1975 CB360 Freeze-dried Hell Ride

[trek97]

I can already hear her running.

 

[Patmanbbe]

Great looking bike. I really like how you tucked a rear fender in there. The rear sets look awesome. I also plan to use Hyabusa rearsets but have the easier job applying them as I have a hydraulic rear brake. The angle of the mount matches the slope of my frame almost perfectly as it does with your frame. Great work, cant wait to see more!

 

[irk miller]

Started wiring the bike, got the clutch and throttle cables installed. I'm at the point now, where I need to decide whether or not I should shit can the stock harness. It's bulky and barely fits the current configuration. It'll work, but tucking it all away is proving to be one hell of a task. I think a shorter throttle and clutch cable is probably on the future purchase list, too.

One thing that has been bugging me is the size and placement of the gauges above the smaller headlight.

They were looking bulky and awkward.

I'm considering going with the speedo mounted center, and getting a mini tach to go at 10 o'clock. I may forgo the tach altogether.

 

[Ellwood]

Like the speedo only... Only reason for the tach would be tuning or problem solving... Hopefully you won't need it. I do watch mine if I am wringing it out though.

 

[crazypj]

no
you are thinking of a brake that moves only one direction
if that was used in the direction of down pedal only then it would be very good because both ends are rising up to max leverage moving into the 90 degree range
but it is a shifter and ideally is nuetral (pun not intended)
if not at both ends then at least at the shift shaft end

you want 90 degrees at the shift shaft end so if he did as i said it is best
if the pedal cannot be at 90 so be it, but ideally it is as well
having the vertical lines parallel is not the important thing

I'm not thinking of a brake at all. The most efficient method to change up AND DOWN is when the levers are parallel, you get equal travel in both directions
Having the 'engine' end at a different angle means changing up or changing down is way harder than it needs to be. May seem OK on a test ride but you pretty soon find out it doesn't actually work and is probably the reason majority of people believe
cafe' bikes are uncomfortable

 

[xb33bsa]

I'm not thinking of a brake at all. The most efficient method to change up AND DOWN is when the levers are parallel, you get equal travel in both directions
Having the 'engine' end at a different angle means changing up or changing down is way harder than it needs to be. May seem OK on a test ride but you pretty soon find out it doesn't actually work and is probably the reason majority of people believe
cafe' bikes are uncomfortable

the layout you suggsted for him IS mechanically lopsided and does just what you say you dont want
it requires more foot travel in one direction than the other and has lopsided leverage

 

[crazypj]

What I suggested is exactly where it is now.
The 'arms' have to be as close to parallel as possible, the original picture had foot lever too high but the arms would have been parallel
I've been doing this stuff for a while and know what works and what doesn't (did you know you can run a C10L or C11G on parafin after it's warmed up on petrol?)

 

[xb33bsa]

lok at the drawing you made refresh your memory
what you suggested is that parallel actuation levers is more important than having the angle of moment at 90 degrees which it is not
the drawing you made is all out of whack and it has uneven travel and uneven leverage changing gear up to down
the MOST important thing is having a 90 angle of moment at the shifter shaft, having it(90 degrees angle of moment) on the pedal as well is ideal(but may not be obtainable because his pedal lacks adjustment on the actuation arm) and it just so happens that they are parallel when this happens but when you have a out of whack trapezoid like your drawing suggested well then you get uneven action

you see I actually have the experience in machine design as a master machinist and machine designer and was paid well to do it

 

[irk miller]

I hope we agree that the current shifter setup will work ;D.

I got the bike wired up and started test firing it. I have several conditions I've been working through. The push button starter doesn't work, so I've been starting it by jumping the terminals on the solenoid. I'm guessing this is indicative of a bad solenoid. There are some other wiring glitches, but nothing that can't be sorted out. Mainly, the brake light isn't responding to engaging the brake and the low beam won't come on. I think I might have burnt the low beam out. I also had some Dynatek coils that I tried to run, but they were 3 ohms, which I'm pretty sure won't cut it with this bike. I couldn't get it to start. So, I took the stock coils, which measure out at 4.3 ohms, and re-soldered the leads (the PO cut them as close to the units as he could) and the bike started right up.
Right now the motor wants to idle high and backfire like crazy. I set the timing, checked compression cold (125 left and 130 right) and adjusted the valves. I rechecked the timing. Now I'm going to recheck the valves. I suspect I may have adjusted the valves in the wrong position.

 

[xb33bsa]

I hope we agree that the current shifter setup will work ;D.

I got the bike wired up and started test firing it. I have several conditions I've been working through. The push button starter doesn't work, so I've been starting it by jumping the terminals on the solenoid. I'm guessing this is indicative of a bad solenoid. There are some other wiring glitches, but nothing that can't be sorted out. Mainly, the brake light isn't responding to engaging the brake and the low beam won't come on. I think I might have burnt the low beam out. I also had some Dynatek coils that I tried to run, but they were 3 ohms, which I'm pretty sure won't cut it with this bike. I couldn't get it to start. So, I took the stock coils, which measure out at 4.3 ohms, and re-soldered the leads (the PO cut them as close to the units as he could) and the bike started right up.
Right now the motor wants to idle high and backfire like crazy. I set the timing, checked compression (125 left and 130 right) and adjusted the valves. I rechecked the timing. Now I'm going to recheck the valves. I suspect I may have adjusted the valves in the wrong position.

ha yeah it will work
check for air leaks at the carb joints
if you can get it to run for a few seconds then spurt a quick shot of starter fluid at the clamp area of the carb boot at the head see if it changes engine tone/speed this will indicate or not a leak
be careful with the starter fluid keep you face away

 

[crazypj]

lok at the drawing you made refresh your memory
what you suggested is that parallel actuation levers is more important than having the angle of moment at 90 degrees which it is not
the drawing you made is all out of whack and it has uneven travel and uneven leverage changing gear up to down
the MOST important thing is having a 90 angle of moment at the shifter shaft, having it(90 degrees angle of moment) on the pedal as well is ideal(but may not be obtainable because his pedal lacks adjustment on the actuation arm) and it just so happens that they are parallel when this happens but when you have a out of whack trapezoid like your drawing suggested well then you get uneven action

you see I actually have the experience in machine design as a master machinist and machine designer and was paid well to do it

You may have experience of machine design but it seems you don't have much experience without carefully marked up drawings. The trapezoid is the original set up, (this is what you have) the parallelogram (this is what you want) is the correct set up. 90 degrees is a meaningless statement without a fixed reference point

 

[xb33bsa]

correct i mispoke on the trapezoid i meant paralelagram
90 degrees is the most efficient and only way to be equal, angle formed at the end, rod and pivot points all included, very simple it must to be 90 AT BOTH ends to have equal movements and leverage each way you cannot have equality with a paralellagram,that is not 90 degrees
if you cannot have 90 degrees at the foot pedal well then at least get it at the shift shaft end
you are simply wrong in thinking that as long as they are parallel that they can be less or more than 90 at the angle of moment and have equal action and equal leverage in each direction that was my only point
with a parallelagram one direction it loses leverage , one direction it gains,in travel as well
this is simple stuff

 

[crazypj]

Ah, you can afford to lose a little leverage changing down (or pressing down) but the angles will make changing up easier so less likely to miss-shift
The current set up is way better than the original one but is easier to change down than up.
You are right about rotating one spline on gear change shaft and use a shorter link, not sure if it will be possible though as one spline may move operating arm too far?
Would need some sort of fine adjustment or arm re-welded in a 'better' position
You may have noticed I'm just messing with ya, I've seen how quick you 'jump' in various threads ;D

 

[irk miller]

Took the bike on a few test runs. The cam chain is definitely making noise, but I have no idea what is normal or out of sync. I re-adjusted the valves, and it made it run better, but not perfect. It still has a rough idle, but not as bad as before. Starter fluid on the carb boots doesn't seem to change anything. Most of the back fire looks like its coming from the right cylinder. The bike tends to drag early in first then smooths out as it gains momentum. Second and third and fourth are much cleaner. I haven't run it in 5th or 6th yet. The clutch has also quit engaging, so I'll start checking into that issue. Hopefully, the issue is behind the sprocket cover and not with the clutch itself. Things are definitely settling and requiring tweaks here and there. But, it seems like the bike is closer to being road worthy.

 

[crazypj]

Almost certainly the operating mechanism, it can be a bit finicky to set up.
Make sure the operating arm under cover is down as far as possible, the return spring should have minimal extension

 

[linadsenoj]

They were looking bulky and awkward.

I'm considering going with the speedo mounted center, and getting a mini tach to go at 10 o'clock. I may forgo the tach altogether.

I Think Speedo only will give the cleanest and a centered look.

 

[Ellwood]

The coils on my cafe were drilled out and a small piece of copper solid house wire was pushed into the wire and then the sparkplug wire was pushed into it with some epoxy. Looks good and works. The stumble is more likely the mechanical advance kicking in.... Or points bounce.

 

[irk miller]

Almost certainly the operating mechanism, it can be a bit finicky to set up.
Make sure the operating arm under cover is down as far as possible, the return spring should have minimal extension

I can get it to engage with the adjustment screw on the cover, but it seems like it needs too much force to use the cable. The cable want to slide out of its housing and the return spring wants to remain sprung. Is it possible I am missing something? The ball bearing is in, but I'm not sure if anything is supposed to be behind the mechanism.

 

[crazypj]

There should be 3 ball bearings in the operating mechanism, (in a triangular cage)

 

[irk miller]

There should be 3 ball bearings in the operating mechanism, (in a triangular cage)

Damn it, that's what's missing. There's nothing to force it push as it turns. I can't find one to buy either. I have one from an XL175 but I think the diameter is smaller.