1972 Honda CL350 First Time Build
- Thread starter Dalovva
- Start date
timberwolffxdl
Been Around the Block
Dalovva said:My new Superflow Exhaust
On the mock up bike
OD same as stock
Stock- 28mm ID
2into1- 35.5 mm ID
At collector:
58mm ID
61mm OD
headers 4 lbs
Muffler 4lbs
Here is a pic of the difference in inside diameter
OD same as stock
Stock- 28mm ID
2into1- 35.5 mm ID
At collector:
58mm ID
61mm OD
headers 4 lbs
Muffler 4lbs
Stock Cb headers with stock mufflers. 4+4+6+6= 20 lbs
2-1 total weight 4+4= 8 lbs
I am going to say a 12 lb drop in body fat.
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Rob, I missed it... did you make these or have them made? Or were they available somewhere for purchase? I think something like this would look good on my son's bike
timberwolffxdl
Been Around the Block
Dalovva said:
thanks for the info. he looks like a reseller. I wonder where he got it.
King Browne
New Member
Gorgeous hub and brake drum. And the axle and spacer look brand new.
Thanks for posting the details of the rear sets. I think they're the best ones I've seen so far. Looking forward to seeing the left side.
Thanks for posting the details of the rear sets. I think they're the best ones I've seen so far. Looking forward to seeing the left side.
King Browne
New Member
What did you use for levers? I'm having a hard time finding a brake lever with a switch for a drum brake.
timberwolffxdl
Been Around the Block
Could you elaborate?xb33bsa said:
Dalovva
Been Around the Block
The brake lever is a Honda Factory brake lever.
But they have lots of different styles for sale on "Fast from the Past"
So is the adjustment kit and spring.
Ebay!!!!!!
I have seen numerous setups similar to this style on this site.
It will articulate with the movement of the bike.
There is alot more clearance in the second picture than it looks
So I dont see what the problem is. I guess if performance is effected I will find a new solution. Thats the fun of building something yourself.
But they have lots of different styles for sale on "Fast from the Past"
So is the adjustment kit and spring.
Ebay!!!!!!
I have seen numerous setups similar to this style on this site.
It will articulate with the movement of the bike.
There is alot more clearance in the second picture than it looks
So I dont see what the problem is. I guess if performance is effected I will find a new solution. Thats the fun of building something yourself.
eyhonda
Coast to Coast
There is always a debate on rear brake strategy of rod vs cable. With the rod scenario like yours, the brake foot pedal will move up and down as the swingarm moves up and down. You can easily see this by removing the shocks and just move the swingarm up and down then observe your foot pedal. With the cable version, the suspension travel will not influence the foot pedal. That is what xb33bsa was trying to say - if the shocks were really stiff, the pedal won't move.
King Browne
New Member
The stock set up has a rod, not cable, and the actuation point (the arm that tugs on the rod) is much closer to the swing arm pivot point so the relative distances don't change with swing arm travel. So the brake lever will not move up and down with compression of the rear end. Pretty sure Honda gave this some thought before they released the design to the public.
However, by moving frame-mounted rear sets farther back and away from the swing arm axle you will get assymetrical motion and the pedal will move when the rear end is compressed. In theory, if you went over a big bump it could drag the rear brake. In practice, I'm not sure it will be an issue. Worth unmounting the shocks and checking the full travel and brake influence before riding?
However, by moving frame-mounted rear sets farther back and away from the swing arm axle you will get assymetrical motion and the pedal will move when the rear end is compressed. In theory, if you went over a big bump it could drag the rear brake. In practice, I'm not sure it will be an issue. Worth unmounting the shocks and checking the full travel and brake influence before riding?
your bike looks awesome very clean build
the issue with the rear brake is not stopping power that should be fine
the issue is it is just the wrong way to do it.period.you could never sell a production bike with a rear brake like this
.if you were to try,ON PURPOSE, to come up with a SHITTY-ER way to hook up a brake i swear you could not,i defy anybody to hook up a brake in a worse manner , :-[ OK maybe use a bungi cord instead of a rod
people do it because they are either lazy or don't know any better
not being able to have the brake pedal return to the same position but instead having it move wildly on every bump will suck
without an upstop (which on this lashup is impossible because you will thren have bump activated braking :
),on the pedal you cannot adjust the pedal travel,the pedal will always have a ton of travel and as your shoes wear it will increase
plain and simple it is just a totally bastardized way to do it , especially when doing it right is sooo simple, really
and hey i am not picking on you ,you saw it done and copied what you saw...
rise above the spodes, hook it up right, your bike looks too good to be hobbled with such nonsense
the issue with the rear brake is not stopping power that should be fine
the issue is it is just the wrong way to do it.period.you could never sell a production bike with a rear brake like this
.if you were to try,ON PURPOSE, to come up with a SHITTY-ER way to hook up a brake i swear you could not,i defy anybody to hook up a brake in a worse manner , :-[ OK maybe use a bungi cord instead of a rod
people do it because they are either lazy or don't know any better
not being able to have the brake pedal return to the same position but instead having it move wildly on every bump will suck
without an upstop (which on this lashup is impossible because you will thren have bump activated braking :
),on the pedal you cannot adjust the pedal travel,the pedal will always have a ton of travel and as your shoes wear it will increaseplain and simple it is just a totally bastardized way to do it , especially when doing it right is sooo simple, really
and hey i am not picking on you ,you saw it done and copied what you saw...
rise above the spodes, hook it up right, your bike looks too good to be hobbled with such nonsense
wow, I want to apologize for bringing it up!
Once you get the machine ridable just PM me and let me know how you like the performance.
By the way, welcome to DTT.
xb33 you need to realize for some of us, this is a trial and error thing. We can't all be experts fresh from the womb.
Once you get the machine ridable just PM me and let me know how you like the performance.
By the way, welcome to DTT.
xb33 you need to realize for some of us, this is a trial and error thing. We can't all be experts fresh from the womb.
