find a spare engine and swap the complete crankshaft.

I'd be asking your local guys what they're running if they like them that much. I run 32s, but the engine is not even close to stock so would be useless info for your setup. I'd be selling/trading them to buy some VM30s. You'll have more luck getting jetting help for those. TimV

Yeah, that chain guide must be used too.

Hi, I'm new here and found your question while browsing. Did you make room in the cylinder head for the new tensioner? I've had to open up the slot(remove material) in the head where the tensioner moves back and forth. It normally is a tight fit with a new chain and this style tensioner, but it...